[philolsen]

I would like to know the best way to re-cure new live rock. I have bought 2 10 gal tanks, 2 10,000k lights, and powerheads. I need to know how to get the best results and what kind of time it needs to be seperate from my display tank, I have 40 lbs coming I bought on ebay that is sold as "fully" cured but I do not want to take a chance with my fish by putting it directly into my tank. Also, can I buy the "critters" to make this real live rock not just colorful coraline. I have a couple pieces of live rock in my tank currently I bought from a couple LFS's that I believe is fully cured, it has polyps and is completely covered in various colors of coraline and has algae growing on it (my tangs love it).
My tank has been set up for about 18 months with decorative pieces and this is my first time using live rock so PLEASE forgive my ignorance. I have a Fluval 404 filter, a Ramora skimmer, a 11w UV filter, a 260w light fixture (mounted 10" above tank for good air flow) with 2 10,000k and 2 actinic bulbs, it also has 4 moonlight led's. Temp is kept at 79-82 degrees. Livestock includes a Huma Huma Trigger, a Yellow and Kole Tang a 3 Stripped Damsel and a Yellow Tail Damsel. All the fish are happy and healthy and I want to keep it that way.

[leebca]

Just give it time. Keep circulation up with a goodly amount of lighting. Lighting isn't too critical for this short stay in quarantine.

Regarding 'adding critters. . .' You can add pods to your tank, but you can't add the micro-life that lives inside the rock. See this: What is Live Rock, Anyway?

Time: 6 weeks if you want to be 99% sure the rock doesn't carry with it obligate (fish) parasites; 4 weeks if you want to inspect most of the life on the rock to determine whether or not you want it in your display tank; or 3 weeks if you want to be sure the rock isn't decomposing or dieing off anymore.

If the rock was 'less cured' it would best be done in a plastic garbage can or large bucket with circulation, many water changes and a skimmer to handle the decomposing life. I think, from your description, this rock isn't in need of that kind of treatment.

New rock is what carries with it fire worms and other critters you may not want in your aquarium. Within about 4 weeks most lifeforms will show themselves that you should be concerned about.

If you can find out if the rock came from a source with fish in the system, or an unknown source, then you can suspect fish parasites. If the rock came from a fishless source (at least 6 weeks without fish or no contact with water from a system with fish in it), you can shorten its quarantine.

The greatest challenge will be water quality control. Watch for ammonia and nitrites daily for the first few days, at least. Check pH daily or more often and maintain a steady pH.

Good luck!

[philolsen]

OK, is there a true way to know if I am getting or can get "live" rock???

[leebca]

If you're ordering online for delivery, you won't know until you get it. Even photos of it can be misleading, since photos readily depict the coralline, but little details about the diversity that might be there.

If you're there to pick it out yourself, you can get an idea of what it is you're buying.

You can canvas friends and fellow aquarists to find out the places they found good rock and avoid those places where experiences are negative. In general, it's getting to be more and more of a challenge to obtain rock with a great amount of living marine diversity.

What I and others sometimes do is break up the rock sources. . .If 50 pounds are needed, then buy 15 from one place, 10 from another, 15 from a third, etc. until the sum is obtained. If one arrives that really impresses you, you might try to buy the balance from that source.

[philolsen]

is adding shrimp, snails etc a good idea? If so what types are best that will work with my fish (see above).

[leebca]

Snails are a very good idea for a cleanup crew. Avoid crabs. Shrimps are good, but your Trigger fish might think they are food.

Some very good references on different kinds of snails:
The Grazing Snails, Part I - Turbo, Trochus, Astraea, and Kin by Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D. - Reefkeeping.com
The Grazing Snails, Part II - Abalones, Limpets and Nerites by Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D. - Reefkeeping.com
The Grazing Snails, Part III: Conchs, Ceriths, Cowries, and Columbellids by Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D. - Reefkeeping.com
and
Aquarium Frontiers Library

Avoid the snails that tend to attack or eat other snails (those pretty Bumble Bee snails are one of those). When buying snails make sure you ask their origin. You want snails from tropical waters. If the snails come from temperature or cooler waters, they will slowly cook to death in the home marine aquarium. Often, snails sold out of Mexican and Florida waters don't live long in the aquarium because they are not used to the heat.

[philolsen]

Thanks