[Geno]

Hello -- it's me (Geno) again with another question.

I'm getting settled with some important decisions regarding wet/dry systems, skimmers, LR, UV filters, etc.

Now, I want to learn how to best prepare for water changes. I know using tab water is a no-no. I've read that a good RO/DI system produces excellent water. However, the water waste from the RO process is unacceptable for me. I've also checked into a recommendation (KATI/ANI?) but that approach seems a bit mysterious for me.

Can I get by with a simple DI approach -- or is that too risky?

Thanks again for your thoughts!

I'll be back

-geno

[Reefland]

You can but the DI resin will exhaust very quickly without the pre-filters and you still have the waste water. You could collect the waste water and use it for other things, such as plant watering, etc.

[leebca]

Welcome back Geno.

I'm uncertain what size marine system you are talking about. You purchased the 125 and with the system you've mentioned, maybe you will have about a 140 gallon system? You didn't mention a sump in your previous posts.

This is what I'd call a mid-sized system. You have options depending upon what is most financially attractive and the way you want to have to deal with it.

Please read this: WATER - Source and NSW

There is a double deionized system which probably produces better water than needed for a FOWLR system. You can for the most part just use a DI system that also has an activated carbon polishing chamber after the DI treatment. Much has to do with the water quality going into the DI system and that depends upon the source water (tap water) you are getting.

Often DI dealers talk in terms of what is good for human consumption and don't get much beyond that. What you'd like is more information. For instance, you want to know what the resin displaces in the water. That is, for every ion removed, what is released into the water. Thus you can determine if that is the right resin to use or not.

You want to know if your tap water is allowed to contain trace quantities of pesticides and other organics and yet still be suitable for human consumption. Such water can be problematic to the DI system and thus allow poisons to get into your marine system.

Within the above reference, there is a link to an article on tap water, just to give you some ideas on things to look for.

Hope this helps.

[Geno]

Hello Lee,

Thanks again for your direction. I have pretty much read all your sticky posts -- obviously I need to reread some of them. e.g. about water.

To clarify my set up -- I have purchased a 125g reef-ready tank and stand with a glass top. I wanted the 72" length to allow the fish as much room to swim as I can afford. That's all I've purchased thus far. Stuff is expensive and I want to pay for everything as I go, i.e. no debt!

I plan to purchase a wet/dry set up such as the Pro Clear model 200. It allows for two water source inputs and I have two pre-drilled drains in the back of the tank. They are not in the corner as some are.

I'm also leaning toward the AquaC 180 skimmer and recommended pump.

At this point, that's about all I've actually decided on. I haven't yet made a decision about lighting, powerheads, heaters, etc. I do know that I plan to use LR.

I'm just about finished with my first reading of The New Marine Aquarium by Michael Paletta. I've highlighted key areas for rereading.

Please keep sharing ideas and suggestions. I'm having more fun than I should be allowed

-geno

[leebca]

You're welcome. We're here to help. There is a lot to familiarize yourself with, being away from the hobby for 25 years. Ask when you have questions.