[Garrett]

Everyone,

So i started to set up my tank last night. Going through all of the things that are on Leebca's list...i rinsed my substrate, filled all the water in 15 gallon batches making sure everthing was the same. Filled it half way and put my live rock in. Filled it the rest of the way and then started to get my overflow ready to run oh! filled the sump with water as well. Well that's when the defication started to hit the fan. In hooking up my air lifter to the overflow somehow some way the air lifter moved an broke the plastic piece that helps take the air out of the overflow right off. Well i tried to use putty to keep the air out. That worked for a while and then air kept getting back into the overflow and stopping it. On top of things my circulation pump quit on me and that was the only one i had. So the water and live rock sat all night. With all of that my questions are.....

1.) Could i use a hot glue gun to put the plastic piece on?
2.) How do i keep air out of the overflow? The airlifter came with a tube and a little green T fitting almost that acts as a valve. Do i close the valve and leave that piece on there?


My new system is a 55 gal std. tank with i would say about 10 gal sump. i have 30 lbs. of Aragmax and 20 lbs. of Agra-live. and around 50 lbs. of live rock.

Any and i mean any suggestions on what i can do to keep everything alive would be appreciated.

Thanks
Garrett

[leebca]

Hi Garrett. Sorry to hear of the problems. Its seems like 'something' is trying to slow you down.

1) You can make any connection, use any glue or adhesive, use heat to melt the parts, or use hot glue, so long as the materials are safe for marine life. Don't use any adhesive or process of doubt or which doesn't claim to be aquarium safe and more specifically, safe for marine life aquariums. Contact manufacturers for guidance if the product doesn't indicate if marine aquarium use is recommended or approved.

In general, epoxies are usable. There are 'glues' on the market that aquarists use to glue frags and, in small quantities works well. Small joints can sometimes be sealed by that ol' standby, aquarium sealant. Some glues and putty products can even be used underwater and on wet parts. Most work better on dry parts.

Regarding the Live Rock: I would get a large enough plastic garbage container (preferably a new one). Clean it out (even if new). Rinse several times. Put saltwater into the container and transfer the rock into it. Add an aerator to keep water moving and the surface exchanging gas. This should hold the rock until the aquarium system is fixed. If you think this isn't necessary, then just put an aerator (air stone/block and diaphragm air pump) or two into the aquarium to keep the saltwater moving around the rock.

2) This is a little harder to answer, since I'm not familiar with the equipment you've minimally described. I can speak in generalities: Siphon tubes often have a 'hole' in it that permits the breaking of the siphon (by letting air into the tube). The hole also allows the operator to start the siphon by drawing air out of the siphon tube, through the hole. That hole needs to be closed off to keep air out of the siphon tube, during operation. There should be an air-tight plug for that hole or, if it is a T like you described, then a valve for that part of the tubing. Close off the hole after the siphon tube is air-free and siphoning.

I'm unsure how the 'airlift' is connect or involved with the siphon tube. Can you take a picture of what you're describing, and post it?

[Reefland]

Also, what is the gph rating of the return pump?

[Garrett]

Reefland,

Thanks for the advice sorry should have been more specific on the equipment as well...I have a CPR90 overflow and a mag drive 9.5 (950 gph) return pump. In the hose going from the return pump to the tank i have a ball valve as to control the flow out of the sump....I'm going to by a new circulation pump when i get off of work this afternoon in order to give flow in the tank.

[Reefland]

Well the mag 9 would definitely be enough to keep the tubes flowing steadily.

[Garrett]

Alrighty, i have bought a replacement circulation pump and put that into the tank while i fix the tank...i'm going to hot glue the plastic piece on to the tank...i realized that i should have kept the air lifter on the entire time and not turned it off. So once i get the piece on and to stay on i will do that and well go from there.

Thanks for the help

[leebca]

I'm glad you have kept us informed on your progress.

[Garrett]

Success!! I got it running last night i had to hot glue the piece back on and then everything started once i hooked up the aqualifter...i stayed up for about an hour last night to make sure it would keep running and so far this morning the tank looks really good. Again thanks for all of your help..

[leebca]

Always great to hear a happy ending!

[Garrett]

Quick Question, my tank is running warm about 80 degrees...would the easiest fix be to just add colder water slowly when it evaporates?

[leebca]

Generally, not enough evaporates to make this a reliable fix. Best is to add fan(s) across lighting and aquarium surface. You can add ice cubes made of distilled water; run a hose of cold water through the system (the cold of the water cools the tank without diluting or mixing with it); install a chiller; etc.

Lowering temperature is very damaging and harmful to marine fishes. When lowering temperature, do not lower water temperature by more than 2F over a 24 hour period.

[Reefland]

And there is nothing at all wrong with 80 degrees, in fact that is a great target temp in my opinion.

[Garrett]

Well that's good to know..i'm keeping that 80 degrees without the heater on..i think it's the pump is getting the water to temp. I would have to figure out something other wise i don't have money or space to put a chiller. Also i don't have a canopy to put fans in either....i can't wait to get a bigger tank lol you can do so much more.

Thanks for the advice i'll try to keep the 80 degrees going...

Thanks