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Acclimation and Introduction Stress |
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#1 |
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Alas, poor Nemo...
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There's probably an RHO article in here somewhere, but I'm having trouble getting a good list of stress symptoms for marine stock: there are just so many types.
Acclimation has been covered by the R/C Man so that probably doesn't need duplication, however, once in the tank... what then? Here are a list of questions that I would like to see answered (if only anecdotally):
Ok - who's first?
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Marc "Mom! Dad's got that stinking rock in the bathtub. Again!" [Science is under attack in our schools. Act now! www.marcdraco.co.uk ] |
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#2 |
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Moderator
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Hey Marc!
I am partial to a biotope setup for home aquria in order to reduce stresses and to promote natural behavoirs. Some symptoms for fish could be irregular behaviors such as over agressiveness or excessive timidness.
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Greg 25 gallon reef with 20 gallon sump/fuge 375 gallon reef with 100 gallon sump/fuge: under construction Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones....... |
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#3 |
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Alas, poor Nemo...
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Sorry Greg, what's a biotope setup?
I think the clownfish I just lost was respirating too much; panting almost - that should have been a clue.
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Marc "Mom! Dad's got that stinking rock in the bathtub. Again!" [Science is under attack in our schools. Act now! www.marcdraco.co.uk ] |
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#4 |
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Tenant
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Greenwich, CT
Posts: 87
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In my opinion, the very best reason to quarantene fish before introduction to the main tank is to alleviate stress. After what they've been through during the collection process, it's a wonder any make it at all. But I do think putting new fish directly in with established tankmates decreases its chance for survival even more...even if it initially looks okay. I use a small auxillary tank which is inline with my main system as a QT. If the fish shows no obvious sign of injury or disease, I'll usually just formalin dip it and, after drip acclimation, keep it in this tank for a few weeks just to 'rest up' and get its strength back. If it begins to show signs of a problem, it's much easier to remove and medicate in another, seperate tank. But I've found that just keeping them isolated for a couple weeks results in far less stress related problems later on
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#5 |
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Alas, poor Nemo...
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I have a fuge for "stress relief" - although the resident crabs won't help. Ho hum. What worries me with that method is if the QT is in the main water column (as my fuge is) then anything like Broolynella or Ick will probably make it into the main tank.
Keeping them to rest up seems like a topper idea though. I can't imagine how stressful it must be to get transported all that way in a crate and them dumped into tank after tank full of different compadres! I can't even bear to move room - let alone house!
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Marc "Mom! Dad's got that stinking rock in the bathtub. Again!" [Science is under attack in our schools. Act now! www.marcdraco.co.uk ] |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
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Greg 25 gallon reef with 20 gallon sump/fuge 375 gallon reef with 100 gallon sump/fuge: under construction Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones....... |
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#7 | |
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Alas, poor Nemo...
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Quote:
I'm aiming for that already (though I haven't decided which biotype) it will have to suit (or be based on) whatever suits FPCs like Nemo since that's what the kids want. I think that right now I'm heading deep lagoonal (my lights aren't really strong enough for shallow lagoon).
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Marc "Mom! Dad's got that stinking rock in the bathtub. Again!" [Science is under attack in our schools. Act now! www.marcdraco.co.uk ] |
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#8 |
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Moderator
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A PM you have!
__________________
Greg 25 gallon reef with 20 gallon sump/fuge 375 gallon reef with 100 gallon sump/fuge: under construction Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones....... |
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