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Impending Doom? |
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#1 |
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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Impending Doom?
I bought a used 125 gallon all-glass aquarium with 6 ft hamilton lights. It also came with an turboflotor 1000 protein skimmer, magnum 350, aquafx ro/di filter, 6 powerheads (5 maxi-jet 295 gph and another smaller one), dual overflow, and a 20 gallon sump tank. I paid $600 for it all. I have it all set up and everything is running except the sump because the water level is not high enough because I am about to buy 100 lbs of live rock and don't want it to overflow. That means the protein skimmer is not running yet either. I purchased 120lbs of Nature's Ocean Bio-Active Live Aragonite reef sand. I was going to put this in today and then get the 100lbs of live rock tomorrow. The live rock has been cured at least 2 months here locally. My questions are:
1. Can I add fish on wednesday (day after lr)? 2. My mag drive pumps 700 gph up to the tank. Will my overflow allow 700gph down to the sump? 3. Do I have enough powerheads? 4. Should I wait one day after adding live sand to add the cured lr or do both as soon as possible? 5. My sump is 24x12x16 1/2". The turboflotor takes up about half. How can I make a refugium out of it? Can I just get a piece of glass and epoxy it in as a baffle? Would a 12" section make any difference? The return pump would be on the refugium side but would the sand have an effect on the pump? 6. Are there any problems that you guys can see happening that I have not planned for? Thanks! |
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#2 | |||||
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,495
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Ninong |
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#3 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 18
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new (for you) aquarium setup
good purchase!
Q1: I would actually hold off and wait at least 4~5 days and make sure all water tests are coming out the way you want them. Once you add the sand it will be very cloudy, you'll really want this to settle. Adding cured LR is not too big of deal, although, since you are using new sand,water it MAY have a mini-cycle. You will go through the usual diatom bloom new tank issues. Q2: You don't mention what size your overflow is.. If its 1", yes, it will handle this amount just fine. Q3: I personally like the 10x turnover rate, and it seems like this is right in the ballpark. Q4: I would add both same day, but you may have to take a turkey baster and blast some of the sand off the rocks in a couple days when everything settles down. Q5: Depending upon the flow rate of the sump, you may not be able to. I have seen some sumps where you have the inlet section, outlet section, then at the end a refugium. The refugium doesn't want/need a high turnover rate. If your thinking of growing macro, you need to make sure it tumbles and not get sucked up into the return. Q6: You don't make mention of your tank being drilled.. If this is not the case, you seriously need to look and test for siphon breakage before 3/4 of your tank volume is now on your living room rug. I would also once your live rock/sand is in, turn on your skimmer and let it micro bubble itself out and make sure all is working properly. Catching anything after the fact is a nightmare you don't want. |
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#4 | |||
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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I don't have built in overflows. I have a dual hang on overflow. Quote:
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Thanks |
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#5 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,007
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Hi cofstl411,
I'll answer your last question first. I think you should look into what you really want to do with your substrate. If you are looking for just a covering of sand for aesthetic purposes, you could definitely ditch the bio-active stuff (which isn't useful either way and a waste of money) and just use some dry aragonite sand. If you are wanting the substrate to be functional (a live deep sand bed), still ditch the bio-active stuff and go with a whole lot of dry aragonite sand and seed it with some true live sand. If you would like some more info, do a search for DSB or deep sand bed to do some reading. ![]() 1. No - Even though you are using fully cured liverock, it would be better to wait at least a week to ensure the tank has stabalized and no cycle will occur. If after monitoring the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for a week and if there is no spikes in ammonia and nitrate, then add your first hardy fish. 2. If this is a standard aga with standard overflows, then it will handle this flow with no problem. I am guessing that it has dual overflows to which you should be able to push ~2,000 gph through the overflow. Keep in mind the drains and the sump might become a bottleneck. 3. Depends on what you are planning to keep really. To me, the more flow the better. 4. There are 2 ways to go about this. 1 is if you add them together, you'll limit the time your tank is cloudy but will also risk the rock getting covered in sand and that will take work to clean up. The other way is to add the sand and then once it settles, add the rock. The downfall is the tank will most likely get cloudy again but your rock won't get covered in sand. 5. Any size refugium is beneficial. The key is to get it incorporated and still have room for baffles to remove bubbles. |
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#6 | ||
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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thanks Last edited by cofstl411; 02-21-2005 at 01:33 PM. |
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#7 | |||
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 19,495
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Don't add a fish to your tank just because it is hardy. Purchase a hardy fish as your first fish only if it is something you really want to keep. Never add fish to a newly set up aquarium. Always test your water parameters for at least a couple of weeks first to make sure things are going according to plan. And be aware of the fact that some species of fish should not be added for at least six months.
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Ninong |
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#8 |
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Just Moved In
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 18
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Re: Doom
The duel 3/4" should be fine for the 700gph. Be aware that the reason many people use duels is as a safety net in case one gets blocked. So, you will want to block one up and test the flow rate (and noise). You may want to keep the word "Durso" in the back of your mind.
The easiest way to test for an overflow condition is to fill your tank till its just starting to overflow into the sump, fill the sump 1/3 ~ 1/2 and start your pump. Allow to run making sure all is working as it should, then turn off the pump. Depending upon how far down your overflow pipes go depends on how much volume your sump needs to hold. Once you have the perfect balance, start your pump again then draw a line on your sump stating the MAX water line and do not fill beyond this point. Last edited by pavesi; 02-21-2005 at 01:46 PM. |
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#9 | |||
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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#10 | |
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
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#12 | |
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Tenant
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 87
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