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how does everyone control nitrate?

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Old 10-31-2001, 12:15 PM   #21
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Bongobrian,
I posted a brief description of how to setup a sump under the topic Topic: Want to add more rock. Concequences??

Regards,
Kevin
PS: I would be happy to give more details if you need/want.
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Old 10-31-2001, 04:22 PM   #22
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Thanks KevinPo.

Hey Naser~ do you use sand for your substrate? what kind? and how deep? I'm starting to consider getting my crushed coral out of that tank and putting in a DSB to help absorb nutrients.
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Old 10-31-2001, 09:28 PM   #23
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Smile

I have the ecosystem miracle mud filter and I like it. It was pretty expensive. I only have 3 fish and 2 corals in my tank right now so it is hard to say how the nitrate levels will continue.
By the way does anyone know what the other 30% is?
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Old 10-31-2001, 11:38 PM   #24
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I am able to keep my Nitrates to <10ppm and believe me I clean filter sponges, and microbag weekly. I have a good skimmer that run all the time. I use Fastest kit to check on Nitrates.

For the people who say that nitrates are undetectible in there tank, well what can I say.

Barry
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Old 11-01-2001, 03:12 AM   #25
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toptank. i had one of those filter bags on my aquaticwarehouse sump. had alge problems even cleaning it once or twice a week. took it out. i now have no filter, one skimmer, some sand, and live rock. seems to work. alge has never been back. and im starting to feel you on that RTN. i placed my new vho set on my reef for 2 days. now my motipora capricornis is bleaching, dont know if ive lost her yet. and one other sps is half gone. they seem like there rebounding. i hope.
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Old 11-01-2001, 01:16 PM   #26
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adding new DSB and sump?

I think I want to switch to a DSB of either aragonite or south down sand. If I do, in fact, go ahead and do this, what is the best way for me to add the sand? I already have an established tank with lots of live rock and corals. I've heard it's best to add the new sand slowly, one inch at a time. How can I do this If I have live rock and corals that need to go back into the tank right away? Also thinking about trying a sump. If I end up moving, would it be safe to set up a new DSB and sump and add everything to the tank right away? or will this cause problems?
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Old 11-02-2001, 09:25 AM   #27
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attn LisaMarie

LisaMarie~ can I ask how much you paid for your ecosystem? my LFS is trying to sell one to me for $175 and they're telling me it's normally $300. Is that right? can anyone confirm that?
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Old 10-27-2005, 12:02 AM   #28
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first I will say this my first post,but I'm not new to saltwater.
that which follows will be my opinion through my experience in saltwater from working at a marine distributor here in the Midwest and a lps along with having over 600 gallons worth of reef and fish in my house.
I have a 110 gallon reef/fish tank.I don't do water changes. I don't use chemicals to reduce nitrate or phosphates.I believe in natural maintenance.in my experience if you start dumping chemicals in your tank you are asking for trouble and in this hobby this can be very costly.nitrate is the end of the natural cycle from ammonia.Ammonia come from decomposing fecal and organic matter(fish poop + dead material).so in saying that over feeding is the most common reason for tanks to turn.I read earlier in this thread that a guy feeds 2 times aday(are you nuts)you must have $1000's in your filters. I feed flake food(prime reef)for fish and filter feeders every 3 to 4 days sometimes longer, I also feed frozen(variety of several dif kinds)every 7 days or so.I never have had any nitrate (readable)0 ppm.
now a little further info I run 2-backpak 2 with remotes to a drain,turned off during feeding for 24 hours(timed relay)filstar xp3 can filter all sponges and bags removed filled with live rock crumbs.6-5 foot vho on ice cap ballast.2-175w mh on ice cap all lights changed out every 10 months.all lights run on lunar cycle set for equator.1 45w uv. I have over 450 lbs of live rock natural and created. and a 1/2 inch sand bed.7 to 10 fish depending on if I sell any at the time and a lot of coral soft and hard and an anemia the size of a basket ball.
so basically I keep my lights clean use ro/di water for top off, MINIMUM FEEDING,and all natural (as possible)have to add iodine calcium and such
but nothing for reduction of levels.also if you keep your phosphates and nitrates low and keep good lighting you will never have an algae problem so hopefully this will help
someone,sorry so long next post wont be so long.any ? just give a yell
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:38 PM   #29
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Welcome to Reefland. It's always good to have another person from the state of 'Misery'.

I avoid Nitrates by not overfeeding and making sure that my flow is sufficient so that uneaten food and fish waste is skimmed out. Additionally, I don't overload the bioload of my tanks.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:24 PM   #30
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Light stocking, do not over feed, weekly regular 20 to 30% water changes, and keepy your live rock "clean" Before i do a water change i blow water on the rock and sir things up in the tank a regualr "storm" and while all the detrius and waste are in suspension I then do the water change.
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Old 11-04-2005, 05:51 PM   #31
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wouldn't not doing water changes eventually "wear out" the water? Scientifically speaking everything breaksdown into something, until it is just basic organics. So wouldn't old water eventually saturate or breakdown?
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