[Samper]

My method of thinking might be incorrect but
1. I wanted to increase my biodiversity if possible
2. I wanted a little buffering action going on although you're correct it won't be noticable.
3. With the way my system plumbing is going to work I don't expect much deitrus to even make its way up there.

[ereefic]

1. Sure worms and all that other stuff are neat, but what purpose are they really serving?

2. Doubt your going to get any buffering from a DSB. If your pH drops low enough it may buffer your water, but then it wouldn't matter.

3. I didn't think i'd get much detritus up in my little fuge, but it get's there. Now I can see it and I can sypon it out.

[Samper]

Dangit, I planned this thing to be out in the open and nice looking, now it sounds like I either need to have a dsb in the display which I wasn't planning on or leaving it all BB and just having a ball of cheato in there.......how nice that'll look.

[ereefic]

I'm not telling you not to do it, i'm mearly giving you something to think about.

The whole idea of a BB system is to get the detritus out of the system before it breaks down and fouls the tank. Adding a DSB anywhere in this system will be counterproductive IMO.

You could certainly try it and you may have very good success with it, I don't know. But if problems arise, you can take the fuge offline and remove/replace the DSB mush easier than tearing the tank apart to tear out a DSB.

With all this being said, I run a DSB softie, LPS and Clam system that is working fine. How long will it work fine? Who knows, but all that crap has to come to a head sometime, and with our stocking levels it's probably going to be sooner rather than later.

[Samper]

This thread is all over the place but IMO a good healthy sand bed as long as it isn't disturbed too much will never have any problems. I think that atleast once a year they might need to be replenished with some of the kits available online. They will always be somewhat alive but a lot of the animals don't sustain their populations over time and need to be replenished for the overall health of the bed.

The 75g will be mostly sps and if I didn't want insane flow I'd definately have a dsb in the display.

[ereefic]

I don't think i've ever seen a thread stay on track, questions always get asked and we wander.

I feel that DSB will eventually fill up at some point. That's just what I believe.

Many people run awesome SPS tanks with DSB, no doubt. Many people run awesome tanks using every system. My point being, do whatever you feel comfortable with. That's all.

[Samper]

I will take your advice into consideration but at the same time am hoping some others chime in, if I got a unanimous vote against it then I'll stay away from the dsb in the fuge. If some say yes and some say no I'll weigh the arguements very carefully. Thanks very much though for your imput so far.

[Samper]

Well, I talked to George the guy who makes the Geo reactors. He knew who you were Gene and appreciated you pointing me his way. I'm going to order one on the first and in the mean time try to find a co2 bottle locally for a cheaper price.
He told me that for the smaller tank I need to use the arm media and that when I upgrade to the 75 he recommends the larger grains. He mentioned Koralith and that he seemed to like the way it works with his reactors.

Now I need to know what regulator I need and do I need a solenoid or not? What's the difference and why are they more expensive with them?

[ereefic]

The M3 regulators seem to be praised as one of the best regulators. That is what i'm using and have had no problems with it. I believe premiumaquatics sells them.

Do you need a selinoid? Personally, I would recommend getting one, along with a pH controller. Some people run there reactors with out them, but it is a nice safety measure as well as makes tuning the reactor much easier.

You can use a controller 2 ways, measure the pH of the effluent of the reactor or you can masure the pH of the tank. If the pH drops below the set point (that you set) of whatever your monitoring, it will turn off the CO2 until you pH rises above that setpoint.

My reactor effluent is running at a pH of 6.7, if my effluent pH drops to 6.5 it'll shut off the CO2, keeping my media from turning to mush.

I use a Milwaukee SMS 122 pH controller, it only reads to x.x as where the pinpoint will read to x.xx , but it's half the price and IMO you don't need to read to x.xx

[Samper]

Thank you very much I'll check into the M3.

[ereefic]

Originally Posted by Samper

Thank you very much I'll check into the M3.

I think there is a needlevalve upgrade or something you can get with that regulator. Not sure if the one that comes with it is that good or not. May want to check with premium about it. But I believe they offer a more precise needlevalve for it, I think.

[Samper]

Well now for CO2 tanks. I've been looking around and found some fairly cheap on some beer making sites.



http://www.beveragefactory.com/draft...anks/co2.shtml

Can I go this route? Are all the tanks offered for beer making, reef keeping etc the same?

[ereefic]

Yep, those should be fine.

I got a aluminium bottle with my set-up. When I went to have it filled, I could only exchange my bottle for a full one, they don't fill them there. If I wanted to have the bottle filled, i'd have to drive 25 miles in order to keep the same bottle.

Check with your local gas joint and see how they do it. I know you can rent bottles as well. They may even do a rent to own deal, might make it worth it. But just so you know, you may not get to keep your bottle depending on the gas places you have near you.

[Samper]

I'll check with them before ordering for sure. I'm not buying a brand new bottle to have it taken for an old one. Thanks!!

[zhenya]

Originally Posted by Samper

I'll check with them before ordering for sure. I'm not buying a brand new bottle to have it taken for an old one. Thanks!!

Samper, check your local listings for some companies that are either fire protection or welding supply companies/stores. I fill my tanks at the AAA fire protection(or prevention) company. They sell extinguishers and other stuff and also fill tanks. I also bought older 10 lbs bottle from them for 15 bucks and now have two. I just replace them and go for the refill

I also have M3 regulator with solenoid but I don't run PH controller, although it is a good plan to have one. I just use PH monitor to monitor my PH and since I am home most of the time I control the CO2.

[Samper]

I've been reading all day about the controllers, I understand what they do but not how they operate. Can you elaborate?

Thanks for the heads up on the used tanks I'll find one.

[zhenya]

Originally Posted by Samper

I've been reading all day about the controllers, I understand what they do but not how they operate. Can you elaborate?

Thanks for the heads up on the used tanks I'll find one.

I think they operate in the way that you need to find a way to install your PH probe somewhere to have contact with water exiting reaction chamber. If PH drops below the point that you had set on your controller the controller will shut down CO2 via solenoid. I believe George Webber(GEO) was working on something that would let you have PH probe on the piece of PVC on the top of the chamber. You might want to give him a yell and ask him if he implemented it or not.

[ereefic]

I made a drip cup out of an empty kent's superbuffer container. Rigged upa little holder for it to hang on the edge of the sump. Effluent lines drip into it and the probe sits in there as well, monitoring the effluent. It's very simple to make and very cheap as well.

[Reefland]

That's a pretty good idea ereefic! I was just thinking how I could get the probe to just measure the effluent and you gave me a way.

[Samper]

With me being gone every now and then do you guys think it's better that I buy the controller?