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Algae film on water surface? |
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#1 |
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Tenant
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Avondale, PA
Posts: 57
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Algae film on water surface?
I just removed my TetraTec filter and Seaclone skimmer and added a CPR PacPak2R+ to my 40 gallon tank. Recently I have noticed that I have been accumulating a layer of algae floating on the water surface, it is almost like a film. I am wondering if this is related to changing out the filters and missing some type of filtration, or if I should just add the CPR surface skimmer to the BakPak?
Tank Spec: BakPak2R+ H.O.T. Magnum 2 maxi-jet 400 1 XM 250w 10k hqi mh 2 65w actinic PC's About 80 - 85 pounds of lr 2 percula clowns 2 bangaii cardinals 1 yellow watchman gobie 1 rose anemone green star polyps couple ricordea mushrooms Anyone have any ideas? Ryan |
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#2 |
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Governor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,234
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Do you use an overflow box? If not, you may want to... it really doesn't matter what you have in your tank, if you're not using an overflow of some sort, you'll get a film on the top of your tank. You can also point a powerhead at the top of the tank... that can help break it up.
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Bubba Hmmm... now that the tank is full, I could convert the pool to saltwater... Bubba's Aquarium Log |
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#3 |
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Tenant
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Avondale, PA
Posts: 57
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WOW, talk about a quick response!!!
I have the output of the magnum skimmer shooting across the top of the tank. I guess the answer is to buy the surface skimmer that attaches to the BakPak. I pretty much new that but I wanted to see if removing the power filter and seaclone would have anything to due with the amount of algae that I have seen in the past few days. Another question, I know there is a break in period for upgrading MH's for corals, but is there a breakin period for the tank as well? I mean, does the tank parameters have a break in period to deal with the new amount of light and algae that is produced from the upgrade in lighting? I also recently upgraded the lighting from a 150w hqi to a 250w hqi. Ryan |
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#4 |
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Governor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,234
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According to another thread, the surface skimmer isn't working as well as one would like. Overflow boxes work very well.
Regarding the lights... what do you mean by "tank"? I wouldn't worry about the live rock and stuff; you only have to worry about immobile animals that might get a sunburn (like corals)...
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Bubba Hmmm... now that the tank is full, I could convert the pool to saltwater... Bubba's Aquarium Log |
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#5 |
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Tenant
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Avondale, PA
Posts: 57
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What thread are you refering to? I have been looking around here and I have not been able to find anything with the search function on this site.
Ryan |
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#6 |
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Governor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,234
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Try this one What is this?????? help...
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Bubba Hmmm... now that the tank is full, I could convert the pool to saltwater... Bubba's Aquarium Log |
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#7 |
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Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 13,030
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I doubt that the growth of algae has anything to do with the removal of those filters. The film on the top of the wateris a build up of proteins and would best be removed with a surface skimer for the CPR rather than aiming a powerhead at the surface, howsoever a powerhead aimed at the surface will do the trick. As for the lighting, it should be much of a transition from 150 - 250w. I would think within a week everything would adjust without any interaction from you.
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#8 |
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Mayor
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 672
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Whenever I change out light bulbs or upgrade lighting, I always decrease the photoperiod. I start with 2 hours per day for the first week. I then increase it 2 hours per week until I get to the desired photoperiod.
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