[patsfan1130]

Ok, I have been cycling my tank for 3 weeks with LR (nothing else in tank) and testing my water daily. 2 days ago my reading were....

ammonia 0.25
nitrite 0.2
nitrate 5.0
PH 8.2
SG 1.023

I just tested my water this morning and my readings are

ammonia 1.0
nitrite 0.2
nitrate 5.0

why is my ammonia going up? I use RO/DI water only

The really strange thing is I just tested some of my RO/DI water (made it about 48 hours ago) for ammonia and it is at 1.0????? I dont get it

Anyone have any thoughts


Mark

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by patsfan1130

Ok, I have been cycling my tank for 3 weeks with LR (nothing else in tank) and testing my water daily. 2 days ago my reading were....

ammonia 0.25
nitrite 0.2
nitrate 5.0
PH 8.2
SG 1.023

I just tested my water this morning and my readings are

ammonia 1.0
nitrite 0.2
nitrate 5.0

why is my ammonia going up? I use RO/DI water only

The really strange thing is I just tested some of my RO/DI water (made it about 48 hours ago) for ammonia and it is at 1.0????? I dont get it

Anyone have any thoughts


Mark

It is possible to have a spike in ammonia three weeks into the cycle if you started with uncured live rock. It doesn't often happen but it is possible that something may have been dying inside the live rock and then finally died. That's one possible explanation. Another possible explanation is that the test kit is faulty.

If you are getting a reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia on R.O./D.I. water then something is wrong with the test kit or something is wrong with your R.O./D.I. filter. Assuming the test kit is accurate, test the tapwater before it goes through your R.O./D.I. filter and then again after it passes through your filter and see what you get.

Are you using municipal water or well water? Do you know if the water district treats with chloramines? Not that that would explain your readings, just wondering.

[patsfan1130]

Originally Posted by Ninong

It is possible to have a spike in ammonia three weeks into the cycle if you started with uncured live rock. It doesn't often happen but it is possible that something may have been dying inside the live rock and then finally died. That's one possible explanation. Another possible explanation is that the test kit is faulty.

If you are getting a reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia on R.O./D.I. water then something is wrong with the test kit or something is wrong with your R.O./D.I. filter. Assuming the test kit is accurate, test the tapwater before it goes through your R.O./D.I. filter and then again after it passes through your filter and see what you get.

Are you using municipal water or well water? Do you know if the water district treats with chloramines? Not that that would explain your readings, just wondering.

Ok, I just tested my tap water and I get a reading of 1.0. I then tested water straight from my RO/DI unit & I get a reading of 0. My first test of RO water was from my container. I use clean 5 gallon gas cans to store my water. Do you think I am getting the ammonia from something leaching into the water from the containers? I have used these type of containers for years and never had a problem.

Oh..And I use municipal water

[Ninong]

If you are getting a reading of zero ammonia for the product R.O./D.I. water and then later on getting a reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia for the same water after storage in a container, the container is the problem unless someone added something to the water in the container. I would change containers.

Most people use Rubbermaid Brute containers in either white, gray or yellow. I have two 20-gal white Rubbermaid Brute containers and one 32-gal gray Rubbermaid Brute container. The Rubbermaid Commercial Products Division advised us that we should use only their Brute containers and only in those three colors for storage of R.O./D.I. water because they comply with USDA meat & poultry equipment specs.

[patsfan1130]

Originally Posted by Ninong

If you are getting a reading of zero ammonia for the product R.O./D.I. water and then later on getting a reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia for the same water after storage in a container, the container is the problem unless someone added something to the water in the container. I would change containers.

Most people use Rubbermaid Brute containers in either white, gray or yellow. I have two 20-gal white Rubbermaid Brute containers and one 32-gal gray Rubbermaid Brute container. The Rubbermaid Commercial Products Division advised us that we should use only their Brute containers and only in those three colors for storage of R.O./D.I. water because they comply with USDA meat & poultry equipment specs.

Just picked up a 32g brute (damn they arent cheap)

Do you recommend a water change? or should I ride out the cycle?

Thanks,

Mark

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by patsfan1130

Just picked up a 32g brute (damn they arent cheap)

Do you recommend a water change? or should I ride out the cycle?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark,

Which color Brute did you get? Just checking in case you need to return it.

I would not do a water change on your tank at this time. A reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia is nothing serious in a tank with just live rock. I would let it balance itself out and maybe do a water change whenever you're ready but not just because of this ammonia reading.

[patsfan1130]

Originally Posted by Ninong

Mark,

Which color Brute did you get? Just checking in case you need to return it.

I would not do a water change on your tank at this time. A reading of 1.0 ppm total ammonia is nothing serious in a tank with just live rock. I would let it balance itself out and maybe do a water change whenever you're ready but not just because of this ammonia reading.

I got the grey brute. Even got the cool wheel attachment for the bottom.

Do you think this is why my tank is taking longer than expected to cycle? I know 3 weeks is not long but it's the longest any of my tanks have ever gone before.

Again...Thank you


Mark

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by patsfan1130

I got the grey brute. Even got the cool wheel attachment for the bottom.

Do you think this is why my tank is taking longer than expected to cycle? I know 3 weeks is not long but it's the longest any of my tanks have ever gone before.

Again...Thank you


Mark

The cool wheel attachment cost you a lot more than the container itself. No wonder you said it was expensive.

The length of time it takes to complete the initial cycle using uncured live rock can vary from three weeks to six weeks. By initial cycle, I mean that both ammonia and nitrite have peaked and fallen to the point where ammonia is undetectable and nitrite is almost undetectable. I completed the initial cycle in my tank in three days but I used fully cured live rock. Oh, and I cheated by running it for a week with just Southdown sand and a piece of raw fish to get the bacteria going before my fully cured live rock arrived.

[patsfan1130]

Originally Posted by Ninong

The cool wheel attachment cost you a lot more than the container itself. No wonder you said it was expensive.

The length of time it takes to complete the initial cycle using uncured live rock can vary from three weeks to six weeks. By initial cycle, I mean that both ammonia and nitrite have peaked and fallen to the point where ammonia is undetectable and nitrite is almost undetectable. I completed the initial cycle in my tank in three days but I used fully cured live rock. Oh, and I cheated by running it for a week with just Southdown sand and a piece of raw fish to get the bacteria going before my fully cured live rock arrived.

My LFS told me the rock was fully cured when I bought it. Apparently it wasnt