Best RO Units???

[ecrawford10]

I am in the process of looking for a really good RO/DI unit to purchase and wanted to know what are my best choices as far a manufactures go.
Any commets are welcome.

[firefighter22]

I got a R/O DI unit from www.aquariumobsessed.com

It's an Aquasafe model. 100 GPD. Very good price..TDS always 0..

E-mail them they'll help you

[Reefland]

I have a unit that is nice from AquaFx, a sponsor of our site. It is a 4 stage, 75gpd unit. For the most part, all units are the same, what you are looking for is a company with good customer service. The TDS of the unit is basically considered by the quality of the cartridges in the unit and how much they have been exhausted.

Regards,
Scott Z.

[Steve]

http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/

[Unresistible Blue]

Funny thing is that if you asked 100 owners of RO or RO/DI systems in this hobby, I think few would be able to provide information that would allow someone to compare the units "apples to apples."

Only some would know what brand of membrane came in their unit, and more inportantly, what the rejection rate is on their membrane. Few would look at the types of cartridges supplied with the unit (e.g., 10 micron carbon block or 1 micron block?).

So maybe the following will help:

On the cheaper units, some things you'll note:

Lower quality sediment filters (maybe 10 micron pore size rather than 5, or 1 micron)

Lower quality carbon blocks (large pore size, and low chlorine capacity [e.g., 2,000 gallons], phosphate leaching problems)

Use of GAC rather than carbon block

Low quality RO membrane (i.e., low rejection rate)

Low GPD capacity RO membrane

No DI

No pressure gauge

No auto shut off

Poor plumbing (high quality units are efficiently plumbed with a minimal amount of tubing)

No extra tubing provided to install the unit

No hardware to attach the unit to your home’s plumbing

No shunt to allow you easy access to RO water before it enters the DI housing

No flush valve

Hope this helps,
Blue

[Wind]

taggin along..

just curous if its possible to use one w/o hooking it up to the sink..

are these special ones?...

how do the work? =I sorry just unsure..

[Unresistible Blue]

Sure - you can hook them up in many ways - all you're trying to do is hook your water supply to the unit - check the plumbing fittings at the hardware store - there's lots of ways to do it.

[Poseidon]

Blue is right on all accounts...

but 0 tds is 0 TDS I bought a 75 GPD on ebay for 98 dollars including shipping it is RO/DI and has a 1 Micron membrane from DOW....

Hope that helps... Mike

[Unresistible Blue]

a "1 micron membrane?"

[Poseidon]

OOPS meant 75 GPD membrane and 1 Micron Sed filter...

Sorry!!! Must have been talking and Typing at work... Sometimes I get confused and my customer will say something like HUH?????
cause I'll say what I'm typing instead of what we were talking about....

[Wind]

where can i get more info about which ro/di is good

i was wondering if just a ro unit is good enough... mostly want to just use for top off.

any recommendations?.. 200 range or less

[Poseidon]

this is what I bought....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=20756

when I bought it, they said 85GPD... its not producing that much for me, but the water is well, and not at ideal temp either. But 98 Bux including shipping is hard to beat, and 0 TDS is 0 TDS...

http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...cat=504&page=1

[Rook]

I agree with Blue. I did quite a bit of research into the many various varieties of RO/DI units. After doing so, I decided against the cheaper models you find on E-bay and at some vendors. I went with a setup from ARS, specifically setup for removing chloramines and for tap water with high pH. While Poseiden is correct that 0 TDS is 0 TDS, the length of time that different units will run long term, the length of time that different filters and membranes needs to be replaced, and the customer service between different companies is drastically different between models. I found ARS to be the best deal on the best setup.

[Unresistible Blue]

this is what I bought....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=20756

when I bought it, they said 85GPD... its not producing that much for me, but the water is well, and not at ideal temp either. But 98 Bux including shipping is hard to beat, and 0 TDS is 0 TDS...

http://www.reefland.com/gallery/show...cat=504&page=1

I looked at that ebay add, and here are a few of my thoughts/opinions on the unit:

It uses a lower cost sediment filter with a relatively large pore size: 5 microns. No problem with that if it were followed by a 1 micron carbon block. However this unit uses 2 GAC cartridges - no carbon block at all.

Be carful - use your test kits to check for phosphate leaching from low cost GAC.

Why would the cartridges on this low cost unit last 12 months when cartridges on higher priced units last 6 months? Hmm.

Most be some really high tech process that allows a Filmtec membrane, that under lab conditions produces 100 gpd, to produce 110 gpd. Hmm.

Must be some really high tech process that allows a membrane with a rejection rate of 90% under perfect lab conditions to reject "95% to 98% of all chemical, dissolved solids." Hmm.

Use of an opaque in-line DI housing negates the utility of color-changing resin. You'll need to buy (typical retail is $27 to $50) and use a TDS meter to know when the DI resin is exhausted.

Use of a sealed in-line DI housing negates potential to use a refillable cartridge with economical bulk DI resin. Replacement in-line DI carts typically retail for $25-35. That's about double the cost of using a refillable cartridge. So you'll end up paying about $15 extra every few months for your DI function.

Blue

[Rook]

The in-line DI is a big area that these units are lacking. In-line DI are simply inferior to a standard seperate chamber DI. However, I did not get a color change DI, simple because ARS reccomended that the non-color change DI actually is a better product. The downfall is that you need a TDS meter to detemine when the DI needs to be replace, but I was going to get a TDS anyways, so I might as well get the better setup.

[Unresistible Blue]

The only advantage to using non color changing resin, assuming you're using the same resin - one with dye and one without, is that the color changing resin releases the dye into your tank. This dye can be measured in your tank water in ppb, and is generally considered harmless at that concentration.

Some people prefer to avoid this contaminant if they can, others have successfully used color-changing resin for years.

[hawk]

http://www.airwaterice.com/index.htm


check these out,i ordered the dual unit....is it going to be sufficiant?

sure are alot of MIKES in here

[Unresistible Blue]

http://www.airwaterice.com/index.htm


check these out,i ordered the dual unit....is it going to be sufficiant?

That's a link to Walter's home page. Which unit did you get?

Blue

[hawk]

That's a link to Walter's home page. Which unit did you get?

Blue

i bought the home/reef combo, who's walter one of your buds.

this unit is a five stage with all the quality cartridges i do believe with my limited knowledge.

[Wind]

i'm really sorry if anything that if this questions is wierd.. and what not


i was thinking of getting a ro/di, but i wasn't thinking of plumbing it to under a faucet sink, is it possible to have it as a portable one, and take it to any faucet opening and just make the water and then put it away??

im not sure what to get, and not really sure how it works ... seems too noobed =I. i was thinking spending about 200 for one, how often does the cartridge need to be changed?

perhaps some newbie threads or what not..

thanks =I