New Sump Help

[SupaJSK]

I installed a new sump on my 20 gallon. I have a 3/4 inch bulkhead as the drain with a tee connector on the other side. The tee is open on the top and the bottom side drains into my sump via a 3/4 inch flexible tube. My return is powered by a mag 3 with a valve on it, connected to a 1/2 tube that splits into two and returns into the tank via two 1/2 inch bulkheads. Problem is, the tank doesnt drain fast enough when I turn up the pump all the way. Right now, it is about 1/2 the power and I would like to get more flow through the sump since it barely trickles right now to avoid overflow in the main tank. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.

[Reefland]

Is this drain behind a corner overflow? Are the teeth in it capable of handling the flow?

I installed a new sump on my 20 gallon. I have a 3/4 inch bulkhead as the drain with a tee connector on the other side. The tee is open on the top and the bottom side drains into my sump via a 3/4 inch flexible tube.

I can't picture what you are saying here. Can you elaborate on "The tee is open on the top"?

My return is powered by a mag 3 with a valve on it, connected to a 1/2 tube that splits into two and returns into the tank via two 1/2 inch bulkheads. Problem is, the tank doesnt drain fast enough when I turn up the pump all the way. Right now, it is about 1/2 the power and I would like to get more flow through the sump since it barely trickles right now to avoid overflow in the main tank. What am I doing wrong?

Do you have a standpipe in the drain bulkhead? I don't know the math used but it seems to me that the 3/4" drain would handle the flow from a MAG 3 easily. It has to be something restricting the flow in the drain. The 3/4" flex tube makes a sweep and not any drastic turns down to the sump correct?

Scott Z.

[SupaJSK]

I have attached a diagram of what the drain looks like. The two 1/2 inch returns are powered by a mag-3 which has a valve on it. There is a y-splitter that leads to the two 1/2in return bulkheads.

I do not have an overflow. What is a standpipe? There aren't any kinks in the tubing. Thanks.

[jedimaster]

Where is the water level on you diagram? is this work via gravity or syphon? Although syphon works by gravity but you get what I mean.

[jedimaster]

If you replace the t with an elbow and place a airline tube in the existing elbow to allow outside air in to balance out so the thing doesn't gurgle you should get much better flow.

[SupaJSK]

It is via gravity, but if i plug up the top, then it will be syphon and its too fast. But if the top is open and its gravity, then the drain is too slow.

Also, if I decide to do a syphon, and the power were to go out and the system starts back up, the syphon would be broken and the system wont drain fast until the syphon is made again. How do I solve that problem?

Thanks.

[Reefland]

Thanks for the diagram, it helps me understand what you have set-up.

Basically you have an external standpipe installed on your system which isn't utilizing an overflow of any kind. Try to completely cover the top of the T (you can use your hand temporarily but a cap would be used if it does work. Having the top completly open is allowing more air in the pipe than necessary and not creating any type of suction.

Cover the top up with something and crank your pump full throttle and let me know what happens.

Scott Z.

[Reefland]

Ok, you answered my question at the same time I was posting.

If it is covered, it keeps up right? Then try to partially cover it, leaving only enough room for a little air to seep through. Here is a page which shows how internal standpipes are capped with a small hole in the top allow some air to enter the tube as well:
http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/stand...e-einstein.htm

This is from R. Durso's web site.

If the power goes out, I would think it would restart automatically.

Scott Z.

[SupaJSK]

OK, i closed off the top of the TEE and drilled a small hole in it. I have to still manually start the siphon, it doesnt start up by itself. When I do, the water drains very fast. Also, the hole I drilled is very loud, it makes a gurgling sound. Is there a way to fix that?

Also, if I were to replace the flexible tube with a PVC pipe, would that make any difference?

Thanks.

Any other suggestions? What are some other designs I could try with how my tank is drilled? Thanks.

[PerryinCA]

Try making the whole just a tiny bit bigger at a time. I actually siliconed a 3-4 ft length of silicone tubing in the top, and ran that into an old vitamin jar filled with cotton as a "muffler". Worked great! The trick is to get the proper balance on the air. Using a small needle valve (they can be had for cheap with the airline hosing) you can easily change the amount of air getting through.

-Perry

[SupaJSK]

Great idea, thanks. I will try it tonight and let you know how it works out.