Where do I go from here ?

[priebjm]

My 55g tank has been up and running for 10 months. I bought it used at a local LFS with a Penguin 330 filter and a Maxi Jet 1200 powerhead. I set it up with a crushed coral substrate and patiently went through the cycle period. I did not have any live rock but added a Jebo skimmer about 6 months ago. I began stocking at about that same time and have 1-Maroon Clown, 1-Coral Beauty and 1-Blue green Chromis. Last weekend I happened across an LFS that was moving his operation and I was able to finally buy 30# of fully cured LR which came from his tanks. I've been checking the ammonia everyday since adding the rock and all seems well. I have been planning to add a royal gramma this week and today I came across Reefland. I've been reading threads all day and have decided to slow down and verify what I have done so far and should do moving forward.

I guess my first question would revolve around water quality. I have read the threads that Lee has provided and I am curious about ph calcium and alkilinity. I do not currently test for these and am unclear as to the need for a FOLR system. Please explain. Also, I have been using tap water since day one. What is RO and how would I go about getting it ?

Sorry for the length of this first post but I must tell you that this website is far and away the best I've ever seen.

[tholleyh46]

ph, calcium and alkilinity are basic testing parameters for the marine tank, fish only not quite as important; yet all three are intertwined.

Try reading this: pH Control For Dummies - Saltwater Aquarium pH and Alkalinity Simplified

RO is reverse osmosis, basically it is close to pure water, add a DI for RO/DI and it is pure water. You can buy an RO/DI unit or purchase RO or RO/DI water either from an LFS or some even get it from water vending machines. For about $12 you can buy as TDS meter which measures Total Dissolved Solids in your water. Generally, you'll measure the TDS of the water before you add your salt as you'd need a more expensive meter to read it once the salt has been added.

Algae blooms are common from using tap water, try reading this and then go on to info about RO and RO/DI units/sources.

The Problems With Using Tap Water in Saltwater Aquarium Systems - About Guides to Saltwater Aquariums

[Reefland]

The calcium and alkalinity isn't as important for the FOWLR system. What are your basic parameters such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, salinity and temp?
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[leebca]

WELCOME TO REEFLAND!

This post is a good starting point to obtain the answers to your questions: What is Water Quality.

You'll find links within that post with regards to source water.

Marine fish need stable pH. What makes for stable pH? Controlling the buffering ability of the water. What does this? The combination of the three: Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. These should be checked and adjusted after every water change (if you perform 15% or greater changes) or once a month if you make 10% water changes weekly). This is what controls the buffering ability of the water which controls the pH and holds it steady during times of fluctuation.

In addition to the above, as explained in the above link, if you have live rock, then you have organisms that are depending upon calcium, alkalinity (carbonates), and magnesium to make their skeletons (like coralline algae, and snails, some worms, etc.). If you don't provide a supply of these in proper ratios, you won't have a balanced aquarium where the lifeforms will have these resources to draw upon.

The above post lists what the relationships are between these three, how to make adjustments, when to make them, and why it should be controlled, even in a FOWLR aquarium. Although in this type of system, the control is relaxed and performed routinely, but not frequently.

With regards to RO that is Reverse Osmosis water. Have you reviewed the glossary of terms? You might find it useful: Glossary of FOWLR Terms

You can make it yourself with a RO unit you can buy or a combination RO/DI unit. They are small. Many of the sponsors here sell them. Start searching. As to the use of tap water, I hope you've read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm

I'd say you were doing well to slow down after the addition of more LR. Give time (at least two months) for everything to adjust and return to balance before making any other marine life additions. And then, stick to the rule of adding no more than one fish or life form every 6 to 8 weeks after the proper quarantine.

Ask questions if you have 'em. We're here to help.

[priebjm]

Basic Parameters
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5-10 ppm
ph 8.3
Temp 79
Salinity 1.022

[priebjm]

I have been testing ammonia daily since adding the LR. What would be suggested if it starts to rise ?

[leebca]

If you get an ammonia rise, you need to either make water changes or immediately put in ammonia absorbing chemicals.

With regards to the first one, start now and prepare. Get a lot of water ready for immediate use. If the ammonia does rise and you plan on controlling it this way, your water changes will be large (over 60%) and maybe twice a day until things settle.

With regards to the second choice, you want to have a chemical filter ready. You obtain ammonia absorbing pads (not chemicals you will add to the water) to control ammonia. The pads become a part of a filter.

I don't anticipate a problem, but taking the wait-and-see approach is best for all inhabitants.

[priebjm]

Thank you. I currently already use a Penguin 330, waiting for the LR to take over. Is this the type of filter you mean as a "chemical filter" ? Would the pads go in this. Would the activated charcoal remain ?

[leebca]

The pads are (more or less) cut to fit the filter. That is the kind of filter, but I'm uncertain it will be 'large enough' to contain enough pad.

Using the activated carbon at the same time is okay (if it fits in the filter along with the pads).

Think of a chemical filter just like any other filter. First, you know what a mechanical filter is, right? If you take out the filter floss and things that hold back particles and replace them with a chemical pad or resins that absorb specific chemicals from the water, you have made a chemical filter out of the mechanical filter.

Have you reviewed this post: Glossary of FOWLR Terms