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Old 05-24-2004, 08:20 PM   #1
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For Scott

Well,

Here are the pics you asked for. My overflow is back to "flushing" now. I have not made any adjustments in a couple days. so now I have a crackle coming from my hose (considering hard plumbing to my sump in the hopes it quiets it down) and the flushing in the overflow itself. I have a Durso but ended up replacing with the stock pipe as it seemed to be quieter.

I can try to take some better pics if these are not the best quality

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:37 PM   #2
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For the overflow,

Cover the air hole in the top of the standpipe with your finger for a couple of minutes to see if the flushing gets worse or stays the same.

For the drain, I am not sure how to take "crackling" sound. Does it just sound like the water flowing through the flex hose at a high rate or something else?

Scott Z.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefland
For the overflow,

Cover the air hole in the top of the standpipe with your finger for a couple of minutes to see if the flushing gets worse or stays the same.

For the drain, I am not sure how to take "crackling" sound. Does it just sound like the water flowing through the flex hose at a high rate or something else?

Scott Z.
Yes Scott

The crackling is a high volume of water flowing through the pipe sound

*edit* putting my finger over the hole definately makes it "flush" more violently

Last edited by patsfan1130; 05-24-2004 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:43 PM   #4
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It is the same flushing noise just more often correct?

If it is the same noise, then the pipe is not receiving enough air. The airflow will have to be increased to eliminate the flushing. What about with your durso pipe?

The crackling noise through the flew may be the ridges with the high water flow, not sure. My guess there would be to convert to PVC.

Scott Z.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:52 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Reefland
It is the same flushing noise just more often correct?

If it is the same noise, then the pipe is not receiving enough air. The airflow will have to be increased to eliminate the flushing. What about with your durso pipe?

The crackling noise through the flew may be the ridges with the high water flow, not sure. My guess there would be to convert to PVC.

Scott Z.
Yes..the same exact sound/effect just more frequently

The Durso made the pipe to the sump sound much louder. I assume because it was trying to allow more water to the sump than the stock pipe? I will say that the Durso did not have the "flushing" effect. the water level in the overflow seemed quite constant.

Do you recommend me hard plumbing to the sump using a 45 or 90? or just straight down to the water? I have seen some people use a ball valve to adjust the water flow. If so, should I connect the ball valve directly to the small piece of PVC I already have attached to my bulkhead?
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:02 PM   #6
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Mark,

The durso makes the noise from the flex louder because it is allowing more air thus causing more friction inside the pipe. If the durso worked for the flushing, then I would go back to the durso and work on the drain.

For the drain, the less turns in it, the better. There is really no need to add a ball valve to the drain unless for some reason you might want to shut it off to prevent the water from the tank draining into the sump when YOU shut off a pump. Personally, I don't see any reason to add a ball valve to the drain. Just plumb it straight down into the sump with PVC. If you do need to make a turn, the use of 45 degree turns are less restrictive.

Scott Z.
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:07 PM   #7
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Mark,

The durso makes the noise from the flex louder because it is allowing more air thus causing more friction inside the pipe. If the durso worked for the flushing, then I would go back to the durso and work on the drain.

For the drain, the less turns in it, the better. There is really no need to add a ball valve to the drain unless for some reason you might want to shut it off to prevent the water from the tank draining into the sump when YOU shut off a pump. Personally, I don't see any reason to add a ball valve to the drain. Just plumb it straight down into the sump with PVC. If you do need to make a turn, the use of 45 degree turns are less restrictive.

Scott Z.
Thanks a ton Scott!!

I will get on this asap. One last question..I promise

I am looking to have the PVC a couple inches below the water level in the sump...correct?

Ok..I will stop harassing you now

Thanks again,

Mark
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:15 PM   #8
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I keep mine below my water level a slight bit so I don't think that would be a problem. For experimenting purposes, I would cut the PVC a couple of inches above, and add a coupling to push it below the water level that way if there are problems with it being submersed below the water level, you can remove the coupling and bring it above.

Scott Z.
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Old 05-25-2004, 08:25 PM   #9
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Any luck Mark?
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Old 05-25-2004, 09:34 PM   #10
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Any luck Mark?
None my friend

I have succesfully converted my sump into a boiling cauldron (like something out of a Harry Potter movie)

I am officially offering to purchase a round trip ticket to Boston to anyone willing to try and tame this beast..heh

Mark
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Old 05-25-2004, 09:37 PM   #11
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None my friend

I have succesfully converted my sump into a boiling cauldron (like something out of a Harry Potter movie)

I am officially offering to purchase a round trip ticket to Boston to anyone willing to try and tame this beast..heh

Mark
What's your take on this setup? The person who designed it seems to be happy with it. says to have had the same problems I am having
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Old 05-25-2004, 09:38 PM   #12
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How much flow are you pushing through the drain? Is the flushing resolved yet?

Scott Z.
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Old 05-25-2004, 09:40 PM   #13
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How much flow are you pushing through the drain? Is the flushing resolved yet?

Scott Z.
My flushing is resolved. I re installed the Durso and all is good on that end. The drain has a flow rate of 600-700 gph I believe
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Old 05-25-2004, 09:46 PM   #14
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And the problem now is that there is so much flow coming into the sump from the 1 drain pipe it is making a lot of noise right?
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:08 PM   #15
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And the problem now is that there is so much flow coming into the sump from the 1 drain pipe it is making a lot of noise right?
Correct Scott

"A lot of noise" would be the understatement of the year.
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:10 PM   #16
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What about putting a t in the drain line right at the bottom of the bulkhead to split the flow into 2 pipes?

Scott Z.
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:32 PM   #17
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What about putting a t in the drain line right at the bottom of the bulkhead to split the flow into 2 pipes?

Scott Z.
There's another good idea

Make no mistake...I WILL win this battle and will try anything & everything. Hell, I have more PVC here than HD does (I bought em out)

Thanks Scott
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:35 PM   #18
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LOL! Just a thought to try and reduve the velocity of water coming out of the single drain.

Scott Z.
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Old 06-09-2004, 08:25 AM   #19
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I think I'm having a similar problem. I am using the stock Oceanic standpipe with the Megaflow overflow. The overflow box itself is pretty quiet and the water level is constant. But there is an echoing bubbling noise coming from the drain pipe in my sump. "Boiling cauldron" would be an accurate description. Is there a way to fix this, or is this as quiet as it's going to get? Any help would be appreciated.

PS - Did you get yours worked out Patsfan?
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:45 AM   #20
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I think I'm having a similar problem. I am using the stock Oceanic standpipe with the Megaflow overflow. The overflow box itself is pretty quiet and the water level is constant. But there is an echoing bubbling noise coming from the drain pipe in my sump. "Boiling cauldron" would be an accurate description. Is there a way to fix this, or is this as quiet as it's going to get? Any help would be appreciated.

PS - Did you get yours worked out Patsfan?
I spent weeks trying to "quiet the beast". I have more PVC than HD now

But I DID fix it. It is not my design. I got it from another fellow reefer. made a couple changes to the idea. I drilled a hole in the cap on the T to allow water/air to exit. I can hardly hear it now. could not be more pleased.
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