[BubbaWPB]

It is effective against bacteria and algae spores... that's why I'm putting it on my system... but it only reduces the bacteria, algae spores and some free-swimming paracites... it does not irradicate them from the tank.

[Poseidon]

Ahhh I see. I think it is a good idea, I am planning on adding it to my system.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by BubbaWPB

I got a 36 W UV sterilizer (Coralife Turbo-Twist)... from what I read, it's not the most efficient unit, but UV sterilizers are only "adjunctive" for clearing the water anyway... they won't wipe out any critter, bug, algae, or protozoan when in a recirculating tank anyway. So I saved a few bucks over my first choice and got 11 additional watts.

A good, properly sized UV lamp will kill anything and everything that passes through the tube with adequate dwell time. A dosage of 90,000 microwatts/cm^2 is what you should be shooting for if you want to achieve one-pass kills on nasties such as Cryptocaryon irritans. However, even if you don't have a 100% kill rate on the first pass, if you are turning over the tank volume at least three times per hour, you should achieve pretty good results with multiple passes because the same nasties will be getting zapped over and over again.

This is one of those areas where it doesn't pay to go cheapy. Some UV lamps are better than others. I think a good 57w lamp would have been a good choice for your size tank but a good 40w would be adequate. The 57w size would allow you to turn over the tank volume five times per hour without compromising the dosage. With a 36w lamp, you're going to have to reduce the flow rate to about 400gph to achieve adequate dosage, even for a good, efficient lamp.

The argument against using UV lamps doesn't have much to do with whether they can be effective or not, it has more to do with the fact that properly sized they can be very effective. In other words, they kill everything that passes through them -- the good, the bad and the merely ugly. Some people choose to avoid them for that very reason. On the other hand, they are quite popular with hobbyists running very expensive mega-reeftanks because they add an extra measure of safety in that they greatly reduce the probability of parasitic infestation or even things like RTN. It's all a matter of weighing the pros and the cons to determine if a UV is something you want to go with. I can see good arguments on both sides but I now think that they are a wise investment for anyone setting up a fairly large SPS-dominated reef aquarium.

I think it's a good idea for your 265-gal tank but I think you would have been better off going for a better, more expensive model. I like the 57w UltraViolet models, with wiper, because they're shorter than the standard 40w models and they give you 17 more watts. UltraViolet has a nice sizing chart on their website (that I've posted in previous threads on Reefland). Note that the dosage listed refers to EOL (end of life) measurements. They use 14 months as EOL for their lamps. Dosage at beginning of lamp life is much higher. (P.S. -- Comparing UV lamps of the same wattage is about as useful (or useless) as comparing metal halide lamps of the same wattage -- some 175w metal halide lamps are three times as effective as other 175w metal halide lamps by actual PAR measurement.)

P.S. -- Steve Weast runs a 200w AquaUltraViolet UV lamp on his tank:

[BubbaWPB]

I've got an Aqua UV with a wiper on my 75. The problem with the wiper is that calcium precipitates on the wiper rod, in addition to the quartz, and when you pull the rod in and out to wipe the quartz, the calcium on the rod wears the rubber seal down causing leaking around the rod after a while. I've had to replace the wiper rod seal twice in the last 8 months. It would work great for wiping slime off the quartz, but not calcium (which builds up on the quartz due to the heat of the light anyway). I was thinking of the Aqua UV unit without a wiper rod for the 75, but I went with the other and saved more than just a few bucks. I did it knowing it wasn't the most efficient killing unit.

The other problem with using a UV on a recirculating system (instead of single pass sterilization) is like the old math problem... "If you take half of something, then take half of what is left, then keep taking a half of what is left over and over, how long until you get it all? Never." (it's the ole calculus limit thingy). Even with a 100% kill rate, espcically since the bugs are still breeding, you may never irradicate the population.

[BubbaWPB]

Originally Posted by NinongP.S. -- [URL="http://oregonreef.com/sub_equipment.htm"

Steve Weast runs a 200w AquaUltraViolet UV lamp[/url] on his tank:

His tank/sump/refugium is a gallon or two more volume than my itsy bitsy 265, too! I'm planning on adding ozone when the tank is finished cycling and running well. That also helps with the "sterilization".

[BubbaWPB]

OK. I've read the directions and even seen it printed in the latest volume of Delbeek and Sprung about bulkheads... you put the o-ring on the side of the glass with the water, and be sure not to over-tighten. Fine.

Now for the questions:

1. Why does everyone I know use silicone sealant on the bulkheads? (When the directions don't mention it.)

2. Are there any disadvantages of using the silicone sealant?

2. When using the silicone sealant (aquarium grade, of course), do you use the silicone o-ring, too? Do you goop it up on both sides of the o-ring? Do you silicone goop the outside seal, too?

The ever curious,
Bubba

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by BubbaWPB

The other problem with using a UV on a recirculating system (instead of single pass sterilization) is like the old math problem... "If you take half of something, then take half of what is left, then keep taking a half of what is left over and over, how long until you get it all? Never." (it's the ole calculus limit thingy). Even with a 100% kill rate, espcically since the bugs are still breeding, you may never irradicate the population.

Yes, but it's effective enough that those people running large UV units don't usually have these problems in the first place. In the case of C. irritans, the free-swimming stage is only viable for a few hours. It must find a suitable host within that time or it will die. Chances are very good that a very high percentage of them will be drawn into the overflow in a high-water current tank before they succeed in finding a host. You can operate a good quarantine policy and mitigate the need for a UV unit in the first place or you can go the double-safe route of running quarantine and heavy UV.

