[PerryinCA]

Mark ~ I am willing to bet that it isn't the lower temps that are contributing (although I tend to like the 79-80 idea), but the increased stability brought on by the chiller. Lets face it, changing things whether it be temp, Ca, buffer levels, lighting, ect...effect the growth for some time. Stability is the key to good growth over all in my experience. All the other things come secondary to that. If a coral can't adjust to its living conditions, it can't grow.

just my 20 pesos (adjusted at a 10 to 1 exchange).

-Perry

[organicreefer]

good one perry -i agree

[FISHme]

Yah [\[\on

[golfish]

Originally posted by PerryinCA
Mark ~ I am willing to bet that it isn't the lower temps that are contributing (although I tend to like the 79-80 idea), but the increased stability brought on by the chiller.

Well Perry, I have thought about that but the only thing that ruled it out was that my Medusa controller is such a POS, my temps still swing 3 degrees. Like I have stated earlier, my temps ran 80-84 with out the chiller but that was a max swing, most of the time I kept temps with in 3 degrees.

From the first day this thing had a 2 degrees swing easy (you can find threads on RC and Reefs). Since the heat has poured on its been over 3 degrees. I've replace the control borads on it two times with no luck.

Overall, temps are more stable during these super hot days like we've had in the past

Adding a little more info...Without the chiller I was seeing a temp swing of 2-4 degrees. These times were tough because I had to count on a lot of different kinds of fans, AC and open or closed windows. It was a lot of work to keep these temp in the 2-4 degree swing. With the chiller I'm able to keep temps lower and at a 2-3 degree swing with no extra work at all. Perry could be right, that small difference in temp swing could have been all my tank needed for me to see better growth rates.

[dgasmd]

Well, I read the entire thread, the articles, and a bit more on marine biology from a source or two.
My tank's baseline temp is 80F. goes up to 85-86 during the peek hours of the halide cycle. and back to 80 by the end of the night. Have a chiller, but have not put it in line. I am seriously reconsidering whether I will even keep it. We'll see next year at the peek of the summer since my set up has changed considerably now.

[mrok12]

My tanks peaks at 82.6 degrees on hot (above 90) days. I usually run 80-82 daytime ans 78-80 at night. I have 6 3inch fans blowing long ways in the hood and 2-4 inch blowing back to front. I have 1300 watts of MH too and a magdrive pump in the hood.


MROK12

[BillyBadazz]

Alright... i just have one quick problem/concern:
My average water temp is 85-87 degrees F
Is it a little too high? Even for a South-Pacific reef??
My lights aren't even that hot, I have (4) 75w PCs (including 2 actinics).
But I also have (3) RIO 2500 submersible pumps in the sumpwater as my returns (and one for my Reef Deviln Skimmer).
Is there any way to cool that tempurater down without installing any fans?
Or does anyone think that that temperature range is okay? I don't have any habitants yet so I wanna get this down first before I DO get any.

I hope I don't have to buy a chiller cuz those things suck up wattage and $$$$. Southern California is way tooo damn hot, and its already October too...

[stang69]

I now its a fan but Walmart sells the cheapo fans that clip on and you could put it on your sump. No noise should be heard with the doors closed if thats your consern. Also IME Rio's seem to run warmer than most pumps I have 2 mag 12's and have no heat problem with mine. But I live in the Pacific NW too


Jeff

[golfish]

Originally posted by BillyBadazz
Alright... i just have one quick problem/concern:
My average water temp is 85-87 degrees F
Is it a little too high?
...

I'd say your pushing it with these temps. I'd look into some fans first. Their a hec of a lot cheaper then a chiller.

[Ltspd]

Originally posted by stang69
I now its a fan but Walmart sells the cheapo fans that clip on and you could put it on your sump. No noise should be heard with the doors closed if thats your consern.

This works pretty well. I did just that over my sump this past summer. It kept the tank temp below 80 and without it was easing above 82. It will increase the evap rate on your tank.

The problem is that the fan will not last long, the salt laden air will shorten the life, so dont pay big bucks for one.

[golfish]

Paul,
How the hec are ya buddy? I sure wish you would visit more often.

For those of you who have not seen Paul's setup, its one of the best planned setups I have seen on the web. Oh the joy it must be to have a basement

[Ltspd]

Mark,
Guess you havent seen my posts in the for sale forum. I no longer have a active reef tank. That said let me explain:

My job sucks. I guess that wraps that up. Been very very slow, and I am having to once again make some life changing decesions. I am teetering on selling my house and scaling back, but have not as of yet. I am also on the verg of starting my own company, but due to some inter-connected circumatstances I am unable to break completly free of my existing job. Currently waiting on either a layoff or the business to fold up. Neither of which seems to be happening. Sounds like wishing on a bad thing but actually its good.

