How to Make a Successful Water Change

[leebca]

Few experienced aquarists give much thought to making water changes. It has become second nature. The advanced and experienced aquarists take it for granted. For the beginner, the nuances and attention to water changes can mean a happy fish or a dead fish, and anything in between. So here is one way to perform a water change to make a happy fish:

It should be noted that the greater (higher percent) the water change, the more control needs to be made. A 15% water change or less doesn't have that great of an impact on the whole system, so some areas (noted below) don't have to have such strict controls.

WHY ARE YOU MAKING A WATER CHANGE?

Sounds like a strange question, but MANY hobbyists can't answer correctly! There are three primary reasons we make water changes:
a. To remove wastes that are building up. For instance, nitrates. However, there are many more unmeasured wastes being removed. The buzz word is 'export';
b. To replenish minor elements to some degree; or
c. To fix a water problem.

So how much of a water change should you make? Another question not usually answered correctly by hobbyists. These are the conditions you're trying to achieve, and the sizes of the water change to meet those reasons:
a. Stabilize the water. Make frequent (weekly) small (10%) water changes. This does not export a lot of wastes, but makes the water very stable in terms of content. An equilibrium is reached where the wastes reach their max levels and are held there -- that/waste which is removed is being replaced within that week.

b. Reduce wastes. Make not so frequent (every 3 weeks) a medium sized (25%) water exchange. This routine keeps waste content low, building it up to medium-high levels, before a drop.

c. Remove contaminant(s) or fix water quality problem(s). Make a frequent (every other day or more frequent, depending on the problem and recommendation) huge (over 80%) water change. This is a 'low tide' condition -- your marine life thinks it's low tide! There is something wrong with the water, or the fish isn't eating and you're hoping to 'shock' it into eating, or its a major removal of wastes and 'refreshes the system.'

d. Balance the chemistries. Ain't gonna happen! No salt manufacturer can be counted upon to make a 'balanced' formula AND there is no way any manufacturer can account for how fast your marine life removes ingredients/chemicals from the water. You don't 'fix' water ingredient problems through a water change, other than to remove the chemicals you shouldn't have added. Read this and understand about balancing water: What is Water Quality. In this post, down about 1/3 is the section titled: BALANCE you are explained and given the balanced chemistries you should be trying to achieve. These are NOT natural sea water numbers. Our salt mixes do not make up sea water.


NOW. . .

1. Make sure you're using proper source water free of contaminants (including but not limited to: dissolved organics, ammonia, nitrites, phosphates, nitrates, silica compounds, smell, and poisons). If there is any doubt as to the quality of the source water, test it. Artificial salt manufacturers who recommend using tap water as the source water are wrong. The variations on tap water around the world make it such a wide range of ingredients in tap water, that tap water isn't consistently reliable enough for source water for the marine aquarium. Tap water today can contain pesticides, fertilizers, poisons, other organics, and so far it has been analyzed to contain recreational and prescription drugs. Get more information about the downside to using tap water here: Chemistry and the Aquarium. If you want more information about source water, check this link out: WATER - Source and NSW

2. Mix the source water, preferably using a submersible (inside aquarium) pump (not an aerator). The water should move up and down in the mixing container, not around in a circle. [Adding air to the water is not desirable, IMO because it encourages carbonate precipitation as the water is encouraged to keep taking on air.]

3. Add the artificial salt to the water, in the quantity required to get close to the marine system's (or QT water's) specific gravity.

4. Mix the salt according to the salt manufacturer's directions (as to how long to mix). (NOTE: The salt manufacturer should know how best to mix their salt into water, however studies have shown that the most stabilized water is achieved after about a week of mixing. This extended time is connected to gas exchange and the chemical reactions going on in the water between the various salts and the gases in the surrounding air.) In no case would I recommend mixing for less than 48 hours. It has been discovered that bad salt mixes will usually 'show themselves out' within the first 48 hours of mixing. If the mixed salt is cloudy or undissolved in 48 hours, there is something wrong. (NOTE: Some unusual/less common artificial salt manufacturers may depend upon mixing to chemically react their chosen ingredients. Such manufacturers can recommend up to and including 2 weeks of mixing!).

5. After mixing is complete, check the specific gravity of the prepared water. [NOTE: If the salt mix is not properly balanced to provide the proper calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium, now is an opportunity to bring those chemistries into the desired range with the chemistries in the marine system. This is optional.] The specific gravity of the new water should match as closely as you can with the specific gravity of the water it will replace. Usually, matching to within 0.001 sp. gr. unit is acceptable. Adjust the new water by adding a little more salt, or adding some source water. If a lot of salt had to be added (more than 2% of what you've already added) then go back to 4.

