75 gallon tank Capacity

[leebca]

I think that if you read and understand the post I linked for you to read, you'd know the answers to your questions. I was hoping people could answer that question for themselves, by looking at the fish in pictures, at the LFS, public aquariums, etc.

Wrasses like the brilliant Conde's Fairy Wrasse are not thin, right? They look like an oval. Wrasse mass is medium to large for the length, thus they are on the opposite end of the scale. Wrasses will have a medium to large impact on the bio-load, only less than the predatory fishes.

Look down the length of the fish -- is it compressed (thin), like an oval, or round like a tube, or thick and wide? When stocking wrasses (or any marine fish) be aware of their full potential size. Don't stock a fish your aquarium won't hold when that fish is full grown.

[infulgeo]

I think that if you read and understand the post I linked for you to read, you'd know the answers to your questions. I was hoping people could answer that question for themselves, by looking at the fish in pictures, at the LFS, public aquariums, etc.

Wrasses like the brilliant Conde's Fairy Wrasse are not thin, right? They look like an oval. Wrasse mass is medium to large for the length, thus they are on the opposite end of the scale. Wrasses will have a medium to large impact on the bio-load, only less than the predatory fishes.

Look down the length of the fish -- is it compressed (thin), like an oval, or round like a tube, or thick and wide? When stocking wrasses (or any marine fish) be aware of their full potential size. Don't stock a fish your aquarium won't hold when that fish is full grown.

Thanks i def reread the article and feel i have a better understanding... on a bit of a different topic that maybe you can shed some light on; i'm concerned of any overkill i might be encouraging.
I'm looking to keep nitrates low so i wasn't sure if i should keep a DSB in the refugium or display if it even matters at all with a large HOB refugium. Also i was reading on one of your articles that regular sand substrate of about 1mm can be used. also would growing Red Mangrove and/or shaved brush algae in the display as well as culturing Chaeto in the refugium be acceptable? (i do realize that growing them in the display will require stronger lighting and will pay for whatever wattage is suitable)
thanks again for your time,
-Infulgeo

[leebca]

Deep sand beds and refugiums for nitrate controlling is best geared towards a reef tank. Having said that, there is nothing wrong having either one or both in a FOWLR, just don't expect it to really control nitrates. Size (square footage of each) will also figure into their ability to reduce nitrates with any given nitrogen bio-load.

Most of the macro algae are not efficient for nitrate control, like Shaving Brush, etc. Mangroves are not very good at nitrate control until they have gotten large and then they require attention.

The most effective nitrate control (as far as algae is concerned) is a fast growing, low maintenance and low light requiring marine algae. That is why and how Chaeto became so popular. It fits these requirements. Algae growth in the display tank isn't usually an option if you plan on a community tank where some fishes eat it regularly. Chaeto in the display tank doesn't look attractive and once it gets a strong foothold, it is difficult to eradicate. So, keep only Chaeto for nitrate, phosphate, and some organic export. Mix in whatever you desire. . .

First rule here, is do what you want. You're not going to avoid regular water changes to control general pollutants (including nitrates) as long as you press the fish content to the max. A refugium offers a great/wide variety of options that won't work in a community FOWLR display, and can be a source of entertainment and learning in of itself!