|

|
advice..is ich over? |
|
||||||
|
|
#1 |
|
Citizen
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Monroe, Louisiana,USA
Posts: 187
|
Howdy all. I had a bad case of ich last week. I've treated with Para-Guard for the past 6 days. My hippo tang had distinct white spots that are now gone, but he has a white, opaque film on him. My 3 clowns were infected although I could not see the spots. My Coral beauty seems untouched.
After 6 days, they are (except c.beauty) all scratching their mouths on rock and sand. The clowns are staying in one spot with their gills going rapid looking very anxious. The hippo scratches its mouth on rock. Do you still think they have ich or is this a possible reaction to the para guard? The angel still seems fine. Should I get more para guard or try something else? thanks for any info. appreciate it |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,009
|
Hi tech1,
I am not sure what Para-Guard is. If I were you, I would remoe the fish to quarantine and treat with hyposalinity. As an alternative, you can try to feed the fish with finely minced garlic cloves mixed with their food. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Citizen
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Monroe, Louisiana,USA
Posts: 187
|
Para Guard is made by SEACHEM, it suppose to be safe for all saltwater life. But I don't know alot about this med.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Governor
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Denver co, USA
Posts: 1,004
|
I agree with Scott, you should only use meds in a quarantine tank. Never in the display. JMO
Martin
__________________
VTEC SI |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Citizen
|
It sounds like the fish definitely still have ich. Get them out and treat them the right way. Unfortunately there are no proven treatments for ich that are reef-safe.
__________________
If you can't change the world, change history- TRT |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Council
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Denville, NJ
Posts: 395
|
Would hypo-salinity be the only sure method of ridding the fish if ich? Would using a copper based medication speed up the process? I'd like to be certain the parasites will not be transferred to the display tank but am getting anxious to move the fish in.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Citizen
|
Copper, hyposalinity, and tank transfer (repeatedly moving the fish to a sterile tank) are all methods proven to rid the fish of ich. You shouldn't combine them though. If you want to use hyposalinity or copper choose one or the other.
We all get anxious to move fish into the main tank, but you have to resist the temptation. If you don't carry out the full treatment and just quit when signs are no longer present there is still a good chance that you're introducing parasites into the tank, which defeats the whole purpose and you've just wasted a lot of time. At that point things get much harder to deal with too.
__________________
If you can't change the world, change history- TRT |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Council
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Denville, NJ
Posts: 395
|
Greenbean, thanks for the response. I've removed the fish from my display tank for several months and therefore confident that the parasite no longer exists in the display tank. I want to continue to ensure that it doesn't get introduced and will be quarantining all new inhabitants. I'm aware that by treating with hyposalinity for 6 weeks will ensure that the ich parasite in all it's forms will be destroyed. My question is, if I use a copper based medication or some other, does this provide me with the same level of comfort that the parasite, in all it's forms, is destroyed??
Despite my anxiety, I have no intention of moving my pair of perculas in until I'm certain the ich parasite is eradicated, I'm just hoping there is an alternative to the 6-8 weeks hyposalinity process. Thanks for your help. |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Citizen
|
Sorry, I guess I just misunderstood the original question.
Unfortunately copper isn't much quicker than hypo. You're still looking at about 4-6 weeks of treatment. Also, if the copper concentration falls below the recommended level at any point in the treatment it is recommended that the treatment period start all over. Using copper also requires constant testing and adjustment of levels to keep the concentration in the effective range without overdosing and killing the fish. For most cases hyposalinity is the best option. Another option is the tank transfer method. You can read a bit about it and the other methods in this article by Steven Pro: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
__________________
If you can't change the world, change history- TRT |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Mayor
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 663
|
Unless you have taken extreme measures to ensure your fish have been sterilized of ich, there will always be a lingering dormant population in the tank. As long as your fish are healthy, then they will be fine, and will be able to fight off minor infections. Stirring the substrate and creating an enormous cloud will tend to re-introduce the ich to the water column, and could potentially re-infect your fish. If everything's normal, your fish should be fine. If it suddenly becomes sick, it is usually an indication that something's amiss (like negligent husbandry).
__________________
Carl Just tell your wife that having a tank teaches you all sorts of new DIY skills...which will save lots of money around the house...so you can buy more stuff for your tank...so you can learn more skills...
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Council
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Denville, NJ
Posts: 395
|
It's funny how this topic bounces back and forth. I could probably research some of the old threads, even one or two I started to get the full answer, but I thought it would be quicker and easier to pick the brains of my fellow fish lovers. I appreciate everyone's input and have come to the conclusion that hyposalinity is my best option, fortunately I've already begun the process.
CSeaSee, postings about a year ago directed me to this link: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2003/mini1.htm Everything I read there and according to others here, ich can be completely eradicated, but it does take an extremely diligent effort. After losing several fish, with no identifiable factors im husbandry or otherwise, I'm willing to follow the advise closely. |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Citizen
|
Rjs, your interpretation of the article is correct. Ich is not always present in a tank and it does not go dormant. A tank that has been fishless for 6 weeks or more will not have it and all that needs to be done to keep it out of the tank is to QT all new inhabitants (a good practice anyway) and treat all new fish as though they have it.
__________________
If you can't change the world, change history- TRT |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,009
|
The quarantine practice ensures that any new fish you add to your tank does not introduce the parasite again thus filling your display with it. Always remember that even though you can't see it, it might be present. Therefore, quarantine is the best advice.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| my 29 any advice | stonepilot | Reef Aquariums | 5 | 02-28-2006 04:10 PM |
| Advice | gopsal | Reef Aquariums | 2 | 09-23-2004 12:11 PM |
| Small reef tank advice. Need tank advice | Lynsey | Tanks, Filtration & Basic Equipment | 2 | 03-27-2002 04:42 PM |
| Need some advice | Mikeman | Reef Aquariums | 3 | 08-17-2001 03:03 AM |
| Advice please | Martyn | Reef Archives | 3 | 06-16-2000 01:53 AM |