6. When the specific gravity of the new water matches the marine system water specific gravity, measure the pH and temperature of the marine system and the new water. Adjust pH and temperature of the new water to that of the marine system water. (NOTE: This is one of the places of the biggest common error -- the pH adjustment. The pH of the new and old water must be extremely close -- to within 0.05 pH units, if possible). The temperature of the new water should be no lower, and can be up to 1.5F higher than the marine system water. To raise the pH, use sodium bicarbonate (pure baking soda) or sodium carbonate. To lower the pH use pure (no additives), clear, white, vinegar.

7. Remove the water from the marine system. You can take advantage of siphoning in order to clean out detritus/debris around in the display tank, sump, substrate, and/or refugium.

8. Add the new water to the marine system.

After the above, it is important to replace evaporated water with distilled water (if you have a small aquarium), or RO/DI or deionized water for larger systems. Maintain a constant specific gravity of the marine system, a constant pH in the proper zone, and a constant temperature.

Some interesting information and things to know:
a. A sudden drop in temperature as little as 2F in an hour can cause a marine fish mucous coating to sluff off or improperly function. This causes the fish to become sensitive to infection and diseases it could otherwise fend off. This is the reason why fish who go through a drop in temperature suddenly become ill or infected. A small drop in temperature is significantly far worse than a small rise in temperature.

b. pH is measured not in 'straight numbers' but in a logarithmic function of the hydrogen ion concentration. A small change in pH number is a large change in concentration of the hydrogen ion. What seems like a small numerical change is actually a large change. Don't be fooled. A pH change of 0.10 pH units is significant to a marine fish that has never known the pH of its home waters to change by more than 0.01 units over the period of a year!

c. Salinity sets up the way the fish's internal chemistries function. The fish's internal physiology is based upon the fish's environment and that environment is the water, how much salt is in that water, and how clean that water ultimately is with regards to its home water quality. A fish can handle a rather rapid lowering of salinity (specific gravity) but not an increase in salinity. If salinity drifts too low in the system, raise it slowly (no more than 0.002 sp. gr. units per day). The fish's internal chemistries need time to adjust to a change in salt concentration in the water.

Making the fish think the water is cleaner but hasn't changed in pH, temperature or salinity is the key to a good water change! ;)

Hope this helps.

[Zoanuts]

Very Gracious of you to work so hard to put this wonderful thread together Lee. Great Job!!

[art_of_war]

Very nice info. But I don't think everyone is going to take every precaution here. If water changes were that complicated; there'd be very few people getting into the hobby and even fewer sticking around.

[Live Rock Ricky]

i ususally mix in the am and do a change in the pm and haven't ever experienced a problem.

[art_of_war]

i ususally mix in the am and do a change in the pm and haven't ever experienced a problem.

That's nothin'. I mix and change right after I syphoned the old.

[Live Rock Ricky]

ive done that too w/o problems..

[art_of_war]

At one point, I used to mix 3 full 5 gallon buckets and I tested for SG and pH. This was all one 1 week before any water changes. Prior to changing; I'd test for SG and pH once more and checked the temperature; while aerating with a powerhead. However, I learned something rather disturbing about what the saltwater did to my buckets. The saltwater caused the buckets to flake off (not good). After that, I stopped using white buckets altogether.

Also, I didn't see much significance in water quality between prior and just prior mixing.

[leebca]

The advantage of forums such as this is that the new hobbyists can learn what the old hobbyists and aquarists have learned. Also, to learn what we've experienced and how the industry works both in favor of and sometimes against, the hobby. Lastly, hopefully this is a place where people, such as yourselves, may learn things you don't know about. Mixing salt is one of those things.

What you are both missing are three important facts about salt mixing: 1) Errors occur in salts, 2) while salts mix they are chemically reacting (which takes time), and 3) stress on fish are not always visible.

Salts in the past and currently are not always formulated properly. Large, medium, and small artificial salt manufacturers/packagers can and still do make mistakes in their salt preparations. However, the aquarist can prevent those errors from negatively affecting the marine life in their care -- if they care enough.

I know and have experienced bad mixes over the years and the one very highly reliable way of determining that, without doing a lot of water tests, is to mix the new salt for at least 48 hours regardless of the mixing instructions, take the pH, temperature, and specific gravity readings. Within and fully up to 48 hours salts that have been improperly formulated will likely show a precipitate or something wrong with the pH. Why so long and not right away?

Chemical reactions are going on while the salt mixes with the water. Even after all is dissolved, there are chemical reactions still going on. The water is changing. This takes time and exposure to the atmosphere. By hastily adding mixed salt, the hobbyist is not allowing enough time for the chemical reactions to take place.

Lastly, fish don't always communicate when something is wrong AND they don't always show it (even if the new hobbyist could tell), but they do die before they should, and quietly internally suffer with such hasty treatment.

