Frogspawn Coral questions...

[CMOS]

Howdy All,

I've had a 3-finger Frogspawn in my tank for almost 2 years, and since purchase it has sprouted at least 3 new "fingers." To make a long story short, in February I got a new job that resulted in me abusing my tank by means of zero water changes for almost 5 months. While the green hairy algae went nuts, etc., and the tank looked horrible, the Frogspawn kept on growing and generally doing well.

Fast forward to recently where I gave been well ahead of my water changes, due to some automation. The tank looks great now but the Frogspawn is just not as "happy" as it used to be. It is not as full, nor is it extending its tentacles like it used to - when the water was crappy.

Water tests as follow:
Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite = 0
Mg = 1470-1500
Ca = 520
Phos = 0 (on API kit)
PH = 7.8
Salinity = .024
Water source is a 5-stage RO/DI with TDS meter reading "000".

Any thoughts on what I need to do? Are there any specific additives that are absolutely necessary for this Coral?

For some recent history, go here: For a reef tank, what test kits are considered "a must"?



Thanks,
CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

How old is your lighting? Do you feed the tank?
Frogspawn Coral, Euphyllia divisa, LPS Coral Information and Coral Pictures

[CMOS]

How old is your lighting? Do you feed the tank?
Frogspawn Coral, Euphyllia divisa, LPS Coral Information and Coral Pictures

My 2 PC bulbs are about a year old, the MH is about 2 years old.

"Feeding the tank?" Forgive the ignorance but I'm assuming you're referring to specifically the corals. I just started, about 2 weeks ago, adding a small amount of Kent's PhytoPlex, but at a reduced dosage (~1 tsp/week) to what the directions state. Other than this, I have never added anything specifically for the corals.

Thoughts?

CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

IMO, your bulbs are on the way to old stage. PC should be replaced every 6-9 months, you will see the what I mean when you put in new ones. Metal Halides once a year. They lose their output, although we don't really see it because we see it degrade everyday, and can't tell. Might want to give that a shout. If you are already feeding Phyto, your in good shape, this will help.

[CMOS]

IMO, your bulbs are on the way to old stage. PC should be replaced every 6-9 months, you will see the what I mean when you put in new ones. Metal Halides once a year. They lose their output, although we don't really see it because we see it degrade everyday, and can't tell. Might want to give that a shout. If you are already feeding Phyto, your in good shape, this will help.

Fair enough. I'll replace the PC's, but have some questions on the light wavelength choices - there are a buttload of choices. IIRC, one PC is 10K/420 and the other is a 420/460.

Your thoughts on selection of new ones?

Also, right now I am only running the MH for 5 hours a day (10AM-Noon + 5PM-8PM). I am doing this, for now, as I fear BA and that nasty hairy algae will go crazy, as it did when I wasn't doing ANY water changes for that 5 month period.


CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

If your running PC for Actinics, then I'd run a 460n lamp. These are used for color rendering only as they don't add any real light to the tank. Running your main light (halide) for only 5 hours is probably a big deal to the coral right now, as they need alot of light. Most will run their lights for 8-12 hours. If you have your phosphates under control, and have a decent amount of snails in your system, I would not worry about the algea anymore, as it sounds as if your putting some strain on the coral.

[CMOS]

If your running PC for Actinics, then I'd run a 460n lamp. These are used for color rendering only as they don't add any real light to the tank. Running your main light (halide) for only 5 hours is probably a big deal to the coral right now, as they need alot of light. Most will run their lights for 8-12 hours. If you have your phosphates under control, and have a decent amount of snails in your system, I would not worry about the algea anymore, as it sounds as if your putting some strain on the coral.

You'd suggest both of the PC's to be 460's?



CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

You'd suggest both of the PC's to be 460's?



CMOS

Yes, if your running PC, just run them Actinic. Your running a MH bulb, no reason for you to run the PC's in 10k or other.

[CMOS]

Yes, if your running PC, just run them Actinic. Your running a MH bulb, no reason for you to run the PC's in 10k or other.

Very good.

As of yet, I don't have an Alkalinity test kit. Is this a fairly critical test for the health of such corals?

Thanks for all the help.

CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

Very good.

As of yet, I don't have an Alkalinity test kit. Is this a fairly critical test for the health of such corals?

Thanks for all the help.

CMOS

Yes, for a Reef tank ALK is a relavitvely critical test for the water conditions. Now truth be told, I don't test for it myseslf. Corals will normally tell you when there is something wrong with your water, I also have a 2-3" CC bed, that helps buffer.
http://www.americanaquariumproducts....=alkalinity#kh

[CMOS]

I read some things that indicated that high calcium (like my water) = low alkalinity. Correct?


CMOS

[Original Fin]

Yes, for a Reef tank ALK is a relavitvely critical test for the water conditions. Now truth be told, I don't test for it myseslf. Corals will normally tell you when there is something wrong with your water, I also have a 2-3" CC bed, that helps buffer.
http://www.americanaquariumproducts....=alkalinity#kh

+1

Folks that have been doing this for a while get to know a lot about their tanks water chemistry just by observing, but I would say it's a must for all newbies to at least test for Alk, ( and CA, mag, etc) in order to learn for themselves how dosing, or not dosing various supplements affects it.


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[chrisfont23]

Alkalinity and calcium go hand in hand. I usually tested for mine every two days until I started dosing a two part mix (c-balance). Anyhow...heres a good article on the chemistry of a reef http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

[CMOS]

Alkalinity and calcium go hand in hand. I usually tested for mine every two days until I started dosing a two part mix (c-balance). Anyhow...heres a good article on the chemistry of a reef http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

Chris, bad link. can you re-check it?

You guys are killing me: every time I feel like I'm getting up there on the learning curve, I get knocked down on my a$$ and am reminded that I don't know squat!


CMOS

[chrisfont23]

Sorry about that. Stupid IPAD ;)Chemistry And The Aquarium: Solving Calcium And Alkalinity Problems — Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine

[Original Fin]

Chris, bad link. can you re-check it?

You guys are killing me: every time I feel like I'm getting up there on the learning curve, I get knocked down on my a$$ and am reminded that I don't know squat!


CMOS

Yeah, I'd like to know if that feeling ever goes away too!


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[CMOS]

Any recommendations on a specific brand/model of Alkalinity test kit?


CMOS

[Original Fin]

Salifert, Elos, Red Sea Pro...


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[CMOS]

and yet another: What wavelength MH is suggested? 10K? 14K?



Thanks,
CMOS

[Reefing Madness]

I prefer 14k myself. The 10k lamps are alittle to much yellow light for me. But its all in your preference also. Its not a matter of which is better.