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Old 08-23-2005, 11:25 AM   #1
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Question Sump Set-up

I would greatly appreciate some help in setting up a sump/overflow box set-up.

Some background information, I have a 72 Gal bowfront. I have purchased a 30Gal high tank (the largest that will fit under my stand), 4 Plexiglass strips - cut to 12'' x 9", a Mag 9.5 pump, a Super Skimmer 125 (which I plan to install in the sump). a 1 1/4" outlet check valve, a length of 1 1/4' ID flexible hose; a length of 7/8" ID hose, a ball joint with fittings that fit into the 7/8" hose, and last but not least a Lifereef slimline overflow box set-up.


To be candid, I have been sitting on these items for many months for two reasons. First, because I don't have a clue on how pull it all together; and more importantly I am paranoid regarding the risk of an overflow/spill. My tank set-up is in a third floor study in my home - any spillage would go through several floors, and represent unacceptable damage/expense. When I purchased the tank set-up almost a year ago, the clerk convinced me that I did not need to purchase a reef ready tank (despite the fact that it cost only $85 more). I have kicked myself many times for the added expense and risk of the overflow solution.


While I have procrastinated on my sump solution, my nitrates have continued to slowly rise, (and I have lost several corals) and I know that I need to bite the bullet and solve the problem.

- My first question then is: How real is the risk of an overflow with the system that I am planning to install (lifereef w/ check valve)?

- And the main question, which is - does anyone have a detailed diagram of how an overflow system is set-up. My questions are very basic, where does the check valve go, should both my hoses be the same ID, if not, then which side should have the smaller ID (I would assume that the downflow side should be smaller), Is the mag 9.5 the right size, where should I place the plexiglass in the sump, should I add any other features to the sump (i.e. a refuglium) etc.

Finally, I have a slightly cracked CPR 900 wet/dry combo that I picked up at a tent sale for virtually nothing (it was too large to fit under my tank). Are there parts of that system that can be incorporated into my sump (the plastic filter media, black cover, plastic screens, etc)?

I would really appreciate any help that can be provided.
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:15 PM   #2
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ill leave the design stuff for more experts, but do not use that cpr thing if it has the overflow......


just the sump part is opk.. but the overflow.. will do just that on to your floor!

i have a regular overflow box... on my tank//

iy flows (larger hose) into my first sump chaber, where the skimmer is also located, then there is a partition (plexi) that is sealed to the sides and floor of the sump, the water has to flow over it.. the next chamber is my refugium... then there is a piece of plexi that is only mounted to the sides , the water flows ubder it, then about an inch after that another piece of plexi sealed again to the sides and bottom.. the water flows over it into the chamber with my return pump....


now the only thing i would want different is that after the refugium, that it went like this
water over, water under, water over.. so 3 pieces of plexi instead of 2.
so you want the water to flow in, then over into the refugium, then over, under, over into the sump chamber..

make your plexi cuts so that they are not real high into the tank.. this will allow for a power outage and any back flow ....

but you have a check that would go inline with the pump returning to the tank.. ill snap a few pics of mine to show you...
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:27 PM   #3
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here is the first section where the water drops in and then goes over the first partition
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:28 PM   #4
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another pic of the first piece of plexi how it is in there..
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:29 PM   #5
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this is my full sump.. you can see my partitions and seperate chambers.. i hope..
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:30 PM   #6
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here is a pic from the side.. the white pvc is my return plumbing.. the black box on the far side is my overflow stuff
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:50 PM   #7
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another
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltjunkie
ill leave the design stuff for more experts, but do not use that cpr thing if it has the overflow......


just the sump part is opk.. but the overflow.. will do just that on to your floor!
Do you know this first hand? My CPR, my friend Matts, and my friend Jamies, have all been running problem free for YEARS! I think CPR got a bad rap from people not FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS! If you have ever looked at one, you can tell they are high quality and work great! SO stop hatin' on CPR!

As far as your sump goes, it is really simple. The trick is to make sure more water can flow into the sump then the pump can push back into the tank. I would use the smaller diameter hose for your pump. There are lots of "sump" threads here, I am sure even some that you have started

I will post some more pics tonight after work for you...
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:32 PM   #9
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Thanks guys, in the meantime, I will take a look at some of the old threads.

My tank/sump has a height of roughly 15". Is the 9" height of my baffels too high, or about the right amount of clearance height?

Poseidon, you stated that the trick is to have greater flow from the tank to the sump. I'm a bit confussed, I thought that it was esential to maintain an equalibrium between both up flow and down flow, or eventually the sump would overflow (or is that what the check valve prevents)?
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poseidon
Do you know this first hand? My CPR, my friend Matts, and my friend Jamies, have all been running problem free for YEARS! I think CPR got a bad rap from people not FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS! If you have ever looked at one, you can tell they are high quality and work great! SO stop hatin' on CPR!

