So anyways yesterday my cultured florida liverock arrived air cargo so now my tank can officially start cycling.8. LET THE TANK RUN LIKE THIS FOR AT LEAST TWO WEEKS. Check twice or three times a day all equipment for leaks and malfunction. Make any equipment adjustments. Only add top off water (distilled water or water treated through an RO/DI treatment used to replace evaporated water).
9. Life should be coming out of the live rock by this point, and hopefully pods and worms will be spreading around the aquarium. (Check at night, too). Start feeding that life. Add frozen fish foods to the aquarium (NOT pellets or flake) at a rate of about 0.5 gram every day or other day per 25 gallons of water. After no less than two weeks OR when readings indicate ammonia level is zero and nitrite levels are below 0.10 ppm and pH is being held steady go on to 10. Add additional pods and worms if you like, at this point.
10. Begin your water change pattern (10+% weekly, 25% every 2 weeks, or 40+% monthly are good choices). If you want do choose to do large water changes, follow this guideline: How to Make a Successful Water Change . Put one or more sponge filters into the display tank (sump) for the quarantine process.Based upon step 8 and 10 I should let my tank run for 2 weeks before I do my first water change. I did a water change when I put the rock in yesterday to top the tank back off but I guess my question is that since I did have some minimal die off on the rock eventhough it was sold as cured rock should I do multiple re-curing water changes? I know my ammonia is gonna spike during cycling but i don't want it so high that it kills all my hitchhikers. Is there an ammonia level I should keep it below with daily or bi=weekly changes? I better order some more salt...
![]()



LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote
At least my new RO/DI is overdrive, lol ....trickle

Post your fish care and health questions on the Reefland MARINE FISH: CARE, HEALTH AND DISEASE TREATMENT Forum.


