[Samper]

Recently I read that I need to be flushing my RO/DI unit out and I've never done so. The instructions that came with it mention nothing about flushing it out. I have changed membranes but want to keep it running at its best even with fresh filters. It's a buckeyefieldsupply unit exactly like the one in this link. http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/sh...ry=168&Sub=166 Mine is the 75gpd system.

[golfish]

The best way to do it is to buy a flush kit, their pretty easy to install..Another way is to remove the flow restrictor and turn on the water with the restrictor out for 20-30 seconds.

[Reefland]

How effective is that compared to the flush kit? Where is the water restrictor at?

[mungus728]

Originally Posted by Reefland

How effective is that compared to the flush kit? Where is the water restrictor at?

It is basically the same thing. The flow restrictor will be located on the waste water line. You can actually build your own flush kit very easily with parts from home depot or lowes. Otherwise check out the The Filter Guys They have fantastic prices and top notch customer service. BTW you should replace your flow restrictor every time you replace your membrane.

RO/DI Add-Ons the flush kit is about halfway down the page. The longer white thing is the flow restrictor. The valve allows you to by pass the restrictor flushing the membrane.

Brian

[golfish]

Brian pretty much covered it...The flush kit just bypasses the restrictor. I think I paid 6 bucks and change for mine from Spectrapure.

[Samper]

Mine actually has the flush valve on it but I don't know how to use it. I just open it all the way up and let it run for a while? Does this not use any of my filter in doing so?

[mungus728]

Originally Posted by Samper

Mine actually has the flush valve on it but I don't know how to use it. I just open it all the way up and let it run for a while? Does this not use any of my filter in doing so?

Once a week I will open my valve and let it run for about 5-10 mins to flush the membrane. It will actually extend the life of your membrane if done on a regular basis. If you haven't done it in a while I would check with the place that you bought it to see if they would recommend flushing. I have heard it can do more harm than good if not done regularly.

Brian

[golfish]

Originally Posted by mungus728

BTW you should replace your flow restrictor every time you replace your membrane.

Other then matching the GPH of a new membrane is there another reason you feel the restrictor should be replaced?

[Samper]

Well I flushed it today for 15 minutes by opening up the flush valve all the way and letting it run with my booster pump on. I also took it apart and cleaned the inside of the plastic canisters holding the membranes. My tds readings went from .05 to .01.

[mungus728]

Originally Posted by golfish

Other then matching the GPH of a new membrane is there another reason you feel the restrictor should be replaced?

The waste water line will have a higer tds. Some of these disovled solids can build up in the flow restrictor and reduced the flow over time. This would force more water through the membrane reducing its life.

Brian

[Reefland]

So is the flow restrictor that I need to remove to flush my unit inside of the RO membrane housing?

[golfish]

Originally Posted by mungus728

The waste water line will have a higer tds. Some of these disovled solids can build up in the flow restrictor and reduced the flow over time. This would force more water through the membrane reducing its life.

Brian

Good thought, I guess you could soak the restrictor in Vinegar to clean it out. I'd be more apt to do this rather then buy another restrictor..matcing them to the membrane is a little harder

Originally Posted by Reefland

So is the flow restrictor that I need to remove to flush my unit inside of the RO membrane housing?

Yes....

[mungus728]

Here is a picture of a flow restrictor with a flush valve. The white cylinder is the flow restrictor. There are different types of flow restrictors so yours may not look exactly like that one. It should be located on your waste water line.



Here is a picture of a cheaper flow restrictor from marine depot.

Brian

[golfish]

The flow restrictors I have used on my Spectrapure unit look more like the bottom picuture but smaller...I guess thier cheaper cause there's really not much to em? the idea is to restric the flow using smaller tubing...you start with a longer tube and adjust from there, The longer the tube the more the restriction...pretty simple if you get the idea how they work.

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Were you looking to flush the membrane, or to sanitize the entire system? These are two very different things.

Russ @ BFS

[Samper]

I want to sanitize the entire system Russ.

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Here you go:

We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

Turn off the water supply to the system.

Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the water supply and install new filters.

We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement, and the reading on your pressure gauge with a new set of prefilters.

Russ @ BFS

[Samper]

Russ thank you for all your help.
The unit is still running flawlessly and your customer service is second to none. I've recommended your filters to a number of people and I hope you stay around. Thanks again.

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Outstanding! Great to hear.

Russ

[110galreef]

Wow excellent advice!

I'll have to bookmark this!