Ozone-UV-Both-Neither

[FishieNut]

Two questions:

I'm contemplating getting a ozoner and orp controller for my 100 gal reef. I've read that you must use silicone tubing, but the recommendations are to place the outlet into the skimmer, which is acrylic. Does this degrade the skimmer acrylic?

Second part of the question is: Ozone, UV sterilizer or both or one or the other or neither? What's the skinny?

[Steven Pro]

Ozone can destroy some protein skimmers, so check with the manufacturer first.

As to ozone and/or UV, I don't use either.

[Poseidon]

What Steven said, about Ozone.

As for UV, I run a BIG one! I have had it running for about 1 month now, and I can tell you I have better water clarity, and MUCH less algae growing on the glass. I have also noticed a decrease in my nuisance algae rowing on the rocks, I attribute this to the algae spores being killed by the UV. On the down side, my Blasstomoussa Merletti is NOT HAppy at all, I attribute that to the increased light, and less free floating food in the water.

I also feel more comfortable knowing if I do have an Ick breakout the UV I am using will HELP to slow it down, if not eradicate it all together.

My future plans are to go with more SPS, and less LPS so I am pretty certain the increased water clarity is going to work out well for me!

[Ninong]

Second part of the question is: Ozone, UV sterilizer or both or one or the other or neither? What's the skinny?

Not a top priority for a 100-gal reef aquarium. Most hobbyists are quite successful without ozone or UV; however, it's something that you may want to revisit if you ever get into really BIG tanks. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. In the opinion of the guys who run them on very large tanks (e.g., >500 gallons), the advantages outweigh the disadvantages because of the size of the system and the potential risk involved in allowing a parasite or pathogen to sneak in.

Of course, you could always quarantine everything for a month before putting it in the tank and that would go a long way in avoiding problems.

[FishieNut]

I appreciate all the help I've gotten on this forum. From all I've read and reasearched, PLANNING and RESEARCH is key to having a sucessful reef.

Thanks again for all your help.
George

[BubbaWPB]

I run ozone and UV on my 75 and my new 265. I'll second Steven Pro - check with your protein skimmer manufacturer to see if your skimmer is ozone safe.

[jollopee]

I run UV on my 100 gal and when I first put it on line, my water clarity went from mediocre to incredible overnight. I havent shut it off since. IMO it is easier to run UV than Ozone. From what I have read you have to be very careful running ozone, makeing sure not to dose too much.....but I suppose that goes for just about anything you put in your tank . Anyhow there is less stress for me running UV, since I dont have to monitor it, thats what I was trying to say

Todd

[BubbaWPB]

I've got one of the ozonizers with a ORP probe... the ozonizer only runs for an hour or two a month. Once it got the redox level up, the water has remained clear and the redox potential remains in the 330-350 range. When the redox starts dropping, it's a reminder to do some tank maintenance (water change, vacuuming muck outta the sump, etc.).

My UV crystal gets encrusted with calcium pretty quickly. Not the quickest gadget to service, either. Just another point of view.

[FishieNut]

You guys are great. Thanks for all the info.
There is sooooo much to know and learn, whew!

[jollopee]

You got a point there bubba. Cleaning and servicing my UV is a big chore. One I dread to even think of. Not so much just cleaning the thing, but actually getting itout from behind my tank and disconnected from the water lines without siphoning 10 gallons of water all over my floor, plus I have to shut down all my pumps because I have to shut down the overflow and the return from the fuge...........yeah Ozone might be a little easier. Bubba, thanks for pointing out to me that I am doing too much work ..........I think Im gonna get goldfish.


Todd

[Poseidon]

LOL! I planned my UV to be in a spot that is easy to remove! It is held in place by ZIP TIES! CHeap to replace and very strong!

[BubbaWPB]

Mine is easy to get to, and fortunately, I put in ball valves so I can get it out and clean it... but it is still a messy, drippy job. ...and the wiper doesn't do squat for calcium... only slime.

Of course (I want to be clear for FishieNut who started this thread), I still have the UV AND ozone connected, despite the PITA maintenance on the UV. I think it is worth it. I've never had a problem with ich <knocking wood>.

[reefracer]

I've been thinking of using a UV and if I'm not mistaken I read about one that the tube is in a separate chamber from the water like a quartz sleeve around it and it can be replaced without lost of water. But wait a minute, the sleeve would still be subject to a slime build-up, HMMM anyone know the UV I'm talking about?

[jollopee]

That is how all UV's are. Water doesnt come in direct contact of any of the bulbs. Water is passed through a clear sleeve. The better models will have more turns around the bulb,leaving the water in contact with the light for a longer period of time and thus makeing it worth even haveing. The cheaper UV's pass the water through the light much quicker and not really doing anything productive. If you do decide to go with a UV, as with anything in this hobby, make sure you dont go the cheap route with the UV or you will be wasteing your money.


Todd

[FishieNut]

Thanks, gentlemen (or ladies, as the case may be) for all the inforamtion. I think I'm going to go with both. What's another couple of $$$$$! Anything to make my reef happy, healthy and successful (sound like a toast at my kid's wedding...)

Thanks again. I love this forum. You get more information and less posturing. Great!

[Poseidon]

I think Aqua UV are the best myself, and they don't have any "twists" in them. Just REALLY high UV output! They rate the bulbs at the EOL (end of Lamplife) which they claim is 14 months. Others rate at the start of the bulb and you get decreased production from day 1.

[Sushiman]

I've been thinking of using a UV and if I'm not mistaken I read about one that the tube is in a separate chamber from the water like a quartz sleeve around it and it can be replaced without lost of water. But wait a minute, the sleeve would still be subject to a slime build-up, HMMM anyone know the UV I'm talking about?

sounds like my Lifeguard 40W. You replace the quartz sleeve the same time you replace the bulb. works great, but the cost of the sleeve & bulb for the 40W is steep.

[Steven Pro]

Regarding the twist models, I believe this is nothing more than a gimick which likely does not actually help performance and could hurt it depending on the design. I would have to dig up my fluid mechanic text though to prove it and I hated fluid mechanics.

[jollopee]

So it doesnt matter how long the water is in contact with the light then?

[BubbaWPB]

Yes, it does matter how long the water is in contact with the light. I don't know squat about fluid dynamics, so I'll leave the twist issue up to Steven.