[Nikki]

Just read the post 'Out of control hair algae' and I could have written the smae thing :-( It si everywhere and the only things clean are my skimmer powerheads and the Eheim input/output from maintenance. I have one clown and 4 perppermint shrimp (thought these guys were supposed to eat algae?). I have live rock with some wonderfully neat macroalgaes growing on it and I am afraid the hair algae will smother them out.

So the questions, i saw someone mention phosphate and am wondering if there is a reliable test out there for this? I saw Scott's article that mentions that some are organic and some inorganic so is it even worth it to test for these? Also someone listed some inputs and outputs of phosphates. For one I may be overfeeding as I have increased the food for the shrimp, is this necessary or should I let them fend for themselves? is this possibly why they are not eating the algae in the first place because their bellies are full? Someone mentioned an output of turkey basting .... huh?

In addition someoneat the store said not to start water changes for 4-5 months as we are trying to set up an environment adn the water changes will inhibit this. Was this a totally wrong way to steer me, because I was doing weekly changes and the hair algae started after I stopped (although it was quite a while afer stopping). Of course I haven't stopped cold turkey as when I do a vacuum I need to replace that water.

Thanks in advance,
Nikki

[CSeaSee]

I've never heard of not doing a water change, even at the start of a tank...unless it was the 1920's and people had to cart their own saltwater from the ocean. Personally, whoever told you that want full of it. If you have massive hair algae problems, you need to do some BIG water changes (30-45%) to get rid of nutrients that have built up. Make sure you are using RO/DI water to make up your new stuff. If you haven't done a WC yet, there are some methods to combat the hair algae directly, as well, such as
-reducing the photoperiod, and covering the tank with dark cloth as well to make sure that no light gets it.
-turn off the pumps, use an old toothbrush to scrub off the hair algae, and then siphon the suspended stuff out, or get a mechanical filter and suck it out. Rinse the pads of the algae immediately. Repeat as necessary.
-herbivores, like emerald crabs or large snails
-more protein skimming, or more efficient protein skimming
-activated charcoal
-If you have substrate, vacuum parts of it
-keep your hands out of the tank as much as possible!
-kalkwasser will precipitate out phosphate
There are probably more ideas as well. Remember, the algae incorporates nutrients into its structure, so if you can remove the algae, you remove the nutrients. Good luck!

[Fish R.Ph.]

Originally Posted by Nikki

So the questions, i saw someone mention phosphate and am wondering if there is a reliable test out there for this? I saw Scott's article that mentions that some are organic and some inorganic so is it even worth it to test for these?

Hi Nikki, sorry to hear about your problem. Not an expert on Phosphate tests, but since the hair algae is probably consuming the phosphate, you may get a low reading, even though you may truly have a phosphate problem. Salifert makes a phophate test. Do you use tap water or have an RO unit? Your problem is excessive nutrients, as Scott's excellent article speaks about. It may be worthwhile testing your source water if it is tap water.

Originally Posted by Nikki

Also someone listed some inputs and outputs of phosphates. For one I may be overfeeding as I have increased the food for the shrimp, is this necessary or should I let them fend for themselves?

How much & how often are you feeding? And what are you feeding? I've read they can get by on 2-3 feedings per week (meaty/frozen foods).

Originally Posted by Nikki

In addition someoneat the store said not to start water changes for 4-5 months as we are trying to set up an environment adn the water changes will inhibit this.

I'd get back on schedule with your weekly water changes.

Best wishes. I'm sure you will get things back under control in due time.

-Jason

[cichlidfort]

Are you using tap water or distilled water. If your using your tap water, chances are it has lots of phosphates in it and thats why you are getting excessive, unwanted hair algae.

[Nikki]

All,

Thanks for the input. i am feeding frozen formula 2 x times a day, very small amount (like 1/5 of the pellet shape). I am starting water changes again and we will see how it goes, I think it will make a difference and I will manually remove as much as I can although it is tough :-)

Thanks,
Nikki

[The R/C Man]

Hi Nikki!

What brand of salt are you using and how are you mixing it?

[newtothis]

[newtothis]

Oops, I sent message to myself!! the phone rang so pushed send to fast, sorry

[Reefland]

What happened most likely is that when the rock was "washed" in hot water, all of the beneficial bacteria was killed and other life on the rock. When it was put back into the tank the dieoff turned into nutrients and the reduction in bacteria didn;t leave enough to consume it.

Water changes using RO water would be your best option, in addition to maybe adding another piece or two of good quality, cured liverock.

[newtothis]

thankyou Scott. what would help clean up the excess nutrients faster?
also how do you delete a thread from here?

[Reefland]

Nothing is going to clean up the nutrients quicker than diluting them with water changes and trying to rebuild your bacteria colonies to process them. A good protein skimmer is the only mechanical device that will help you remove nutrients.

[Reefland]

Oh and if you need a thread deleted feel free to use the "Report" button or contact myself or one of the moderators.