New User: Setting up a 55 Gallon Salt Water Lionfish tank

[RMThompson]

Hey all.

I am new to the forum, and I already am enjoying the lively discussion.

I am interested in getting some ideas/suggestions/advice on setting up a 55 gallon saltwater fish tank. While I love the breautiful tanks filled with tiny creatures and liverock and corals and whatnot, I feel like I am not ready for that; both experience wise and financially.

Here is my equipment:

Current USA lighting: Fish tank extras (Not sure on specific model, maybe one of you can help)

on this tank: 55 gallon fishtank with the underground wet/dry/skimmer setup you see.

Now, I've had only a little experience with these types of under the tank filtration... so any advice or suggestions? Where can I get new O-rings, Id like to make sure everything is new.

Furthermore, if I wanted to set this up to hold a large Lionfish (well he would be small to start I presume) what other critters might get along with him? Do I NEED liverock? I really think it's rather ugly unless it's covered in corals, and I would like to avoid it.

Please let me know what I should do to make my hobby a success?

[leebca]

WELCOME TO REEFLAND!

Whereas you have some equipment, ideas and the marine fish you'd like to keep, you need to read up on the possible combinations and different marine setups so that you can decide on the right one for you. There are dozens to choose from, which your equipment can form a start.

Although this is not exactly what you will be doing, this post gives you an idea of what you're in for and much of it will apply to your project: Setting Up a FOWLR Aquarium

To investigate the possible setups you should get a good book on setups. This post has some suggested reading: Marine Aquairum Books & Reading

In fact, if you go to this Reefland list of topics, you might find additional things worth reading: Table/Contents - Link List

I can't recommend a system/setup for you since I really don't know the one best suited for your circumstances, budget, etc., etc. However, once you have decided upon the kind of setup you want, then I and others here can help you with questions. We can also answer specific questions about any specific setup you have in mind once you've gotten down some basics.

[RMThompson]

OK

I got my tank tonight, and I've never set up a wet dry quite like this, can someone explain how in the heck this isn't going to soak my floor in case of a power outtage?

In this first picture I've labeled the flow of the water, and where I would assume the water level would DROP to in case of a power failure since this is where the intake valve is... its so low!

[leebca]

The rising pipe where the water flows down from the tank is too short.

You see, the opening of that pipe would be where the water level of the tank will be. You won't keep the water level above that pipe opening.

The pipe handles overflow. Let's call it the overflow pipe. The intake of the overflow pipe should be close to the top of the aquarium, just a bit below where you want the water level to be maintained.

Speaking in generalities, assuming 'normal' return flow to the aquarium and close proximity of sump and display tank, the sump should hold at least 20% of the aquarium/display tank volume. When the return pump stops, the sump will hold water still overflowing into the overflow pipe, the water in the plumbing to and from the sump, and still allow enough room in the sump so it doesn't totally fill up. If you want to run a skimmer inside the sump, it will take up sump volume too and that must be added to the 20% figure.

[RMThompson]

That's what I thought.

It really bothers me because I asked the guy I bought it from that very question, and he showed me that it only dropped like 6 inches.... which made sense until I saw how short the pipe was.

I wonder what else he lied about...

[leebca]

Sorry you were misled. If that person is unfamiliar with flow rates, etc. there may be an additional problem -- the diameter of the pipe.

Since the overflow pipe operates by gravity, the diameter of that pipe is usually significantly larger than the diameter of the return pipe (the pipe bringing water back into the aquarium).

Another concern: Although a single overflow pipe is the general concept, the opening area of the pipe (the diameter times circumference) will be responsible for pulling into it the surface water. This area should be larger, in my opinion, than the overflow pipe now there, in a tank your size. Most often a rectangular 'box' acts as the overflow 'pipe' and is placed in the back corner which for a FOWLR 55 gallon setup should be no less than 4 x 4 inches, with notches/slits in it to hold back small fishes, snails, etc. The bottom of that overflow box (at the base of the aquarium) is then connected to an appropriately sized pipe. The larger opening that such a 'box' affords pulls more surface water into the overflow which is what you want in order to keep the water surface clean and free of floating wastes.

[RMThompson]

interesting.

I just got off the phone with a pretty good LFS, and the guy seemed to indicate that the sealed black area will prevent this from happening.

Furthermore he gave me instructions on building a DIY Dursa Valve to prevent the gurgling toilet noise these intakes/drains seem to have.

[leebca]

That would indeed address the noise, but I don't see where it will remove the top layer of water. The 'skimming' action of the overflow drain is one of its very desirable features. Oils and oily proteins rise to the surface of the water and part of the job of the overflow is to send that to the sump for proper skimming.

[RMThompson]

leebca, you are right to that effect, although I dont see a way around it that is noiseless.

I supposed I will have a wall of bubbles in the background to help with surface movement and a powerhead to the right to stir the water a bit more.