It isn't as important to acclimate to changes in flow as it is to lighting or temperature, but it wouldn't hurt to restrict the flow of the CL and slowly release it while you observe your corals. This will ensure none of them get "blasted".
I'm finally done with my CL and ready to install. Since it has more flow than what my tank is used to, should I use the ball valve and slowly ramp up the flow rate? kind of the same idea when you add new lights on a tank. Thanks
Dr. Kurt
It isn't as important to acclimate to changes in flow as it is to lighting or temperature, but it wouldn't hurt to restrict the flow of the CL and slowly release it while you observe your corals. This will ensure none of them get "blasted".
Larger ports on a closed loop set up that disperse the water over a larger area rather than a direct stream is better for the inhabitants. I have seen post of people wanting to install venturis etc to increase velocity. When the corals grow into this path the flesh can be torn from the skeletal structure. Not good..... Just a thought.....
Greg
14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
375 gallon tank....... SOLD
675 gallon wood tank in design phase.![]()
Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......
What is the purpose of a closed loop? Just circulation or does it depend on what type of tank setup you have to have the need for one?
Yes, it is for extra flow. They are used to provide extra circulation in a discreet manner.
Just wondering but is this as effienct as just adding a powerhead for the flow ?
It is more discreet for sure. A closed loop allows you to add a lot of flow to your tank, without the visual obstruction. There are now internal powerheads available which move a lot of water (Tunze Streams, Vortech, SEIO, etc.) but you still hav ethe visual obstruction.
Aesthetics is not the only issue, but now you introduce an electrical device into the tank for an opportunity for stray current. A closed loop is more efficient because you can utilize one external pump to replace many in tank powheads reducing power consumption.
Greg
14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
375 gallon tank....... SOLD
675 gallon wood tank in design phase.![]()
Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......
If setup right a closed loop can be sweet...I just took my CL apart and went with powerheads. Its all about good planning, it seems that eveytime I build a tank I find room for improvement..Just like my old 150 I set up the new tank (now 3 years old and a complete failure) with a closed loop using a Sequence Barracuda pump and two 1" Sea Swirls.The flow was ok but just not what I wanted. I even added two more 3\4" lines because the pump should have been too much for the 2 SS's...
I removed the closed loop and attached two MJ1200 mods to the Sea Swirls. That alone added almost 1000 gph to the flow. I then added a Tunze 6080 to the mix...The Tunze is the one that throws off the look, its huge and puts out just a little more gph then the MJ mods. I figure with the Barracuda\closed loop I was doing about 2300 gph and burning 275 watts. With the MJ mods and the Tunze I'm doing atleast twice the flow and buring less then 50 watts.
If I do it again I'd setup something like the Ocean Motions with 1.5" outlets on the ends of the tank and run something like my Amp Master 3000.
Forgive me for being so bold but, isn't it better to have many locations pumping water than just a few? I.E. several low gph powerheads vs 1 high gph pump. I have some idease for the visual objections... gonna try it in my new tank:
#1 bent a piece of plexiglass to make a large overflow area. Then mounting a few powerheads inside the overflow and just the nozzle sticking out.
#2 In addition I have built a canopy that hangs 3" over top of tank so I can hide one or two powerheads at the top.
#3 how about using agrocrete to build a "powerhead-rock"
just some thoughts
As an example my 375 gallon tank has a closed loop with one Hammerhead pump (6000gph) plumbed through an Oceans Motions 8 Way. The 8 way maintains 4 ports open at any given time yielding 1250gph through each opening. As the unit cycles it closes one to open the next in sequence. In a minutes time the unit has cycled completely through 8 different openings. Not only does this contribute a to random water flow in the tank but has eliminated 8 power heads....
Greg
14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
375 gallon tank....... SOLD
675 gallon wood tank in design phase.![]()
Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......
What does a 6000 gph water intake look like? How do you keep everything in your tank within a foot of the intake from getting sucked in?
By utilizing two 1 1/2" intakes that "T" together behind the tank. Having two intakes reduces the intake flow by one half....
Greg
14 gallon BioCube, modified to accept Maxijet 600
75 gallon reef with 29 gallon sump/fuge, Barr Aquatic Skimmer, Iwaki 100, Mag 7 return, Hamilton T-5 lighting
375 gallon tank....... SOLD
675 gallon wood tank in design phase.![]()
Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......
And when you consider the size of a 1.5" pipe, it isn't that much velocity flowing through it.
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