[MGold]

Hi all-

I'd appreciate any suggestions or advice:

I currently have a 52 Gallon Perfecto Flatback Hexagon saltwater aquarium set-up. I have been happy with the tank, however, I am in the process of attempting to upgrade it from a largely FOWLR (i have a couple polyps) to a reef tank and I was wondering what the best way for me to increase the wattage of light for this tank as it is a somewhat odd shape. The single strip that comes with the tank worked well for the FOWLR set-up but, as you all know, won't be satisfactory for a reef tank.

Does anyone know of any high capacity light fixtures or hoods that are compatable with my 52 gallon Flatback Hexagon Tank that will allow me to utilize the tank for reef purposes?

I rather not suspend any housings from the ceiling and would really like to find a hood or fixture to fit on the top of the tank. The more aesthetically pleasing the better.

I would greatly appreciate any advice pointing me in the right direction for this dilemma I am currently facing. Thanks very much in advance.

Marc

[Steven Pro]

There are many options available to you, but you first must narrow down what you want to keep. A "reef" tank maens many different things to different people. First identify what corals you want to keep. From there, we can help you select a lighting system to best meet their needs.

[MGold]

Thanks for the reply. Idealy, I'd like to keep some LPS (brain coral, candy cane coral, plate, etc), mushrooms, as well as some polyps (colony, starburst, etc) and soft coral (leather). Maybe a sea fan as well. I also plan on adding a bubble tip anemone for my tomato clown. My tank is 48" wide but the front is a hexagon shape so finding a non-hanging lighting system that will meet my needs as well as look aesthetically appealing has me stumped. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

[Reefland]

As soon as you said Anemone it steered me towards mh. There are some nice mh fixtures out there that you might be able to find a way to sit on your tank.

[MGold]

Thanks for the reply. Aren't MH's ordinarily suspended from the ceiling because they get very hot?

[MGold]

This is a picture of the type of tank: http://elmersaquarium.com/h109masterkit52flatback.htm

[Steven Pro]

Bubble tip anemones do not require that intense lighting and most other things you have mentioned have very moderate lighting needs. I would think about a 4 x 65 watt PC fixture. Current USA makes some decent ones. Otherwise, if you did go with MH's, Aquactinic makes some narrow fixtures that would work in this instance adn can be placed right on the aquarium. With either of these options, you should remove the plastic hood and have either an open top or glass covers if you have fish prone to jump.

[chrisbrph]

Check out the Aqualight Pro units from coralife- I just bought a 24" but they make a 36,48 and 72" also.

They contain MH, CF actinic and LED moon lights to simulate a 24 hour lighting cycle.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/Products.../Itemdy00.aspx

[chrisbrph]

Forgot- the above lighting unit comes with adjustable legs that would rest on the edges of your tank.

I have the same flat back hex you are talking about- had to have glass cut to fit the top since the original had only a 3" wide strip for light to shine through.

[MGold]

Thanks. I'll take a look at this. So, did you make a custom glass cover and rest the Aqualight Pro on top? Could it be done without the glass cover?

[MGold]

Having trouble finding Aquactinic online- do you know of a link or site by any chance?

[Steven Pro]

http://www.aquactinics.com/

[MGold]

Thanks! (odd that yahoo didn't pick that up in my search, my bad)

[Steven Pro]

No problem. It is partially my fault. The company is Aquatinics with an S.

[chrisbrph]

Originally Posted by MGold

Thanks. I'll take a look at this. So, did you make a custom glass cover and rest the Aqualight Pro on top? Could it be done without the glass cover?

I did have glass cut to fit the rectangle portion of the tank leaving the few inches on each side open for air exchange and still used the legs to raise the lighting unit a few inches above which aids in heat dispersion.

The lighting unit from coralife will fit on top of the tank without the glass (added the glass to reduce evaporation)- the legs are adjustable (set the back legs wide apart on the back edge and the front 2 legs sit on the leading edge of the tank just before the angle back)

[MGold]

Thanks for the reply! I think that fixture is a bit too wide. (my tank is a couple inches less than 15" and it would hang over the corners due to the hexagon shape)

Someone recommended that I mount two of these:

http://www.hellolights.com/aqadhatamo.html

I am also talking to Tom at Aquactinics about whether his 48" MH/T5 combo will work with my tank. Opinions, advice or suggestions are, of course, welcome. Thanks!

[chrisbrph]

Great MH lighting- but what K bulbs would you use- personally I would follow up on the T5/MH combo- better overall for reef setup- can run actinics in the T5 and 10-15K MH for health of corals.

Also if the overhang on the side is the issue with the Aqualight Pro- step down to the 36" which would cover the main portion of the tank- with the lights arranged the way they are and the intensity of the bulbs, you would not have any deadspots in the corners- just another option.

My 24" unit is on a 92 corner where the tank is over 36" wide and offers full coverage.

[MGold]

Thanks for the input-

Tom from aquactinics says:

"If the back of your tank is around 7.5" before it starts to get narrow, then I think you will be just fine. The corner of the fixture might overhang an inch, but that's just the lip of the metal so you shouldn't get any light spill. As for the riser brackets, they are a U shape bracket that attaches to the front and back of the fixture. Attached are some photos of the brackets and it installed on a fixture. These brackets would work very well on your tank if you wanted to use them."

he sent pictures of the brackets and them on a tank that starts getting narrower- it raises the fixture up 2.5" (according to the website, heat surprisingly doesn't appear to be a problem with this unit)

so it seems to be between this and the two mounting 10.5" 150w DE hqi's . . . i'm getting varied opinions. The HQI's are DE's so that is presumably better but then i wouldnt have any k's like you mentioned - the aquactinics is also 40% more expensive and i am flying somewhat blind regardless of what i choose since no LFS carries these units and id have to order it sight unseen. Decisions, Decisions.

[MGold]

Also, if i did choose to go with the aquactinics fixture . . . which bulbs would you go with (both blue + actinic, 1 blue + actinic and 1 pure actinic, or both pure actinic)? There are also "e-ballast upgrades" 150w, 250, or 400 . . . it comes with a "remote ballast box with quick disconnect" . . . why would i need an upgrade?

Sorry for the barrage of questions!

[chrisbrph]

You will most likely get many opinions on this one-
What works for some may not be what you are looking for-

Personally with the AQtinics- I would use either 10K or 12K MH with 420 and 460 wavelength bulbs in the T5 setup if possible.

The 10K/12K will give more white than blue lighting (if you prefer more blue you can increase to the 14K-20K)

The 420 is the standard actinic wavelength with the 460 being more purple (same wl used in moonlights)- the combination of the two offers a very pleasing color translation to corals.

As to the wattage for the MH - 150W will work fine based on the size tank and depth- you could increase to the 250W for more light penetration to deeper parts of the tank but based on most reefs, it is not needed unless you keep specimens that need high amounts of light on the bottom substrate.

Again, just my opinion.

Chris