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Setting up QT for bad case of ICH

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Old 10-15-2005, 08:35 AM   #1
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Setting up QT for bad case of ICH

Hola --

I'm sorry to plague everyone with all of our repeated "newbie" questions, but we have them and figure this is one of the best places to find answers!

I need set a QT ASAP. We've had an outbreak of ich; and, no , we have never used a QT before. I understand now why they are so important. My husband is out of town (he's usually the one who deals with the tank), so I'm trying to do this on my own. I want to make sure I get it right!

I have done a bit of research on various websites and books to determine the best method for eradicating the ICH. I was planning on using the hyposalinity method in the QT, but, when I got up this morning, my sailfin tang looked horrible and the coral beauty was dead.

A water change was performed on Thursday night and we installed a UV Filter. Our tank is a 55 gallon (which, yes, I now know this will be too small for our Emperor Angel when he grows up). With the water, we added "Marine-Max" bacteria/anti-oxidants to it (at the recommendation of our lfs). My husband tested the water the night before, and these were the results:
pH 7.8 ppm
Nitrite 0.00 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
Ammonia 0.25 ppm

I can't lower the salinity of our display tank, or add copper, because we have quite a bit of live rock, as well as various inverts.

I'm VERY concerned about our fish and want to get them well as soon as possible. So, now that you know the situation, here are my questions:

(1) Should I go with a copper treatment in the QT, as the ICH is so bad on the sailfin? Will it work faster than the hyposalinity method?

(2) Can I put all of my fish in the QT? I'm planning on using our old 25 gal for the QT -- the fish that would be going in are 2 (small) chromis, 1 Sailfin Tang, and 1 Juvenile Emperor Angel. Would it be safe to put them all in? I was planning on putting some fake plants or coffee mugs in the QT to provide places to hide.

(3) Since we have not had a QT before, how long do I have to cycle it before I can add the fish? We have 2 filters (the kind that hang on the back); I can move one of them to the QT without hurting our display tank. If I use that filter, add in some of the water from our display tank, will this allow me to put the fish in the QT today???????

(4) I have heard mixed messages about FW dips; what's your opinion? Should I do them on the Sailfin since he is soooo bad? Or, at this point, would it stress him out more?

(5) And, one last question, can you mix two methods of treatment? Could I lower the salinity of the QT AND add copper (regulating both, of course)?

Thank you for all of your help!

~~Rachel

Last edited by curtis_rachel; 10-15-2005 at 08:47 AM. Reason: added more info
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Old 10-15-2005, 12:14 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis_rachel
Hola --

I'm sorry to plague everyone with all of our repeated "newbie" questions, but we have them and figure this is one of the best places to find answers!
Glad you trust our advice.

Quote:
I need set a QT ASAP. We've had an outbreak of ich; and, no , we have never used a QT before. I understand now why they are so important. My husband is out of town (he's usually the one who deals with the tank), so I'm trying to do this on my own. I want to make sure I get it right!
It is good practice to use one before you get to this point.

Quote:
I have done a bit of research on various websites and books to determine the best method for eradicating the ICH. I was planning on using the hyposalinity method in the QT, but, when I got up this morning, my sailfin tang looked horrible and the coral beauty was dead.
It usually attacks pretty fast although I would be surprised if the ICH was the cause of death of the beauty.

Quote:
A water change was performed on Thursday night and we installed a UV Filter. Our tank is a 55 gallon (which, yes, I now know this will be too small for our Emperor Angel when he grows up). With the water, we added "Marine-Max" bacteria/anti-oxidants to it (at the recommendation of our lfs). My husband tested the water the night before, and these were the results:
pH 7.8 ppm
Nitrite 0.00 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
Ammonia 0.25 ppm

I can't lower the salinity of our display tank, or add copper, because we have quite a bit of live rock, as well as various inverts.
Still concerned about the ammonia here, this is undoutedly your problem.

Quote:
(1)
Quote:
Should I go with a copper treatment in the QT, as the ICH is so bad on the sailfin? Will it work faster than the hyposalinity method?
I would go with the hypo method, not a fan of medications.

Quote:
(2)
Quote:
Can I put all of my fish in the QT? I'm planning on using our old 25 gal for the QT -- the fish that would be going in are 2 (small) chromis, 1 Sailfin Tang, and 1 Juvenile Emperor Angel. Would it be safe to put them all in? I was planning on putting some fake plants or coffee mugs in the QT to provide places to hide.
I don't think you have any choice but to Q them all. Adding some items to give them places to hide is a good idea.

Quote:
(3)
Quote:
Since we have not had a QT before, how long do I have to cycle it before I can add the fish? We have 2 filters (the kind that hang on the back); I can move one of them to the QT without hurting our display tank. If I use that filter, add in some of the water from our display tank, will this allow me to put the fish in the QT today???????
You need to get the new tank setup with some existing water from your display and the filter. Doing this, once the pH, temp and salinity are right you can add the fish. Make the salinity the same as your display now and then start lowering over the course of a couple of days. You will need to be prepared to perform some water changes in the Q tank since this will be your only form of nutrient export.

Quote:
(4)
Quote:
I have heard mixed messages about FW dips; what's your opinion? Should I do them on the Sailfin since he is soooo bad? Or, at this point, would it stress him out more?
Just stick with quarantining the fish, a think an additional dip would be stressful on an already stressed fish. I guess you could give it a quick dip on the move though.

Quote:
(5)
Quote:
And, one last question, can you mix two methods of treatment? Could I lower the salinity of the QT AND add copper (regulating both, of course)?
I would just stick with the hypo method myself.
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Old 10-15-2005, 12:26 PM   #3
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Thank you for the advice; when I got home this morning (went shopping for QT supplies), the Sailfin was dead too. I'm starting the set up of the QT tank and then adding the Emperor and the Chromis.

I guess we rushed things too much with the set up of this tank. . . sucks -- I feel so bad for those fish.
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Old 10-15-2005, 12:45 PM   #4
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You main focus with the main tank should be that traceable amount of ammonia. There so be no detectable ammonia in the tank at all, it is the most fatal.
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Old 10-15-2005, 03:34 PM   #5
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Ok -- I'll work on that! As far as the ICH -- someone on another aquarium website suggested putting all of our live rock and inverts in our smaller tank .. . and then treat our remaining fish in the big tank. What do you guys think of that? In addition to our rock, I'd need to move a flame scallop, a purple urchin, a coral banded shrimp, snails, and an assortment of crabs.
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Old 10-15-2005, 04:01 PM   #6
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No I would go with the Q Tank. If for some reason the hypo doesn't work then you will need to resort to other means, such as copper, and you never want to use that in your display even if it is void of inverts. Definitely move the fish and work on the ammonia in the display.
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Old 10-15-2005, 06:01 PM   #7
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Sounds good -- thank you so much for all of your help!
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