I have a 40w AquaUltraViolet unit (without wiper) that I bought five years ago as a clarifier for a pond that has never been built. One thing led to another and the pond project has just been on hold forever. We don't want to build it now because we're probably going to be selling this house within the next two years anyway.

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by BubbaWPB

OK. I've read the directions and even seen it printed in the latest volume of Delbeek and Sprung about bulkheads... you put the o-ring on the side of the glass with the water, and be sure not to over-tighten. Fine.

Now for the questions:

1. Why does everyone I know use silicone sealant on the bulkheads? (When the directions don't mention it.)

That's because some people think it's a good idea. Someone convinced me that I should use it to "fix" a problem I was having with one bulkhead when I set up my tank three years ago. It DIDN'T fix the problem. For one thing, the stuff I used was NOT the safe kind because it was intended for bathroom use. I had to go back and take all of it out of the bottom of my overflow compartment. This was an extremely time-consuming and annoying task, as well as hazardous to my life and limb. Just thinking about this debacle give me an upset stomach!

2. Are there any disadvantages of using the silicone sealant?

You got me? I know I wouldn't use it. Some folks use it to seal around the bulkhead inside the tank after it has already been installed. That's what I did but then I found out that I had used the wrong kind and I had to take it all out.

2. When using the silicone sealant (aquarium grade, of course), do you use the silicone o-ring, too?

Yes.

Do you goop it up on both sides of the o-ring?

No. You don't use it on the o-ring at all.

Do you silicone goop the outside seal, too?

If you insist on using it, just install the bulkhead according to instructions (meaning the o-ring goes on the side with water) and then after you have finished installing the bulkhead, apply silicone around the perimeter of the bulkhead inside the aquarium. It won't stay put because every time you play around with the plumbing under the tank, you will accidentally loosen the bulkhead unless you were an expert plumber in the first place when you installed everything, which I certainly wasn't. Every time I remove my return pump for maintenance, I accidentally cause a slight leak in that one return bulkhead but it goes away on its own after about 36 hours.

People on here are going to tell you it's a good idea to use silicone. Some people may even tell you to put it on the o-ring. I'm just not one of those people.



P.S. -- My next tank (the dream tank) is going to have schedule 80 bulkheads! You can only do this if the tank is custom built because the bulkhead holes have to be slightly larger than for standard schedule 40 fittings and none of the manufacturers go that route on their stock tanks.

[BubbaWPB]

Thanks again, Ninong, I always appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. I now know how to do it right (if I decide to do it).

Still got time for others to add input.

Now, one of the major items: The protein skimmer. I've narrowed it down to Tunze DOC Skimmer 9015 or Barr Aquatics SK1620. Any thoughts? Did I miss any other real good in-sump models that are comparable.?

I am planning on adding an ozonizer later, and I'm wondering if I can safely add it through one of these units, or should I get a less expensive one especially for ozone (that will allegedly wear out sooner due to the ozone)?

[Ninong]

I'll pass on the skimmer recommendations for that size tank. I'm sure you'll get opinions from others who are running tanks close to that size. All of my research has been concentrated on skimmers for tanks in the 400-500 gallon range because that's what I expect my next tank to be.

[BubbaWPB]

I hope it doesn't take you as long to get your new tank as it did for your pond!

[Ninong]

Originally Posted by BubbaWPB

I hope it doesn't take you as long to get your new tank as it did for your pond!

That depends on my doctors. I had two major eye surgeries plus an 8-month treatment for something it turned out that I didn't have during the three years I was waiting to set up my tank. And I've had two more eye surgeries in the past three years since the tank was set up. My last eye surgery on my so-called "good" eye was last August.

We didn't start the pond because of my eye problems and now we probably won't set up the pond because we may not stay here more than another year or two.

[BubbaWPB]

Well, it finally made it from the garage into the house. Still waiting on a few pieces of equipment - mainly the skimmer and calcium reactor. Although I could start it up without the calcium reactor, I don't think I wanna try starting it up without the skimmer.

[Reefland]

Ah, that's got to feel great!

[BubbaWPB]

Well, yeah it does, but it also makes me more impatient! I want it up and running NOW!

I couldn't resist any longer... I had been wanting a blue M. capricornis for the new tank. I've only seen them rarely online for sale and haven't seen any in the LFSs. Well, today, I found one. I jumped on it. Fortunately it's a small frag and I found a spot in my very crowded 75 gallon tank.

It must be a corollary to Murphy's Law. You always find the coral you've been looking for when you run out of room in the tank.

[Boostable]

Looking great Bubba... Nice to see it starting to come together. I'm excited for you.

One piece of advice.. NO BRASS!!!.. LOL At least I can laugh now, so im getting there.

BTW... I didn't use any silicone on my bulkheads and have had no issues.

Jack

[charlie]

Bubba, as far as skimmers go, find the one that fits your tank, then go one size up, I don't think you will be sorry.

[BubbaWPB]

Jack, lemme know if you need help acid washing your tank... I'd be happy to make the trip to help out. Acid + acetone at Home Depot is less than $10 ... I checked the prices this week.

Charlie, I'm on the waiting list for a Barr SK1620.... rated 100-500 gallons... Brent said it should do just fine. The SK1220 is rated up to 300 gallons, so I bumped up one model.

[Poseidon]

YAY!!!!

It's..... almost alive!

[Frag Hag]

Well, yeah it does, but it also makes me more impatient! I want it up and running NOW!

I understand that! I have a 44 g tall sitting next to my desk waiting for lights, live sand & rock, etc., etc.,...

Unfortunately my spawn have to be fed this month.

Shay
(who thinks priorities suck sometimes)

P.S. Your tank is very cool.