Now for the tank. Well I stopped and stood back and looked at the whole setup. Lets just say too dam@ complicted, and to costly to run. So, with some intense thought and plenty of time at work to design I am redoing things. I had the tank for sale, but I wont give it away, and no one wanted to give me beans for it. Couldnt replace it with a smaller tank for what I would have sold it for, so I am keeping it. Now, I no longer have the overflows, cross braces or perimeter bracing on the tank. Spent the last few evenings removing it, pc by pc. I will be going back with 1 overflow, and a dedicated closed loop. I will be going with perimeter bracing instead of cross braced. All this to suit a better thought out tank, that comsumes less elec but produces the same end results.

Few things I am doing:

1) CC airstoned skimmer. See Scuabadude's pictures. This IMO and from all I have read is the best. Low elec consumption, best results. I have the room to do this, most people dont. This is provided I stay where I currently live and dont sell.

2) going back to Iwasaki's, and only 2. Best bulbs overall, cheaper when its time to replace, last longer. Enough said. IMO more isnt always better.

3) NO DOLPHIN PUMPS. I wont even go here.

4) No longer using the basement for all the "extra" Too much elec and head loss to deal with. Worked great, but not worth it. I can and will engineer the same saftey precautions that made the basement appealing in the 1st place. I would like to say that behind my tank is the stairwell to my basement. This stairwell will be used for the skimmer and circ pumps, light panel, etc. (here again based on staying put)

5) Spending less time on the BB's. Saves me money

[organicreefer]

paul -curious-you said no dolphin pumps-did youre ampmasters crap out?

[golfish]

stop it, your killing me

1- what happen to the MyReef skimmer? To expensive to run?

2- I agree, the color isn't all that great but their great bulbs. I still use my 400 watter. I just replaced my 18 month old saki, I don't see a diff

3- Seal problems I guess?

4- Sounds good

5- lol, good point..

I hope everything works out buddy

[golfish]

Paul,
A question regarding your LM (LN?) electronic ballasts, Are they potted? do they get hot?

Mark

[Ltspd]

Potted? (potentionmeter) If you mean dimable then no.

Hot, not really. I could lay my hand on the ballast at any time and not get burnt. Much cooler than a conv ballast. Never cheched amp draw so I dont know savings if any.

I sold these. Will be using either MV or MH standard ballast to power Iwasaki's. The heat by product is not a issue for me since my elec panel is remote of the tank.

[Ltspd]

Originally posted by golfish

1- what happen to the MyReef skimmer? To expensive to run?


Still the best skimmer IMO for size to cost, and getting even better. I dont want to aruge the fact

I have the room to use the CC airstone. I have constructed (currently) the unit from acrylic so I can handle the problem of water level and airstone production easy. The bubble chamber is 4ft x 6in dia and the whole skimmer will be greater than 5ft tall. Not something most people would want to look at or listen to in there living room. Mine will be remote from the tank (stairwell) and out of common view. Whole skimmer will cost me less than 100 to make and will use about 40w's to operate. It will be in a testing phase for some time on a LR tank I have in the basement. ScubaDude can comment on its ability since he currently has one in his greenhouse.

2- I agree, the color isn't all that great but their great bulbs.

With actinics the color is good. A good friend of mine runs (3)400'wr's with (6) vho's and the coloration is great.
One of the things that was killing my HQI's was the temp glass. I lost approx 17-20% due to it straight out, then factor in the fact I didnt clean the glass often and lost even more. With the Iwasaki's, I dont HAVE to have the temp glass, but its still recomended.

3- Seal problems I guess?

Yes, one of several issues I have/had. Very poor design in a corrosive enviroment. You changed your seals, correct? You should understand what I am refering to. Might as well throw a couple nails in the tank, at least I can watch them rust Large Dia plumbing required is a PITA and counter cost effective in most peoples situation. Fair pumps, just not worth all the Hype IMO. Give them a few more years and time will tell.

I will tell you this, I am looking at (2) Blueline 1100's and Gen-x MAK 4. What I will cost me 13.90/month to run all 3. I get good flow at my head, and the pumps handle backpressure. They require 3/4 lines, much easier to plumb and deal with.


I received my layoff yesterday (whole company), which is what I have been wishing for. ...... I will be working on my own doing contract design, which is something I have been doing part time for a while now. Your thoughts and prayers will be appreciated, things may get rough for a while.

[golfish]

Paul,
The reason I asked about it was that maybe I would take it off your hands. I've been talking to Andy about building me a MR2.5 but if you don't want yours anymore maybe you would donate it to me for a fair price I would like to compare the two (ER and MyReef) Relax, I just wondered what happen to it, hence the question
what happen to the MyReef skimmer?

The reason I asked about the ballast is that I have been testing a new 400 watt e-ballast for Bob at ReefFanatic (picture below). Its a potted ballast, meaning its filled with some type of resin that makes it impossible to repair (I guess its kind of like a tar ballast) .. This sucker works great, fires all the bulbs, draws 3.6 amps but it gets real hot, hotter them my 400 watt PFO HQI's...

[Ltspd]

Mark, everything is sold.

I am not sure about the LN, the Aromat was potted and would only assume the same for the LN.

[tendar]

Good luck Paul it can be tough out there on your own but plenty of them make it and its about the only to become indepently wealthy unless your luck and win a lottery or something. Plus its a lot more fun doing it for your self than some one else and you can doit your way.