As far as your sump goes, it is really simple. The trick is to make sure more water can flow into the sump then the pump can push back into the tank. I would use the smaller diameter hose for your pump. There are lots of "sump" threads here, I am sure even some that you have started

I will post some more pics tonight after work for you...
yes, had one, with the cpr wet/dry skimmer combo.. hated it.. the sump part is still in action today at a friends house. the overflow, i could not stand leaving the house when i had that thing!






sump,
the pump, along with the overflow will equal everything out.. thats why you have to have a quality overflow set up...
the pump will pump in water to the tank.. then the overflow, will drain... as long as the pump isnt giant, the overflow will only flow what is pumped into it.. thats what the box inside the tank does
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Old 08-23-2005, 02:52 PM   #11
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[quote=saltjunkie]yes, had one, with the cpr wet/dry skimmer combo.. hated it.. the sump part is still in action today at a friends house. the overflow, i could not stand leaving the house when i had that thing!




I will be using the Lifereef overflow. I understand that it is a pretty reliable overflow. I find the debate over the merits of CPR, Lifereef, and others interesting. To me, the overflows appear to be such simple devices that one should be as good as the next. But than again, I don't even know how to set-up the damn thing.
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:01 PM   #12
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Exactly, if the overflow can handle ALL that the pump puts out you have a "balance" automatically. It is when the pump puts out more then the overflow can handle that you have to restrict the pumps output. Or in my case if the output of the pump is too much for the tank to handle! A MAG12 works great for a 6' tank, my new 4' tank.... Not so much. I had waves FLOWING over the sides, and constant sand storm... so I have it closed back to about 75%...
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Old 08-25-2005, 09:37 AM   #13
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There is a wealth of knowledge available from reading previous threads - thanks.

I have been able to get some good information on the design of the sump, and the basic overflow to sump, back to tank plumbing.

Please confirm for me the following assumptions - the ball joint valve, is placed between the return pump and the tank (in order to ensure that the return flow does not overwelm the outflow). I also understand that it is best to use PVC platic "pipes" for the return configuration?

I also am under the impression that the "siphon break" (two smal drilled holes in the tubing) is placed just below the water line on the pipe that brings the water from the tank into the overflow box. Please confirm.

and finally, I am still a bit confused regarding the placement and operation of the check valve. I purchased a check valve for HD which is intended for a basement sump pump applcation. Where does it go?

ThanK you.
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSump
There is a wealth of knowledge available from reading previous threads - thanks.

I have been able to get some good information on the design of the sump, and the basic overflow to sump, back to tank plumbing.

Please confirm for me the following assumptions - the ball joint valve, is placed between the return pump and the tank (in order to ensure that the return flow does not overwelm the outflow). I also understand that it is best to use PVC platic "pipes" for the return configuration?
yes, pvc only, no metal parts, and the ball valve is placed in-line with the return pump, pumping back into the tank

I also am under the impression that the "siphon break" (two smal drilled holes in the tubing) is placed just below the water line on the pipe that brings the water from the tank into the overflow box. Please confirm.
NO>>>>> the siphon break if used is exactly as you say, on the return pump, from the pump in the sump, to the tank.
its on the pump part that is inside the tank.. do you follow what i said there.. it seems odd how i said it..,


and finally, I am still a bit confused regarding the placement and operation of the check valve. I purchased a check valve for HD which is intended for a basement sump pump applcation. Where does it go?
again it is on the return pump side.. there should be an arrowon the check valve...
put that inline with your pump, the arrow showing the direction of flow, from the pump to the tank.. when power goes off, your plumbing inside the tank form the pump, will create a reverse siphon , the check valve will prevent this...as will the 2 earlier mentioned anti sipon holes...
not real sure why you would need or want both???


ThanK you.
and i made a pic with microsoft paint.. i am no means an artist here.. but maybe it will help a lil bit...
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:39 PM   #15
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and i made a pic with microsoft paint.. i am no means an artist here.. but maybe it will help a lil bit...
Saltjunkie:

Thank you very much - that is exactly what I needed to pull it all together.

So the siphon break and the check valve serve the same purpose. Is there any value in some redundancy, or is it basically pointless to have both on the same line?
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:15 PM   #16
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I just use the siphon break myself. It didn't cost anything to drill a hole!
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Old 08-25-2005, 09:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSump
Saltjunkie:

Thank you very much - that is exactly what I needed to pull it all together.

So the siphon break and the check valve serve the same purpose. Is there any value in some redundancy, or is it basically pointless to have both on the same line?
i have neither..
my outlet is just below the water surface,, as the water bach siphons.. it starts pulling in air pretty quickly... i doint have it submerged that deep..
and besides, the hole can and will get clogged with algae and other what nots..
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