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Upgrading to new Tank |
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#1 |
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Citizen
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Upgrading to new Tank
I was able to find a great deal on a used cube tank that I've been meaning to upgrade to. Got a 60 gallon cube, 2ft x 2ft x2ft, the stand and hood which need to be refinished for 80 bucks. Tank is glass and hasn't been drilled. Not sure what it was used for, fresh or salt, but it looked like it hadn't been used for a while. So although, my 20 gallon has been pretty successful lately, I'm going to gradually move everythnig over to this tank and sell off the 20 (been 2.5 years now). Now I can get metal halide...thinking about leaving the top open and have a pendant hanging from the ceiling.
Anyways, couple of questions as I start thinking about how to set the plumbing up. Will deal with lighting later. 1) Since there aren't any holes or overflows in the tank, I'm gonna have to build all that myself. I really want to have 20x - 25x turnover in my tank. I want to put a single, relatively large overflow in the center back of the tank with a durso standpipe. What size drains and returns should I consider? I would also really like to have a closed loop. What size should that be, how many drains and how many returns? 2) As for sump, because of the cube figuration of the stand, and I want everyhting to fit underneath, I was thinking of putting two ten gallon glass tanks underneath. One where the overflow drains into and will also house the skimmer and a second one for the refugium. Not sure how I'll connect these two yet. Or, I may just have to get a custom one built, but I'd like to avoid that. Which skimmer do you guys recommend for me? Size is going to be the limiting factor here. 3) As for pumps, I'd like to have a more powerful pump powering the closed loop and a another one for the return to the tank. That way I won't have too high of a flow rate through the sumps...Any suggestions here? 4) I was considering trying to drill the tank myself. I have never drilled glass before and was reading some other posts on this board and it looks pretty simple. How do I know if the tank is tempered or not? I have read that diamond head drill bits make it much easier...Any other pointers here? Thanks everyone. You guys are the reason my 20 has been a success! I'll post with pics and updates on my progress on the cube as it comes along. |
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#2 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Posts: 223
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Re: Upgrading to new Tank
1) Well, 25x turnover would be 1500gph. If you are going to have a closed loop, you have to decide what percentage of the 1500 you are going to flow through the sump and what percentage you are going to flow through the closed loop. If you wanted to split it evenly and go 750gph through the sump and 750 through the loop I would suggest a 1" drain bulkhead with a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" standpipe. I would also suggest going with no smaller than a 3/4" return line. If you can go bigger on the return line, do it. That way you get more flow with less velocity. You could reduce it down with your plumbing if you decided you wanted more velocity.
2) If you are going to use 2 separate tanks for the sump and refugium, you could try to find a tank that is 4 to 6 in. taller than the other for the refugium. Than you could drill the side of the tank for a bulkhead and let it overflow back to the sump as I have. I used a 20 long for my sump and a 22 gal for my refugium. Just drilled a hole for a 3/4" bulkhead and that was that. You could also consider useing a larger tank for your sump and making your refugium part of you sump. That's my 2 cents but I'm sure there are others here that can give you more insight. Good luck! ![]()
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Scott __________ "But of the reeftank of 125 gallons, thou shalt not tap on it: for in the day that thou tappeth thereof thou shalt surely die." . Last edited by reddhaus; 05-11-2003 at 08:40 PM. |
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#3 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ottawa
Posts: 8
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If the tank is used, I'd fill it with fw and test it for copper first... Just in case
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CAT "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas Alva Edison (1847-1931) |
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#4 |
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Citizen
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How do I test for copper? Is this a kit I can get from a LFS? If it does have copper, what can I do to remove it? Thanks.
Also, does anyone have any schematics or listing of parts that I would need to build the overflow box, drains and returns? Including this like bulkheads, flexible pvc, valves (ball or gate), unions, etc...? Thanks. |
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#5 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ottawa
Posts: 8
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Your lfs might do a copper test for you if they have a test kit. I'd let the water sit in the tank for a few days to see if anything leaches out before testing. If there is copper it's supposed to be really tough to get rid of, tho' I'd guess that it's mostly absorbed into the silicone. The tank could still be used for f.o. but I just read a post where most of the corals and snails placed in a newly set-up 'used' tank died within a couple of days - the culprit was copper.
I use the lifereef overflow so I can't help with diy. Good luck, hopefully someone else has some plans for you.
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CAT "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas Alva Edison (1847-1931) |
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#6 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,135
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Hi SupaJSK!
Ah yes, always interesting planning and performing an upgrade. Congratulations!
Some good advice posted here. Definately test for copper, it is possible that it was used in the tank before and if so and you didn't know, your corals will not be your friend. For sumps, definately consider the flow rate you push through the sump. If it is too great, you will get bubbles from the return and will not be able to rid them, especially if your using a smaller box for your sump. On overflows, there are some drawings and a lot of threads in the DIY forum, perform a search for Overflow. We have to have a lot of trust in an external of internal overflow so make sure to do your research and make the right purchases. You will sleep easier at night knowing you spent some extra dollars but your safe. During your search most will return external boxes but I know there are some threads for internal boxes as well. Within those threads, I think you can find some good information regarding the plumbing too. Regards and good luck, Scott Z. |
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#7 |
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Citizen
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Thanks for the advice.
So basically if my tank has copper, I'm kinda screwed... no way to cure it?My next question relates to positioning of the returns. The returns from the sump will come out of the overflow box, but where should i put them? closer to the top or to the middle? there is also gonna be a closed loop with 2 drains and 2 returns. where in the tank should i place these? just planning on starting the drilling soon. thanks. |
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#8 |
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Citizen
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OK, so i found out no coper was used. So I'm ok there.
Next question...relates to positioning of the returns. The returns from the sump will come out of the overflow box, but where should i put them? closer to the top or to the middle? there is also gonna be a closed loop with 2 drains and 2 returns. where in the tank should i place these? just planning on starting the drilling soon. Thanks. |
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#9 |
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Mayor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 972
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Supa,
For future reference -- Polyfilter (made by Poly Bio) is an EXCELLENT way to remove copper or other metals or medication from any tank. It will also remove disolved organics. I keep some in my overflow box almost all the time. Put it in and watch it turn colors -- blue for copper, rust for iron, gunky brownish-green for organics. The stuff is fabulous and is pretty common in LFSs and online. It's a little pricey, but WELL worth it, IMO. Rebecca |
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