[mickey57]

,,,,,,,,,,I changed all the filters,resin and Membrain on my Spectra-pure 4 stage.I have been filling tanks,no stop since tuesday evening,,,Just 40gpd,,I want to keep this thing running 24/7 for all the tanks I have.
...Problem after 55gal is the the TDS was starting to head up...Now at 105gals The TDS is at .019.....The Sediment filter is a .05 micron.Is this causeing the rise?I still have two 72gals,two 46gals and a 180 to fill. Which filter should I change now?I have a replacement set but didn't Think I would need it after 100gals Kinda puts a kink in my plans here....could it already be the damn resin????????? I starte with a TDS of 370.$250 for 100gals of 0 TDS water is pretty screwed up:slap:
..................Mickey

[golfish]

What TDS meter are you using? Are you using a DI cartridge?

[Randy]

So your tap water is TDS~370 ppm
TDS~.019 is what you are getting now

That is still kind of low isn't it? What TDS reading did you have a while before you changed the filters? Did you normally get TDS~00.00?

Did you let the RO/DI unit run a few hours before filling your tanks? The new carbon filters let out quite a bit of fine "carbon dust" for a while before they begin to clear up.

I would test your TDS reading again, not in your tank, but in a clean cup, from your RO/DI unit.

[Reefland]

I don't think I would worry with the TDS until it was at 10 or so (my TDS meter don't measure tenths). At that point, change your sediment filter and DI resin.

[mickey57]

Originally Posted by Randy

So your tap water is TDS~370 ppm
TDS~.019 is what you are getting now:YES

That is still kind of low isn't it? What TDS reading did you have a while before you changed the filters?157 Did you normally get TDS~00.00?Had the idiot light that spectra rigs with the unit,until I stompd on the damn thing!Just getting back into the SPS after my devistation resut from Frances the Hurricane..Lost all SPS,Comong back full force and am going to do it right this time...Generator and all

Did you let the RO/DI unit run a few hours before filling your tanks? The new carbon filters let out quite a bit of fine "carbon dust" for a while before they begin to clear up. Yeap,Feed the water to my discus

I would test your TDS reading again, not in your tank, but in a clean cup, from your RO/DI unit.

Just Did this Morning....I got a .003ppm
....................................
..........Golfish,
....I am using the Hanna TDS 1***range 0-999 ppm
.......................................Yes this is a 4-stage RO/DI
..............................
.....Thanks Reefland......003 @ Gal# 130.........Must have been something in the cup I used,besides water!

[Randy]

Sounds like you're on track now.

[Reefland]

Ahh, glad you got it figured out.

[mickey57]

Thanks Guys'.It was late and I didn't want to shut this thing down and derail what I had going ahead of it.I pushed the red button to soonIt is cranking out 0 TDS now and a few more days to go Looooooots of Water to change...and change ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and change
.................Using Halite (Morton Salt),and adding additives..anyone done this?
......................

[golfish]

glad to hear your back on track. FWIW, I've been using a Sperctrapure CSP80 for 6 years. IME, you can't get a better unit.

[Reefland]

Using Halite (Morton Salt),

Huh?

[mickey57]

Mickey,
No problem. It's actually very simple. You take dechlorinated water (deionized or whatever,) just as you would normally use to mix saltwater. You add halite (I buy Morton "Safe-T Salt," for about $3.60 for a 25 pound bag. It's just mined rock salt, hence the name "halite,") and mix until you get the desired specific gravity.
While you're mixing the salt, you add a marine buffer, according to the instructions - generally dissolve it in dechlorinated fresh water and pour it into your mixing container. (I actually like to double up on the Seachem Marine Buffer when I'm mixing new salt,) and some trace elements, according to instructions. I use Kent Marine "Essential Elements." Then you've got your saltwater. Pretty easy, right?
You should be able to find Safe-T salt, AKA Halite, at various grocery stores, hardware stores, and megamarts. I think they even sometimes sell it at automotive supply shops, tire shops, etc, especially when the sidewalks might get icy. (Safe-T Salt is marketed for de-icing purposes, but that doesn't mean you have to use it for that purpose.) As for the buffer and trace minerals, I buy mine from www.drsfostersmith.com . By the way, if you find halite that isn't all white, i.e. has grey or red color in some of it, find another halite, such as Morton's. The off colors would indicate mineral impurities. Many minerals won't dissolve readily (and will precipitate out if they're already dissolved) in 8.3 pH water, but it's better to avoid such off-color salt.
As I mentioned before, halite is the usual and preferred starting material for companies that "manufacture" salt mixes. As you can imagine, they really mark up the price.
P.S., here are the links to the two products I mentioned, over at www.drsfostersmith.com :
Kent Marine Essential Elements (I buy the 16 oz or 64 oz size):
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...pc=1&N=0&Nty=1
Seachem Marine Buffer (I always buy the large size):
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...1&N=2004&Nty=1
Dan