[Franklin]

I need to know what wattage your UV lamp is so that I can look up the dwell time to get a dose high enough to kill protozoa???

I actually have two 40W pond UV filters. If necesary I may be able to run one directly into the other, assuming I can figure out a strong enough pump.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by Franklin

I actually have two 40W pond UV filters. If necesary I may be able to run one directly into the other, assuming I can figure out a strong enough pump.

You will only need one of them. A single 40w UV lamp is sufficient for a 200-gal saltwater aquarium. The maximum flow rate that will deliver 90,000 uw/cm^2 is 967 gph. That means that a slower flow rate will deliver even more radiation. The 90,000uw/cm^2 is what you need to achieve to kill off things like Cryptocaryon irritans.

Even if your UV lamp is not as efficient as an Aqua-Ultraviolet and even if your lamp is 7 or 8 months old, you should have more than enough capacity to kill off any protozoa that pass through if you limit the flow to less than 500 gph. That would turn over your tank volume more than 10 times per hour. This is a two-edged sword in that you want to slow down the flow to increase the dwell time so that you deliver a stronger dose of radiation on each pass through the tube but at the same time you want to turn over your tank volume as much as reasonably possible so that you can get most of the protozoa to pass through the filter before they can find a host fish to latch onto. And even if something survives one pass through the tube, they won't survive repeated passes.

UV sizing chart: http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/sizing.html

[Franklin]

The freshwater doesnt seem to be doing too much. Would it make sense to do a short copper bath (all I have to do it in is a five gallon bucket, and I would hate to leave the fish in there all night) If that could work, how much copper should I use? The instructions say 1 tsp/ 4g. Could I do more for a short period of time?

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by Franklin

The freshwater doesnt seem to be doing too much. Would it make sense to do a short copper bath (all I have to do it in is a five gallon bucket, and I would hate to leave the fish in there all night) If that could work, how much copper should I use? The instructions say 1 tsp/ 4g. Could I do more for a short period of time?

I wouldn't use copper for two reasons:

(1) Most authorities that I respect say that it has no effect whatsoever on Brooklynella hostilis.

(2) Copper is damaging to the reproductive system and the immune system of any fish. Some seem to tolerate it better than others but it has a detrimental, cumulative effect on all fish. Scott Michael in one of his latest books says that even though he used to use copper, he no longer thinks it is a worthwhile option because of the many unwanted side effects.

Robert Fenner suggests formalin as a treatment:


Treatment:

All new fishes should be quarantined, isolated in a separate system for a good two weeks before exposing them to established systems. As regards wild-collected Clownfishes and Seahorses this is a particular concern. In almost all cases a preventative pH-adjusted freshwater baths (Fenner 1989, 97, 98) in process of acclimation and placing of new fishes in quarantine eliminates this and other external parasitic problems. If Brooklynella expresses itself on your fishes in quarantine or a main-display setting it is necessary to act quickly to effect a cure by chemical treatment. As mentioned earlier, copper is largely ineffective in treating for this protozoan. The most efficacious cure is made by using formalin solution in either dips/baths (in freshwater or marine) or more dangerously, in administering the formalin to a system (with no invertebrates, algae, live rock present). Stock solutions of formalin (formaldehyde) are generally about 37% composition, and can be used as dips/baths of one cc. per gallon. Baths should extend for a minimum of fifteen minutes, perhaps as long as thirty... with you present (lest the animal/s need to be removed due to stress) and mechanical aeration (bubblers, airstones) added to the bath. http://wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm

[Franklin]

I only suggest the copper because there is a possibility that I have mis-diagnosed the disease, and I have copper at the moment, and no formaldahide. The fresh water isnt working well and I am wondering how much time the fish has. It may be at the point where anything that has a chance of working is worth a try despite drawbacks.

[Ninong]

I think we can rule out marine ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) based on your description. That leaves us with either Brooklynella hostilis or Amyloodinium ocellatum. Since it's affecting a Maroon Clownfish and since they are especially vulnerable to this particular parasite, I think it's a reasonably good bet that this is what you have. If it's really A. ocellatum, chances of recovery at this point are slim.

Another problem you have is that even if you successfully treat the fish with formalin or anything else, you still run the considerable risk that it will be immediately reinfected once you return it to the aquarium.

[Franklin]

I really appreciate all of your help on this one. Thanks alot