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Filtration Idea??? |
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#1 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Filtration Idea???
I need your opinions guys and gals - All input is welcomed.
![]() I have a new 125G wet/dry system coming in on Friday for my 90G tank. I know the bio-balls have been problems with nitrates, so I am brainstorming an idea here to avoid that process: I mainly bought this system so I could hide all the equipment below (skimmer, heater, canisters, etc.). Good price! Here is the real question: Can I use my 2 Fluval 404's in the sump rather than using bio-balls? I only have 65lbs of live rock in the main tank, so it wouldn't be enough to be considered effective filtration on its own. Secondly, what could I use in place of the bio-ball compartment? The canisters do a pretty good job, but ugly in the main tank. What do you all think of this process, and is it doable? TIA Mike |
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#2 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Don't be shy now..I can take it.
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#3 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Visalia, california
Posts: 45
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fluvals schmoovals
You just upgraded, don't keep the same filtration you just spent money to get rid of. You can run more activated carbon and more mechanical filtration in the sump you just bought than both of those fluvals put together. Plus canisters are way too much maintenance. The sump gets rid of all that taking apart and putting back together and getting water on the floor and being yelled at by my, er... your wife. Dump those bioballs and you've got a great place for a NICE in-sump skimmer like a Berlin Classic or whatever else you can get. Have fun.
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#4 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Thanks Clint. So if i get rid of the bio-balls and use activated carbon, would this go in the place of where the bio-balls would go? This is new to me, so I am a little confused. I have always used canisters, but I am trying to keep up with the trend of the sump idea. Thanks
Mike |
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#5 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Jupiter, FL
Posts: 37
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I would keep the bioballs. I use them, and I think the paranoia about them causing excess nitrates is a bit excessive, especially for a FO tank. I even use a prefilter sponge in my overflow and a filter pad above the bioballs, both of which are supposed to be nitrate factories. The fact is that most fish aren't all that sensitive to nitrates (compared to corals and inverts, that is) and as long as you can keep them to 50 or lower, you'll be fine.
I do a 10% water change every two weeks. When I do the water change, I also rinse out both filter sponges. This keeps my nitrates at a pretty steady 20-30. And that's with no refugium and no protein skimmer. I plan on getting an Urchin skimmer to put in the sump section of my wet/dry (not the bioballs compartment, but next to the return pump), and that should cut down the nitrates even more, I think. Just my $0.02.
__________________
29-gallon tank, wet/dry filter, 2100 Rio for return, 3 145-160 gph powerheads for circulation, 25 lbs. LR, crushed coral substrate, 1 T-12 20-watt magtinic, 1 T-12 20-watt actinic white, 1 T-12 20-watt nutri-grow, 1 T-12 20-watt aquasun, 1 lawnmower blenny |
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#6 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Thanks Tussinhead. I have had my Fluvals setup for about 8 months now, and my Nitrates have been 0. Currently, I have a Niger Trigger, Foxface Lo, Carpenter Wrasse, and a couple of Damsels. I do have a couple of inverts though: 1 Huge Hermit crab, and one Condy Anenome. It is a FO tank, but I am wanting to keep a few things in there that I guess have higher needs than fish.
Would this system with bio-balls still be ideal for the mentioned inverts above? I just want to make sure before I start setting it up on Friday. Thanks as always. Mike |
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#7 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Visalia, california
Posts: 45
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bio balls
I'm sure Tussin has success with his setup. I just assumed that you had already made up your mind to get rid of the bio balls already so I was giving you some options. I have nothing against bio balls as long as they are not submerged which causes the layering bacteria to slough to the bottom of the sump for lack of oxygen and rot there which can produce Nitrate. Put that carbon anywhere it can get optimal water flow and if you do decide to get rid of the balls any protein skimmer will do nicely.
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#8 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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I will definitely be using my skimmer on the wet/dry. I have heard people say bio-balls are terrible, and I have heard them say they are great. I suppose it is all in experience, or heresay. I just wanted to explore some options before taking the plunge into this with the bio-balls just in case there was a better alternative.
Mike |
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#9 | |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Visalia, california
Posts: 45
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Quote:
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#10 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,044
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I'm going to jump in here to make sure your getting a good all-around view.
The bio-balls are OK to use in Fish-Only tanks as they will help support bacteria colonies to work on ammonia and nitrite, however they will not do anything with nitrate and if not properly and frequently cleaned, could cause additional nitrate. For fish-only systems, they can be used in the absence of Liverock to help with the ammonia and nitrite conversion, although liverock is natural and more effective. Fish-only systems can run with higher levels of nitrates (it's not as toxic to fish as it is corals and other invertebrate) that coral reef systems can. With that said, I would still remove the bio-balls from this system and the canister filters. You have enough liverock, especially if your tank is mature, to support a fish only system and don't have to worry about the media adding to any nitrate that will exist. |
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#11 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Thanks Scott. After researching wet/dry options, I have noticed that some people use live rock rubble in place of the bio-balls. Would this be effective as well? I do have live rock in my tank, but it is only 60lbs. or so. I just want to make sure I keep my nitrates down to a minimum. The canisters have done a pretty good job thus far. Thanks
Mike |
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#12 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Visalia, california
Posts: 45
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live rock
The more surface area you have for that bacteria to grow the more bio-load you can put in the tank. Live rock will work but I agree that you have enough live rock for a fish only tank. If I had enough money to go out and buy live rock I'd put it in the tank itself. More to look at. But I have seen a lot of liverock in sumps before.
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#13 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Ok. I will take your advice and use the bio-balls since you think I have enough live rock. If Nitrate does become a problem later, I can always change it. Thanks guys.
Mike |
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#14 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,044
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I totally disagree with that decision, go ahead and remove the bio-balls now. They are not going to add any benefit to you and could cause problems so why risk it?
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#15 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Sounds reasonable. Should I use anything in the place of the bio-balls, or just leave it empty? I am new to the wet/dry arena, and I just want to make sure that this setup will be transparent to my friends I have in the tank currently.
Thanks, Mike |
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#16 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,044
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I would just leave it empty. Down the road if you wanted to add some additional liverock in this area you could if it were to be totally submerged but beyond that, leave it empty.
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#17 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ.
Posts: 106
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Thank you Scott. I will do just that.
Mike |
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