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  1. #1
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    Phosphate help.........

    What are the best ways to get rid of higher PO3???
    I do regular water changes, every 2 weeks, about 20%.
    What else can i do?
    Oh yyeah, i use water from a RO/Di???
    help!???

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    Mayor bongobrian's Avatar
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    Skunk- Step 1 is to find the source and eliminate or manage it. Most phosphate originates from either the water you're using or the other foods and products you are putting into the tank. Since you're using RO water, that's probably not the source, although you should probably test your RO water anyway just to be sure. Also, you may want to test the RO with salt mixed in, some low-grade salt mixes can contain phosphate. Overfeeding and overstocking can result in high phosphate. What type of food are you using? and is there any left over after you feed? are you using any other products such as buffers, chemicals, or foods? mix those into RO water and text for phosphate. What kind of sand and rock do you have in your tank? I think some types of sand out there contain phosphate and silicates. Step 2 is to find a method to manage the phosphate. I think a refugium is the best solution in this area. Dripping kalk is said to precipitate PO4, but I don't think it's proven. Lower the amount of uneaten organics in the tank if that's the problem. Use a filter media such a Phosphate sponge to absorb the PO4 but I don't recommend this for a long-term solution as it will get expensive. I swear by the refugium method because it is biological, natural, and very effective in my opinion. I can't say enough good things about it. HTH.
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    Moderator scubadude's Avatar
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    Re: Phosphate help.........

    Originally posted by Skunk Clown

    Oh yyeah, i use water from a RO/Di???
    help!???
    I think Brian has hit on everything here for ya, but I will say a test of your Phosphates coming out of the processed RO unit will tell you alot.

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    Well, heres my delima
    I am just a lowly employee at a LFS.
    The only tanks that dont have phos. are my Reef tanks.
    All my other systems do.
    I know for a fact that some is coming from The wet dry filters.
    Im sure phosphate dont come from there, but still.
    Also, in 2 of the systems there is no substrate at all, just the damned bioballs, in the other 3 systems, i have sand, not the fine stuff, but not crushed coral either.
    Each system is running a good protein skimmer.
    My 220 fish only, has 3 tangs, a wrasse, a lionfish, and a dog face puffer. They are only fed once a day. The other 124 has a huge puffer, and he eats crayfish. it also has a large lion in it.
    Friday, I will check my RO/DI units. The salt i use is instant ocean.
    I feed brine shrimp, frozen and live,Life Line Greens, and some mussels....
    I just started working at this store, and I want the water top notch for my customers, my animals and myself.
    I will stay on top of the water changes and do what i can to get this under control.
    How toxic/ bad is phosphates in fish only systems?
    Will live rock be beneficial at all in these systems?
    I am asking, because i have never really kept fish only systems, just reefs, and it has never been a consideration to think about?
    Thanks for the help and reading this long list of my problems.....

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    Mayor bongobrian's Avatar
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    What is the level of phosphate?
    Brian

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    It has also been stated on here that dripping Kalk will disapate (sp?) some phophates in SW aquariums. I did this and it did work to some level but Like stated above you also do need to find where it is coming from.

    HTH Jeff
    Hmmmmm what to put here???

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    Mayor bongobrian's Avatar
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    I think it probably does work, but I've heard it only precipitates the phosphate when you drip the kalk into a calcium reactor. Again, not sure if it's actually been proven or not.
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  8. #8
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    Originally posted by bongobrian
    What is the level of phosphate?
    Most of the tanks are my fish only systems. so i cant drip calk.... but my leverls have been 5.0 or higher. i am managing to get them down some, but as i am not the owner. he wants me to feed heavily 3 times a day or so, an wont let me do water changes more than about every 2 weeks. i have added phosguard, and it seems to be helping.
    Thanks guys!

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    KRB
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    I'm having a similar phosphate problem. After reading the above posts I have two questions: What is the "refugium method" and what is "phosguard"? Don't know if it's related, but I added 3 large snails Friday, and they were fine that day and dead the next morning (for sure). Can the phosphate sponge do that or do I have something else going on? This is frustrating!

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    Mayor bongobrian's Avatar
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    KRB-

    A refugium is a biological filter which also serves as a "refuge" or safe haven for plants and microorganisms to thrive. It's often used to promote the growth of macroalgea which is very beneficial to the tank. By promoting the growth of these beneficial algeas, it will discourage the growth of problem algea in the main tank. It's great for reducing nitrate and phosphate levels, and it also helps maintain the PH. There are many other benefits as well.

    I personally run an all-biological tank. The refugium, live rock, and live sand is the only source of filtration in my tank. I've had really good results with this method. Check out http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/

    Phosguard is a filter media you can purchase. It will temporarily remove phosphate from your water, but I recommend getting to the source of the problem.

    The death of your snails most likely is not related to phosphate. Snails are extremely sensitive to salinity changes and they require a long acclimation period. They are also sensitive to calcium levels. If you did not acclimate them long enough or if you have low calcium levels, those are the most common problems for snails.
    Brian

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