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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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OPinions
I had a terrible disaster in Novemeber!! My beloved tank just crashed. I looked over the data and can see some flaws now.
The temp was ranging 84-85 while I was away, the ph 7.8-7.9 (ca reactor was on) I have since d/cd this. When Ireturned I had a massive bleaching event. This are the changes I have made. Nixed the 400 watt MH (2) Keeping the 2/250 watt mh Adding 440 watts VHO. Running a nielsen reactor Dosing reef calcium and home buffer. I noted that from the onset to keep the KH up meant I had to use more co2 than I wanted. I also noticed that the ca never got above 375 with the reactor alone. I think they are good for some just not for me. I am pleased with the nielsen reactor and it performnce and effect on PH and ca. I am going to keep a some sps toward the top of the tank and lps on the bottom. Please critique. I would rather find the hole now than have another tank crash. MROK
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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What do you guess think about running a flossing pad at the water inlet of the sump? Activated carbon?
MROK
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#3 |
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super-reefer
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SAN DIEGO, CA
Posts: 1,908
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i had lots of problems when i had 400 and a calcuim reactor.. could have been me but calcuim was too low no matter how high the bubble count was. alge seemed to live on the increased co2... i know hove the 250's and dose calcuim through products instead of reactor.. everything seems much happier.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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NASER!!
The same was true in my system!! The PH was fine at 8.2 then I started the reactor. Inoticen an imediate decline and no matter what I did the Calcium never got up past 375-380 with the reactor. I noted that the DKH was ok but the PH and CA suffered. I added a homemade nielsen reactor to combat this. I prefer now to use Reef advantage or I may try bionic along with the KALK reactor for all top off water. I am sticking with the 250's and vho for now as well. I added 12 hermits today and a new cucumber. I am also doing more aggressive water changes. 3 gallons daily in the am. It only take 5 minutes! That is part of my plan to not let organics accumulate and drop the ph and alk. Salt is cheaper than a lost tank. I think this will aid in keeping things on the right path. MROK
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#5 |
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Mayor
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Mike, I am so sorry to hear you had this happen. You know I have never had a reactor but have found the best calcium and buffer I have ever used. Tropic marin Bio-Calcium. I am using 4 tsp. every 5 days and it is keeping my calcium at 450ppm and alk. at 11.2dKh. Ph stays around 8.2-ish. I tried this starting about a month ago and the 180 has never been this stable. Clams have easily a new ring of shell growth and all the sps are growing better than ever. What I like about this stuff is you don't need to use 2 part anything. Of course I still drip kalk. 24/7.
Take care. my 180 ecosystem sps/clam tank: http://berlinmethod.com/suet/ my 120 ecosystem sps tank: http://suetruett.homestead.com/home.html |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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Thanks Sue,
I am rebuiilding!! I am using reef advantage right now, Maybe when I run out I will try the Bio calcium.. I also have a home made nielsen reactor running. What is your lighting on that 180? Mike
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#7 |
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super-reefer
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SAN DIEGO, CA
Posts: 1,908
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sue i use the same stuff... love it....
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#8 |
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Mayor
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Mike, the lighting is the 3 250w 65k iwasaki's, I never made the change. I guess the fact I have good color and all is one reason I didn't.
Neil, how long have you been using the Bio-Calcium?? Thats awesome you use it and love it too. I am more than sold on this stuff. my 180 ecosystem sps/clam tank: http://berlinmethod.com/suet/ my 120 ecosystem sps tank: http://suetruett.homestead.com/home.html |
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#9 |
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super-reefer
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SAN DIEGO, CA
Posts: 1,908
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about a year... i too am using three 250 iwasaki's.. debating on changing to 250 hqi's? not sure though..
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#10 |
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Gallery Team
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 794
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I used the Tropic Main product a few years ago. Found it to be an excellent product also, but most of their goods are.
Mike, what problem do you think the 400,s caused? Just the heat?
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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I think the heat and the fact that I was blasting the coral with 1300 watts total for 12 hours. I noted that the bleaching started at the corals closest to the lights also and seemed to work down! All the corals on the top parts of the rock were dead when I got home and the ones at the bottom had just started to bleach. I really dont know though. I just want to play it safe and gp withj the 250's. I may add one 250 in the future i am not sure.
MROK
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#12 |
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super-reefer
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SAN DIEGO, CA
Posts: 1,908
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nothing crashed like xenia? how hot was it when they bleached.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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84.4 with light off 2 hours before I got home
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#14 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,031
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mrok12
I am just curious; was anyone in the home to verify that the lights didn't stick on, meaning that the timer quit working with the lights on? It seems to me that something more drastic must have happened to your corals over the course of this week since they were living and thriving under this same lighting set-up for a while before they died; right?
I understand that you are satisfied with your new lighting arrangement, I am just curious what caused the problem. Regards, |
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#15 |
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super-reefer
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: SAN DIEGO, CA
Posts: 1,908
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same here.. your scaring me.. im supposed to go to hawaii soon for a week.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Van Buren, MI
Posts: 1,052
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I had my father in law on the case!! Evap was good with a more than nneded water supply with auto topoff. The lights were off when I got home. I talked with a local expert and he said with the dimensions of the tank and the lighting that was runnning thst even a slight variation in the ambient without correction would cause quick over heating. He recommended that if I want to use many lights to 1) Buy a chiler or 2) use just three 250's or 2) 400's. The 250's seem to burn a little cooler. I may add another 250 at a later date. I am still going to use the VHO's and that with the MH gices a total of 940 watts. He also said that the VHO put out 30% less heat than do the MH per watt. He own the tropicorium so I am trusting this is good info. COuld of been the heat, might of been the lights, I really don't know but something wasn't right!!
MROK
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