This is a good question. In fact, few old aquarists give it much thought. The advanced and experienced aquarists take it for granted. So here is one way to perform a water change:
1. Make sure you're using proper source water (see: WATER - Source and NSW). If there is any doubt as to the quality of the source water, test it. Artificial salt manufacturers who recommend using tap water as the source water are wrong. The variations on tap water around the world make it such a wide range of ingredients that it isn't consistently reliable enough for source water for the marine aquarium. Get more information about the downside to using tap water here: Chemistry and the Aquarium
2. Mix the source water, preferably using a submersible (inside aquarium) pump (not an aerator). The water should move up and down in the mixing container, not around in a circle.
3. Add the artificial salt, in the quantity required to get close to the marine system's specific gravity.
4. Mix the salt according to the salt manufacturer's directions (as to how long to mix). (NOTE: The salt manufacturer should know how best to mix their water, however studies have shown that the most stabilized water is achieved after about a week of mixing. This extended time is connected to gas exchange and the chemical reactions going on in the water with the gases from the air.)
5. After mixed, check the specific gravity of the prepared water. [NOTE: If the salt mix is not properly blalnced to provide the proper calciium, alkalinity, and magnesium, now is the time to bring that into balance with the chemistries in the marine system. More on this here: What is Water Quality.] The specific gravity of the new water should match as closely as you can with the specific gravity of the water it will replace. Adjust the new water by adding a little more salt, or adding some source water. If a lot of salt had to be added (more than 2% of what you've already added) then go back to 4.
6. When the specific gravity of the new water matches the marine system water specific gravity, measure the pH and temperature of the marine system and the new water. Adjust pH and temperature of the new water to that of the marine system water. (NOTE: This is one of the places of the biggest common error -- the pH adjustment. The pH of the new and old water must be extremely close -- to within 0.05 pH units, if possible). The temperature of the new water should be no lower, and can be up to 1.5F higher than the marine system water.
7. Remove the water from the marine system. You can take advantage of siphoning in order to clean out detritus/debris around in the display tank, sump, and/or refugium.
8. Add the new water to the marine system.
After the above, it is important to replace evaporated water with distilled water (if you have a small aquarium), RO/DI, or deionized water. Maintain a constant specific gravity of the marine system, a constant pH in the proper zone, and a constant temperature.
Hope this helps.![]()


LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks

Reply With Quote
Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.


Bookmarks