[Steven Pro]

By dormant, I am guessing they are referring to the tomont/cyst stage of the disease, although the term dormant commonly leads to confusion.

[Triggers]

LOL,,,ya,,i know i'm confused reading that article..

[The R/C Man]

Since I have never had Ick in any of my tanks in the 20 years I have been keeping them do you guys have a good article or can explain the process from begining to end?

[Triggers]

Greg - that's some damn good luck or good practices or bit of both..

here is a good link that provides a nice summary pretty much:
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...marineich.html

I believe Steve has a write-up as well.

[The R/C Man]

Thanks for the link!

I think a bit of both.

[Steven Pro]

Here is mine, http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php

[Samper]

Quick question for you.

I wanna set up a Q tank for corals. For lighting I'm gonna go with 2 Lights of America fixtures with 2 100w 65k bulbs above it. I have a 30 long, extra heaters, powerheads and a skimmer. I'd like to have a healthy established tank but how does one accomplish this having to drain it and possibly medicate it at times? Would a tank like this not be more stressful for newly acquired specimens?

It also seems like a seperate fish Q tank would be in order if someone wanted to truly do this the right way since most fish medications contain copper. I try to select the right livestock and what not but I want to have an added measure of security because I'm getting to the point that if I was to have a problem it could be very expensive to replace some things.

I'm having a problem with my hammer right now cause some caulerpa got tangled up in it and it would be awesome to have a place to take it to so that I could possibly limit a spread of the infection it now has. This is what made me consider setting it up.

[The R/C Man]

I believe that the lighting for you coral Q tank should match the main tanks lighting as closely as possible. This would help to reduce stress during acclimation from one to the other. For SPS it would limit the chance of bleaching. Just some thoughts.

[Barry N.]

I would urge aquarists to quarantine everything added to their tanks that could possibly carry a pathogen or pest, or that needs extra care: fishes, motile invertebrates, corals, live rock, live sand, etc. Basically, anything that is wet should be quarantined.

Steven,

So glad that you posted this As you know I give a power point presentation to different club/organization through out the US and one of my slides in on quarantining. I am a strong beleiver of this and also in our "Recommended Acclimation" sheet that we send out with every order, we express quarantine

I ask people why they don't, and most of the replies I get are, "I can not keep one set up all the time or it takes too long". You and I both know that this is not the case as you don't have to have it set up all the time. Can be set up within 15- 20 minutes and doesn't take much space.

Just my thoughts.

[The R/C Man]

Regaurding pathogens: do you guys believe that a quarentine tank should have a UV sterilizer as comon practice?

[Steven Pro]

Originally Posted by The R/C Man

Regaurding pathogens: do you guys believe that a quarentine tank should have a UV sterilizer as comon practice?

Not really. The most common problems are parasitic and UV's are not terribly effective in practice at dealing with those.

[peachykeen]

ok you made me do it, qt set up just in case, boyfriend going to kill me, another tank in house,lol -- corals go qt as well before going in the main cause if so im going to be grounded for going to buy more lights today

[smpolyp]

I would like to back up the idea that Q tanks aren't just for Crytp.
UV's can oxidize some types of medications.
stability on Q tanks is an issue for some aquarist.
Commercial treatment is different.