Closed loop

[saltjunkie]

I know it has been discussed many times here, but can people send me pics and or schematics on their setups.
I will be using a mag 18 and want to set it up right the first time (although i cant get a sea swirl).
Any help would be great.
rick@reefland.com
Rick

[naser]

i cant post the pic cause i allready did.. do a search for naser under take2...

[scubadude]

[FISHme]

Scuba, what kind of intake screens are you using ? Do you have any problem with them getting clogged ?
If you have a photo of them that would be cool.

[golfish]

they look like 1.5" strainers

[scubadude]

Yup dats them....thanks golfish

No I dont have ANY problems with snails/fish/etc etc getting stuck.....FWIW I even drilled about 4 holes on the tips of the strainers

[FISHme]

Thanks Guys

[dsb1829]

On my closed loop I used a single 1.5" intake. I initially had a strainer like that pictured above. It had pretty good suction going to my Dolphin 3600. Enough to make me a bit nervous about a sick fish or poor swimmer getting too closed. I was lucky enough to have the stock 1.5" overflow kits for my oceanic tank. This kit included their perforated standpipe (just like their 1" only in 1.5"). It is clear and very open strainer, yet with small enough holes to keep fish and inverts out. I used about 6" of this unstead of a strainer. It has really reduced the velocity of water entering the screen, so I don't have to worry about critters getting stuck to it.

Here is the schematic of my closed loop. Pretty basic drawing, but you get the idea. I have a sump that is shared by two tanks and a closed loop on our 180g reef. I have a simillar setup to scubadude. My dolphin 3600 draws from the tank and returns to two 1" ss and a 1" line that T's into two 3/4" flexible loclines. Majority of flow goes to the ss devices, but I still split the pump into three 1" lines to avoid adding head by reducing the cross-sectional area of the tubing from pump to tank.

[saltjunkie]

Ok, i think i got it. I am going to use a mag 18 on my 50g tank. here is what i have going on.
50g tank with the cpr overflow(i know, i know) rated at 300 gph max.
I am using a mag 2 pump in the cpr sump with built in skimmer that is rated for up to a 100 g tank. I am using the mag 2 so as not to work the overflow too hard. now as you can guess my flow is minimum, but the skimmer gets good contact time. I currently have 2 maxijet 1200's in the tank, 1 shooting straight ahead towards the front, from the very left rear corner, this is hooked to the overflow. The overflow is directly next to it.
The other maxi is in the very front right corner, blowing straight across the face of the tank( very visually unpleasing...).
The sump return is in the rear right aimed towards the middle/center of tank basically aimed up to break the surface.
This creates a large lack of movement in the whole back section of the tank.

I will plumb the mag 18 to pull from the same corner as the cpr overflow, down, with the mag external. It will returnto the opposite side, go just below the surface and all along the back over to the cpr. With the right amount of holes drilled in different areas, this should give me good water movement and allow me to remove the front maxi.
I want to figure out and incorporate that whole water change system going on by FISHme. And i will also put in a ball valve to throttle back the mag 18 if needed....
Now to get this from paper to an actual product....
Rick