Sprung a LEAK

[EMS503]

My 75 gal. reef sprung a leak. Im not sure if a section of silicone let loose or the tank cracked. I am switching all fish, coral, LR, LS and as much water as I can to two 29 gal. tanks. Then I should be able to see what happened. When I am able to repair the tank if possible or purchase a new tank, I will have to add some new water and live sand. I have about 100lb of LR and had a 4" live sand bed which from what I can see I may be able to save two thirds of the sand, the rest is really full of junk. Will I have to cycle the tank over again???

If a silicone joint let loose should I ditch the tank or purchase a new tank??

Thanks John

[tendar]

Either way I would ditch the tank and get a new one. If it leaked once it could spring another leak some where else. If it is under warrenty talk to where you bought it and they should replace it.

You will go through some what of a cycle with stiring up all that sand.
If you have all the sand in the tanks with your corals and fish you will want to test amonia and nitirites every day till you get they set back up in a new tank. You could very well start cycling some with all the sand that that was down deeper being stired up.

[Casie]

Yikes John! Leaks are NO fun. =/

I'm with Tendar on this one. I know tooo many people that have re-siliconed a leak only to have it leak again a few months down the road.

Get those 29s up and running for your critters and corals. Even the cheapest biowheels will support them nicely for the time being.

Use a trashcan or ice chests to hold base rock and live sand. All it will need on it is an airstone (maybe a heater if the room is colder than 74 ish)

Now you can take your time and tank shop. =)

When you get the new tank make up some new water and fill 'er up! Add that live sand and base rock. I'd give it 3 days and test the water. You may have a minimal cycle... or a full blown one.

I feel for ya! I had to move all my critters to a 55 while I worked on my 4 year old 90 gallon. The whole project took 10 days, but I feel I got lucky and had almost no death. I didn't lose a single coral or fish, but some inverts didn't pull through. =/

Keep us posted on your progress!

[EMS503]

Took all your advice went and got a new tank.
My old tank was used as a FW tank first this one is a SW set up.
Are they building tanks different now the new one is much heavier and seems the glass is thicker or are tanks made for saltwater just sturdier? So far all I lost in the moves was one Red firefish, All the rest are fine. will have the new tank ready to fill with water by Thurs. or Friday. Will take my time before moving corals, fish & clams back in. Thanks for the response.

[tendar]

Slatwater and fresh water tanks are the same thing they just make them better or you got a better one than the one that started leaking.

Good Luck

[bongobrian]

I just had the same thing happen to me a couple of weeks ago. My lfs replaced the tank under warranty. I kept everything in a holding tank just as you are doing. The extra live rock and water that wouldn't fit in the 30 gal holding tank, I put in a large rubbermaid container with a powerhead to circulate and keep it oxygenated. After putting everything back in the new tank, I had absolutely no cycling going on. If you keep most of your water, lr, and sand you should be fine. If you put new sand and lr in the new one, you may see a small spike. Just make sure the lr is cured.. I'm sure you knew that. ;)

[EMS503]

Okay guy's went out and purchased a new 75 gal. with a corner overflow the old tank had a hang on overflow. I will be setting it up tommorow. I will be placing some of the live sand from the previous tank and about 20 gallons of the old tank water, I can't place all the old sand and water as it is in two different tanks one holding the fish and coral with some liverock. I have already made up saltwater R/O to make up the difference in the needed water to fill the tank. I will be watching it to see if it cycles before moving fish and coral over.

I have a few questions I have a UV sterilizer that was hooked up to the return pump and then went straight into the tank. I have been advised I should run this seperatley so I can slow the flow down to assist in destroying parasites I plan on using a small PH direct to the UV and return the water to the sump, any ideas on what type and size PH I should use? (not Rio's had bad luck with them)

Also have a pH problem low, unable to maintain above 7.9, I forget who on this site recommended using Arm & Hammer washing soda but what would be the amount to start off using this to raise my pH. When the system is completly hooked up I will have about 90-100 gals. of water in my system, To start I will be only hooking into the sump and not the refugium as I don't know if this tank will have to cycle again.

Still don't know why the tank sprung a leak Floor and stand are all level. Thanks for the help

John

[casey]

I use a Aqua clear powerhead 301 on my uv and return its water to the sump where it is returned to the tank seems to work for me.

[MEC]

Hey John,, I have used the Arm & Hammer baking soda before. I gennerally used it at a teaspoon for 55 gallons, and check levals before adding more. Its basically the same as adding reef buffer, verry simmilar materials just the soda is soooo much cheaper.....Mike

[EMS503]

Okay the tank is up and running for the third full day.
Here are my levels pH 8.1, temp. 80.1, salinity 1.023, calcium 435,
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, phosphates 0.03 & Alk. 13.1
I adde the washing soda brought my pH from 7.7 to 8.1
I think it raised my Alk. some, added Calcium chloride to raise the calcium this should lower the alk. some.
How long should I wait to be sure this tank is'nt going to cycle again.
My wife is getting impatient she wants to decorate the room

Thanks John

[reefeze]

I had the same problem, 75g tank also. The problem was most of my pods and DSB died.

Everythings great now though...

I now how it goes... really sorry for you...

RE