Very Ruff drawing 72 bowfront plumbing . Comments Please and welcomed.

[ShooterRick]

To get this clear in my old head I did a ruff drawing of how this is to be plumbed to the sump. All suggestions appreciated.

[Reefing Madness]

Looks like a go.

[ShooterRick]

Looks like a go.

Good deal. I guess it is time to put together a plumbing parts list and take inventory of what I have on hand.

When the time comes to fill the tank will I fill the tank, sump, skimmer, full and activate the system making the valve adjustments once running or what is the best way of dialing all this in?

[Reefing Madness]

Good deal. I guess it is time to put together a plumbing parts list and take inventory of what I have on hand.

When the time comes to fill the tank will I fill the tank, sump, skimmer, full and activate the system making the valve adjustments once running or what is the best way of dialing all this in?

That would be the best way to do it. Then you can fine tune it easily afterwards. Keep the level in the Sump alittle low, until you know how much is going to backflow during a poweroutage. Then you can mark your water line.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

That would be the best way to do it. Then you can fine tune it easily afterwards. Keep the level in the Sump alittle low, until you know how much is going to backflow during a poweroutage. Then you can mark your water line.

+1 Getting it dialed in is pretty easy and allowing enough room for drain back is super important. When you put it all together, make sure to visually inspect the siphon breaks for blockages and such just in case.

I marked 2 water lines in the sump. One is the water line in the return section while the pumps are running and the other is what the water line should be when the pumps are off.

[ShooterRick]

Thanks guys for the input. Once I get all the misc stuff together I will start the build. I am also looking at the RKL controller. Seems like this thing once set up will make monitor and maintance simpler. I am looking at the level 2 controller with intent of adding the 2nd module later to replace my light timers and consolidate monitoring.


I also think I will need to eventually purchase calcium, phosphate, and magnesium test kit to add onto my fowlr basic AP test kit since I will have some corals later on.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

Thanks guys for the input. Once I get all the misc stuff together I will start the build. I am also looking at the RKL controller. Seems like this thing once set up will make monitor and maintance simpler. I am looking at the level 2 controller with intent of adding the 2nd module later to replace my light timers and consolidate monitoring.


I also think I will need to eventually purchase calcium, phosphate, and magnesium test kit to add onto my fowlr basic AP test kit since I will have some corals later on.

I have the RKL and think it's a good unit for the price. The components that you can control with the system seems endless. The heater function can save your tank from a malfunctioning heater. You can even purchase the sensor for auto top off of evaporated water. I didn't go that route because I had already got a JBJ auto top off. I have all my pumps/ powerheads, lights, skimmer, etc... hooked to the RKL. I don't think it's a necessity but I won't ever have a tank without one.

There are a few "bugs" in the system though. My Hydor Koralia powerheads will not operate correctly when using the wavemaker function. The PC4 powerstrips have 4 "smart" sockets. Two of the sockets are switched by mechanical relays (when they turn on, an audible click can be heard). The other two are run by solid state relays. When the koralias are plugged into the solid state relay driven sockets, they either stay on or stay off. Hydor says this is due to the low current the powerheads draw. They recommend using the 2 mechanical relay driven sockets for low current pumps to operate in wavemaker mode. I verified that they do work but the mechanical relays clicking every 20 seconds gets annoying. There is a way to run the low current powerheads off of the solid state relay driven sockets though. You would have to buy a compact surge protector for each of the solid state relay sockets and plug the powerheads into the surge protector and the surge protector into solid state relay socket. I did that and it works like they said it would (wavemaker operates and no click because its the solid state relay) but the surge protectors are about $20 a piece. I had to spend another $40 to get the wavemaker function to work with the koralias and be switched quietly.

Be sure to research the problems with the RKL before buying one. There's even a forum on the Digital Aquatics website for technical support. The Apex controller are worth looking into as well. I haven't done any research on them because the RKL was in my price range. HTH.

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

And in case anyone was wondering what surge protectors I used:
Staples 3-Outlet 918 Joule Surge Protector with USB Charging Ports | Staples�

[FoMoCo Master Tech]

I also think I will need to eventually purchase calcium, phosphate, and magnesium test kit to add onto my fowlr basic AP test kit since I will have some corals later on.

Weather it's a FOWLER or reef tank, measuring and balancing calcium, alkalinity and magnesium is benificial. When the "Big Three" are within range and balanced with eachother, it creates natural Ph buffering. It also promotes coraline growth and helps to prevent nusance algae from anchoring to the rock.

Phosphate levels are also important to know but I found the liquid tests to be just about useless. Most people use the Hanna Phosphate checker. It's fairly priced for a digital tester and it's pretty accurate. Hanna also makes digital testers (the Checker line) for calcium and alkalinity. No more color cards or counting drops ! They are all around $50 each, which is a little more than some of the higher quality test kits (thinking Salifert) but the ease of use and digital display might make it worthwhile. I know it does for me. Just ordered the calcium and alkalinity checkers last night .

[ShooterRick]

Well I got the 1/8 plexi cut for the sump baffles and lid. I hope to have the sump updated and ready by t his weekend. I do have to make 8 cups of BBQ rub this weekend as my other hobby demands my presence next weekend to cook for 35 pit masters from all over the south. I expect my Quiet ONe 2200 pump in tomorrow. My plan is to dry fit all together to look for concerns and make adjustments before I permanently clamp and and such. Other than the sump not much will get done till after this month is over. Since I will be gone three days I am going to premeasure food and have the next door folks feed for me.