Questions on setup.

[anthworks]

I have posted these questions in another site.



My new reef tank will be 60 gallon acrylic cube with a 1 1/2 drilled overflow. I have a MAG 5 pump... Will this be enough for my return?
Any recommendations on a pump? External or internal. 700 gph?
My skimmer is the Aqua C Urchin w/ Maxijet 1200? Can I use the Mag 5 with the Urchin? Will it be to much flow for the skimmer?
I also have 30 pounds of established live rock.. I want to add 30 more pounds uncured to the new setup? Can I cycle it with the established rock? I know I will have some die off.

No fish, corals and Inverts (Snails, Hermits) in the tank. Thanks in advance.

[Reefland]

Hi anthworks!

If the amount of flow you can pass through the overflow is restricted, it will not be because of your 1.5" hole. My 75 gallon tank has a 1" drain however the overflow itself will not allow for more than 700gph to pass through it, even though the 1" drain will handle more. It is going to depend on the height of the overflow in conjuction with the height of the top of the tank and how many and haow large the slots are (if your using slots) in the overflow.

As far as the pump type and connection, I like running MAG's submersed, they are quite, fairly small and reliable for a decent price. A Mag 7 with some head will get you about 500gph so that might be your choice. I also like the AquaC Skimmers, it will probably be a good choice for your set-up, at least for now. Down the road you may decide on getting something a bit larger. Also, I think the Mag 5 will rock the skimmer, should be a good fit.

Lastly on the rock, I would add your 30 lbs on established rock and 30 lbs of uncured rock to the tank all at the same time and let it cycle with just it. Using 50% cured rock, it should only take your tank 3 weeks or so to cycle.

Scott Z.

[anthworks]

Steve great info thanks... One more question.

I setup a reef around 7 years ago and man things have changed. Berlin bare bottom was the only way. I kept LPS Coral under 200watt VHO's. Calcium reactors were for the extreme reef keeper and now they are almost a standard. SPS coral tanks were extremely rare and photographed for books. I remember the Reef Aquarium 1 (That was the best book for Reef hobby at the time) had pictures that I could not believe.. Now I see them posted all over the site. I have more cash and time and want a great system. What are some must have's?

I have a RODI and float switch. Any suggestions on Calcuim, PH and Alk upkeep? I was thinking the Kalk top off method as I did before?

Thanks again
Anthony

[Reefland]

Steve great info thanks... One more question.

The name is Scott but we'll let you slide this time.

I setup a reef around 7 years ago and man things have changed. Berlin bare bottom was the only way. I kept LPS Coral under 200watt VHO's. Calcium reactors were for the extreme reef keeper and now they are almost a standard. SPS coral tanks were extremely rare and photographed for books. I remember the Reef Aquarium 1 (That was the best book for Reef hobby at the time) had pictures that I could not believe.. Now I see them posted all over the site. I have more cash and time and want a great system. What are some must have's?

Your correct, a lot of things have changed but surprisingly, some still remain. For instance you mention bare-bottom tanks; many people still use these and I plan to transition to one in the next month or so, only because it will be easier for me to provide a lot of flow in the tank.

As for must have's, it really depends on what you want to keep for corals. If your going to maintain SPS corals and clams, Metal Halides are a must, prestine water quality, lot's of flow and proper, steady Calcium and Alkalinity readings. For those some people will say a CA Reactor is required, others say kalk does the trick. Some people use both. It is a matter of deciding which way you want to go and making it work for you. If you have the cash to spend, I would say a CA Reactor is a good purchase, they will easily maintain your ALK and CA requirements with little maintenance once they are dialed in. If you don't have the cash, go for a kalk drip or do like me and use a 2 part system. I used to use B-Ionic but now I use Ocean Blend with better results (well the levels are easier to maintain). Really need to search around and determine what is best for you and your budget.

I have a RODI and float switch. Any suggestions on Calcuim, PH and Alk upkeep? I was thinking the Kalk top off method as I did before?

Yeah a RO/DI unit is a must, good lighting, plenty of flow.... There are a lot of things, when your ready, I'd be happy to discuss specifics with you.

Thanks again

Anthony

What are the dimensions of the cube tank you have? I really like the looks of cube tanks.

Scott Z.

[anthworks]

Scott- (Got it correct this time)

The Cube is 24x24x24. It's going to sit on a Bar in my basement viewable on 3 sides. The plumbing will be tapped through the bar top to the sump below. I plan on a 250watt MH pend hanging above the tank. THe Mh pend has blue PC bulbs as well.


I have always done the kalk by itself.. setup float switch with lime water replacement. With the 2 part B-IOnic you need to dose in the Morning then in the night? The 2 parts cannot be added at the same time?

Can you keep LPS corals.. Leather, Mushrooms, button polyps under MH lighting? Maybe way down in the bottom.

[the_blue_tuna]

Scott who??...

You can add the B-ionic parts one after the other . I usually wait about 5 minutes between additions.

You can keep the softies mentioned under your pendant . The polyps will probably do well most anywhere in the upper 2/3 of the tank , given good flow. The leather and mushrooms will probably do best in the bottom 2/3 of the tank . You can play with the placement , until you find where they like it best before attaching permanently.

[anthworks]

Would you think the B-ionic is easier to manage then the Kalk? You then use plain fresh water for make up along with the B-ionic?