coppersafe

tmkx3 · 05-10-2006, 08:38 AM

started treating with coppersafe last night for ick. I tested the wter for my copper levels afterwards. Mt test is a little hard to read. The kit jumps from 20 to 30 and I know that the # needs to be about 25. The test has the tube that you add 10 drops of the solution into the tube of tank water. Do I read the test from looking from the side of the tube or from the top looking into the tube. I know that this has to be done correctly to work and not harm my fish. What are some signs that the fish are stressed?

Steven Pro · 05-10-2006, 09:43 AM

What brand of test kit are you using?

tmkx3 · 05-10-2006, 02:02 PM

It doesn't have a brand name on it. It is an orange box that says copper test kit on the front and the instructions say that it is for chelated copper. On the bottom of the box it says Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,Inc.

**The R/C Man** · 05-11-2006, 12:34 AM

The tank you are treating is for fish only I assume.. If not the copper will cause major problems to the intverts. I am a big advocate of avoiding chemical usage in any marine tank. If possible catching the fish and moving it to quarantine tank would be ideal for treatment.

tmkx3 · 05-11-2006, 05:06 PM

Thanks for your help. The fish are in a 55g qt. This kit is done from the top of the tube and is for chelated copper. My readings are about 1.5. The color is just slightly lighter than the color chart for 2.0. The fish are all eating. I am feeding them formula one and two soaked in garlic. The temp is 80 and all my other readings are 0 except for my nitrates,which are 40. I used 30g of water from my main. I guess that is why my reading is high. I am preparing to do a water change. I will add back the copper accordingly. How large of a water change do I need to do to effect the nitrate #? I am thinking 20%.

**The R/C Man** · 05-11-2006, 08:44 PM

I would say 20% is good.

There are other ways of treating ick, without the use of chemicals. I believe the preffered choice is to reduce the salinity of the water over a period of time and to keep it there for a few weeks and then slowly return it to normal. Steve would know more about this subject.

I have also done some reading on the direct effects of natural cleaners and their reduction of fish deseases. Apparently, cleaner fish and shrimp have a profound effect in the wild and we should take note of this. Maybe keeping these helpful critters can reduce problems in the tank as well...

tmkx3 · 05-12-2006, 08:23 AM

I would have preferred to do hypo but I don't have a refractormeter. I have a cleaner shrimp but I think he has gotten lazy.

05-10-2006, 08:38 AM	#1
tmkx3 Just Moved In Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 48	coppersafe started treating with coppersafe last night for ick. I tested the wter for my copper levels afterwards. Mt test is a little hard to read. The kit jumps from 20 to 30 and I know that the # needs to be about 25. The test has the tube that you add 10 drops of the solution into the tube of tank water. Do I read the test from looking from the side of the tube or from the top looking into the tube. I know that this has to be done correctly to work and not harm my fish. What are some signs that the fish are stressed?

05-11-2006, 12:34 AM	#4
The R/C Man Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 691	The tank you are treating is for fish only I assume.. If not the copper will cause major problems to the intverts. I am a big advocate of avoiding chemical usage in any marine tank. If possible catching the fish and moving it to quarantine tank would be ideal for treatment. __________________ Greg 25 gallon reef with 20 gallon sump/fuge 375 gallon reef with 100 gallon sump/fuge: under construction Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

05-11-2006, 08:44 PM	#6
The R/C Man Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 691	I would say 20% is good. There are other ways of treating ick, without the use of chemicals. I believe the preffered choice is to reduce the salinity of the water over a period of time and to keep it there for a few weeks and then slowly return it to normal. Steve would know more about this subject. I have also done some reading on the direct effects of natural cleaners and their reduction of fish deseases. Apparently, cleaner fish and shrimp have a profound effect in the wild and we should take note of this. Maybe keeping these helpful critters can reduce problems in the tank as well... __________________ Greg 25 gallon reef with 20 gallon sump/fuge 375 gallon reef with 100 gallon sump/fuge: under construction Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......

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05-10-2006, 09:43 AM	#2
Steven Pro Mayor Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 672	What brand of test kit are you using?

05-10-2006, 02:02 PM	#3
tmkx3 Just Moved In Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 48	It doesn't have a brand name on it. It is an orange box that says copper test kit on the front and the instructions say that it is for chelated copper. On the bottom of the box it says Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,Inc.

05-11-2006, 05:06 PM	#5
tmkx3 Just Moved In Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 48	Thanks for your help. The fish are in a 55g qt. This kit is done from the top of the tube and is for chelated copper. My readings are about 1.5. The color is just slightly lighter than the color chart for 2.0. The fish are all eating. I am feeding them formula one and two soaked in garlic. The temp is 80 and all my other readings are 0 except for my nitrates,which are 40. I used 30g of water from my main. I guess that is why my reading is high. I am preparing to do a water change. I will add back the copper accordingly. How large of a water change do I need to do to effect the nitrate #? I am thinking 20%.

05-12-2006, 08:23 AM	#7
tmkx3 Just Moved In Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 48	I would have preferred to do hypo but I don't have a refractormeter. I have a cleaner shrimp but I think he has gotten lazy.

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