[eses]

I bought a book sometime ago, The Marine Reef Handbook by Robert J. Goldstein .. so far it has been a really good resource, but some I'm learning some things from it that are contradictory to what I've been told and read elsewhere.

Such as, in this book, it mentions feeding mushroom corals (anemones) bits of fish from time to time, and that they will move around if they don't like their placement. Is this true? I've tried on several occassions to feed my healthiest looking green and brown/gold mushroom anemones bits of shrimp and fish to see if they would eat anything, so far no go. Anyone do this with success? Is it required?

It also mentions you shouldn't put soft corals close together, as they will sting one another. Makes sense as they should compete for territory, but how important is this in a tank that is only going to have polyps of different varieties, xenia, and mushrooms? Will they stake territory, or actually drive rival soft corals away?

Also, so far I've been adding calcium (450ppm) and Iodine to the tank on a regular basis, as well as doing weekly water changes of about 10%. Should I be worried about adding any other trace elements? Is there something else I should be adding?

Thanks

[botp2k1]

Along with Ca, you should check your alk. I would skip the Iodine dosing and the mushroom feedings. Yes, mushrooms will up and move if they do not like where they are at. Mushrooms are also pretty toxic themselves.

[stevemc]

I agree with the above about the alk. You cant just add calcium without the carbonates(not at the same time). Also most mushrooms dont eat, but some do! I've got some that have three pronged fringes(frilly looking hairy mushrooms) and they eat very much. They are photosyntetic but they eat just like anenomes. If yours dont eat, dont feed them but provide them with sufficiant light. They can do fine with N-O florescent lighting. They like actinic. Steve

[eses]

Sorry, I forgot to add that I do keep my alkalinity within the proper levels. It has been something I haven't had to worry about with my tank, it has maintained proper alkalinity very easily.

Well. I feel like I'm on the right track anyway, thanks for your input.
Wes

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

All books that describe the current state of the art get old. That said, I agree with most of what you quote as being questionable

1. I've had soft corals kill each other. For example my green star polyps killed off my xenia by growing up to it, and them clearly irritating it until it eventiually withered away to nothing.

2. Mushrooms do move around in the tank, presumably to places that they like better. Some of mine also close up on chunks of food. I don't know if they ultimately get any nutrition from that or not.

3. The addition of various chemicals to tank is a debated field. I add a variety that most choose to ignore (F-, Br-, I-, Fe+++, Si(OH)4). To each his own.

[Firefish]

I would think IMO that if you're doing a 10% wc a week then you shouldn't have to add iodine, calc and other minerals since the salt you're using if fortified with these minerals...? When I do use minerals and other supplements (very seldom) I only use about 1/2 of the recomended dose. I have coraline covering 60% of my rock and glass, a thriving sand bed and very healthy and fast growing corals and I dont use anything except a 15-20% water change once a month. I know "to each their own" but I often wonder if poeple are doing more harm then good adding all these supplements...? With that being said...does anybody know anything about the supplement "Black Powder"

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Firefish:

<< I often wonder if poeple are doing more harm then good adding all these supplements...? >>

With the exception of iron that I intentionally add at above NSW levels to boost macroalgae growth, I don't add anything above NSW levels. With that as a backdrop, I see little chance for harm in adding things that are depleted.

[Firefish]

I agree, but there are alot of people out there who just dump bottle after bottle of "stuff" into their tank without knowing where their levels are. Like was said before, dont fix what aint broke, if it works for you...god bless ya.

[eses]

Thanks for your input. I do weekly water changes, ranging from 10-20% .. even at this level, I need to dose constantly with calcium or it gets used up quicker than the water changes put it back. I'm using Instant Ocean brand synthetic salt .. it alone does seem to keep my iodine levels high enough, unless I let the tank go 2 weeks and they drop drastically.

I guess instead of asking "what else should I dump in" I meant more, what else should I be testing for other than alk/Ca/ph/salinity/iodine? I want to know if I'm missing anything rather than assuming the weekly water changes are going to be enough, and at the same time, I don't want to spend tons of money on test kits that I'm only going to use once or twice and discover I have no need for.

[organicreefer]

even with weekly water changes,ime you need to add ca and buffers if you want those levels to stay optimum.tap/make-up water /inhabitants affect levels,depending what you keep ,you may need to add other trace elements as well.there is no right answer to youre question as every tank/situation is unique.

[Starmstr]

Weekly water changes you've got to be nuts. Here's a link to answer the questions ask. As for the water changes make sure you read
Water Changes in the Reef Aquarium, Troy Brightbill. Furthermore, it has been deminstrated that just by feeding our systems the appropriate amounts there is plenty of excess iodine.

[organicreefer]

Starmstr,
wheres the link?
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Furthermore, it has been deminstrated that just by feeding our systems the appropriate amounts there is plenty of excess iodine.
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wouldnt this depend on what you feed/keep
what if i had a tank full of dictyota,sargassum,lobophora,and no fish?what about stontium,iron ,molybdenum?
ill say it again every tank is unique find out what works for you

[SPasse]

Eses,

This is an area where different people that manage to keep successful reef tanks, have differing experiences.

What this seem to prove is that there are many variables related to:

1 Species need (Soft vs. Stony etc) This could also be generally be described as uptake from all of the various biological and chemical processes taking place in your tank.

2 Input from food sources.

3 Input from your makeup water.

4 Input from the dissolution of calcareous substrates.

5 Input from you water change regime.

Personally, I am rather a minimalist. In addition to 5 to 10% monthly water changes, I supplement CA and alkalinity, Iodide “experimentally” and Iron (To support the macro algae growth in my algae filter/ mud bed sump.

Regards,

Scott Passe

[reefhead]

I dont dose anything accept esv's B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System.

I also do water changes frequently to dilute the elements.

My sps/clam tank is 30g total water.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Starmstr:

<< Furthermore, it has been deminstrated that just by feeding our systems the appropriate amounts there is plenty of excess iodine. >>

Who showed that? It certainly wasn't Ron. As far as I know, he's never yet measured the iodide level in a tank.

Those of us who have measured I- levels have never seen NSW levels in any tank that wasn't supplemented.

[organicreefer]

eses,
genarally speaking i would say dont supplement unless you test.you need to keep track of the effects of youre additions .as long as youre testing,youll be fine.problems start when you dump stuff in without knowing where you are