Ignoring the stresses put on our captive fishes shortens their lives and makes their captive lives less tolerable. The stress effects are not always visible to the unaided eye. The advanced hobbyist has come to realize this about their pets. See: http://www.reefland.com/forum/marine...rine-fish.html

These instructions are for those who care about the affect of their water changes on marine fishes, and for those who want to take the science, experience and knowledge offered here seriously. Taking these measurements and giving times for the errors to show themselves is the best insurance for success, and that is what I personally hope for each (not hobbyist) captive fish.

Keep on learning.

[art_of_war]

Lee,

It's a wonderful thing what you're doing here. But you're not going to attract new hobbyists by scaring people. If I would have read this thread concerning saltwater chemistry before getting into this hobby I would never have gotten this far.

Saltwater fish are delicate and corals are even more so; I know this since I have both and then some. But, I think a lot of what we encourage in this hobby is more of practical methodology rather than push tools of ettiquette.

[bguile]

I think you may have the objectives of two different entities mixed up here.

First are the retailers. They are the ones to tell you "Oh, it's easy to run a saltwater tank" just so they can sell you fish and equipment at 300% markup knowing you'll be back because you're not caring for your pets properly.

The other entity is us the hobbyists that are still around and have learned from our own and the experiences of others. What Leebca and others offer here are lessons that their experience has taught them and should be viewed as such and not an attempt at just attracting more hobbyists.

The biggest problem with this hobby is that a very small percentage ever stick around because no one told them up front the challenges they would face without proper practices such as what Leebca has posted here. Take a look at the "For Sale or Trade" forum or even the disease and treatment forum and you'll see how many people have either given up or caused problems because of their impatience and bad practices. Just because something worked for now, doesn't mean it will cause a bigger heartache later. There is a saying in this hobby that "Only BAD things happen quickly". Everything else takes time and patience.

[leebca]

Nicely put. I specifically asked why people quit the hobby in another thread and mis-information was a significant factor. That thread: Why Quit the Hobby?

[Reefland]

Finding Nemo attracted new hobbyist and that wasn't necessarily a good thing for the industry. Especially when large players in the game started boasting their "nemo setups for sale" that enticed people to purchase 12 gallon tanks and put a hippo tang and clownfish in it the day they bought it.

Not being argumentative here art_of_war.

[art_of_war]

Finding Nemo attracted new hobbyist and that wasn't necessarily a good thing for the industry. Especially when large players in the game started boasting their "nemo setups for sale" that enticed people to purchase 12 gallon tanks and put a hippo tang and clownfish in it the day they bought it.

Not being argumentative here art_of_war.

reefland,

I thought this thread was about water changes. All I was stating is doing water changes doesn't have to be tedious and stressful. If you choose to put in the extra mileage, that's your perrogative. A good quality salt mix with treated water and some common sense should suffice. Most of us have been quite successful on these alone.

As for those that went out and bought an ocellaris and a regal after seeing that movie...well, what about those that went out and bought a car after seeing "Cars"?

[Reefland]

I was strictly referring to the comment that the comments in this thread are "not going to attract new hobbyists by scaring people". I think the comments posted in this thread are valid as it points out some of the challenges that are faced by hobbyist. It's not an easy hobby, and one that requires diligence and effort, in addition to cash, and the comments weren't posted to attract or distract people. It was just experience.

[art_of_war]

I was strictly referring to the comment that the comments in this thread are "not going to attract new hobbyists by scaring people". I think the comments posted in this thread are valid as it points out some of the challenges that are faced by hobbyist. It's not an easy hobby, and one that requires diligence and effort, in addition to cash, and the comments weren't posted to attract or distract people. It was just experience.

Don't be offended by this response:

The comments/responses can be valid and every hobbiest can approve of the messages but lets be honest, if you were 12 years old and you read these same things would it be something you'd want to get involved with?

Mixing saltwater is an interesting chemistry. I've learned this by comparing both real saltwater from the ocean to the saltwater we mix in our homes. To be honest, our home mixtures? It's BETTER than the ocean. And, it doesn't take as much effort either. Obviously we can't go blindly but let's face it, it's not brain surgery.

[Reefland]

I think it depends on the person reading it and what amount of energy they are willing to put into the hobby. If it is someone of any age that wants to be informed, and do it right, then the message would not detour them from getting involved. If it is someone who is just looking at putting up an inadequate tank and stocking it with pretty fish, then it might detour them and for the industry, that necessarily isn't a bad thing.

Good discussions...thank you for that!

[Live Rock Ricky]

Go Red Sox? Hheheheheehe Lmao

[art_of_war]

Go Red Sox? Hheheheheehe Lmao

ricky,

It's a good thing I like you right now. B/c I really don't like those Red Sox. If the Indians wouldn't have blown game five, they would have been the world champs instead.

[Reefland]

[Live Rock Ricky]