LEEBCA -questions for your threads

[NikeLV]

I have read almost all your threads on introducing fish to a reef tank. e.g. 'A Fish Quarantine Process' 'Stocking the Marine Fish Medicine Cabinet'
first, you said
After Use
The QT can remain running, with food (0.5 gram frozen food per 20 gallons) added every other day to keep the biological filter running,
OR
Return sponge filter to display tank system (e.g., sump) and keep it running until needed again.
Tear down the QT; wash and rinse it out thoroughly; let dry; store so that it can't/won't be contaminated or gather dust

*I am going to use the QT mainly for introducing new fish*
Since I am going to use medication in the QT, won't the bio-sponge filter absorb all the medication? why put it back in the main tank?
and, is this all the supplies I need for the QT?
-Bio-sponge filter + small air pump, 10g tank, meds, PVC pipe, and small light

what else does Cupramine copper kill than ICH? is it a med primarily for tang's? for my 100g reef, I am going to stick with small fish for now.. clowns, chromis, anthias, gobies. I have decided against FW dip tbh. After reading the FW dip, I can imagine how much stress is being introduced to a marine fish. and why FW dip when there are meds that will kill the parasites in the QT?

I am still unsure about the med's for QT.. and about ALL the threads you have posted (no means of offence! , I still look at you a professional reefkeeper). If you use every new way of acclimating a fish, I would just kill myself if I had to go through what the fish was going through. 1. Drip acclimating, or your way of acclimating, 2. FW dip (I still find this as the most stressful), 3. Formalin bath, 4. QT, 5. 50% water changes a week, 6. QT being filled with new medications every few days (or weeks), 7. no room to swim, (ahem, craq economy, low incomes) 8. Acclimating again to, or if the QT's parameters were the same as DT, DT! 9. +all the little fishy went through to actually get to the LFS, then to your home.

Last but not least, you said not to quarantine more than one fish in a QT. But many people recommend introducing fish like Chromis, Anthias, etc. schooling fish, all together. Especially for Chromis, where I will need to add about 7 of them at a time, are you saying that I need to buy 7 SEPARATE QT's? - Honest questions means for honest answers. tyvm!

[leebca]

Thanks for your post and questions. I'll address as many questions as I can find in the post.

1. A proper sponge does not absorb enough chemicals that would adversely affect the main system. A sponge that has, like the fish, gone through curing, is free of disease. (The fish is going into the QT, too). But if the quarantine process in cut short, not done properly or if the fish is still suspect with regards to pathogens, then introducing the sponge filter back into the display system is not a good idea.

2. What you need is the correct sized QT. If a 10g size fits the fish you will use it for, then that is the right one. The list you have there is not complete. Hiding places for the fish is recommended in the post for instance. Wasn't there 11 things listed for what might be needed?

3. Cupramine is used to kill Marine Ich and Marine Velvet. Its general use is against a small group of ciliated protozoan.

4. Cupramine is not a medication just for Tangs, since all marine fishes can contract Marine Ich and Marine Velvet.

5. I'll clarify my post. I have mentioned it in a few other posts but it never got put into the acclimation post -- I recommend putting schools of fishes through the same QT if they came from the same source in the same tank or system water from the same source. I don't (still) recommend the QT of two Anemonefishes even if they were together, since their treatment of Brook is much easier handled when they are separate. The treatment would require two tanks if the two were together, so starting off with two would be best. However, if they are a mated pair and come from the source as a mated pair, together along the relocation process, I would QT them together.

6. Fish stress is measurable. Many people tend to personify their fish's experience. A common phrase, also sometimes referred to clinically is personification anthropomorphism. The purpose of the process of acclimation given is in fact to reduce stress on the fish. That stress may be put on the hobbyist, but that isn't my main concern -- I'm more from the perspective of the fish. You have to decide what you can and can't do. As for measuring stress in fish, you may find this a good read: Stress - A More Technical Discussion