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#1 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: plymouth mi
Posts: 165
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plumbing Help
I need some advice on my plumbing for my 125.
I will be feeding two 3/4" sea swirls from my return pump. Does this mean I should have 1.5" pvc from my return pump to a T and then 3/4" from the T? 3/4+3/4=1.5 I have no plumbing knowledge just seems like the pipe should be bigger prior to the T. Am I making any sense? Please help. Ryan |
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#2 |
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Mayor
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What kind of return pump? Will the pump serve just the 2 SS or do you have other loads on the pump?
The simplest way is to get a pump slightly overrated for the 2 SS (just add their flowrates together then multiply times 1.2) and create a closed-loop system. Keep the PVC pipe coming out of the pump the same size as the pump outlet. Then you could reduce it at the tee or keep the tee the same size as the line and reduce it at the SS. Reducing at the SS will give you slightly better performance but not enough to really notice.
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-Todd |
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#3 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: plymouth mi
Posts: 165
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Thanks Todd,
I was thinking about a mag 1800, And yes the plan is to just feed the 2 sea swirls and then if needed(which I hope not) add a additional closed loop. I think the 3/4" sea swirls are rated at 850 gph.(I am considering a ampmaster 3000 or another pump around that size but dont know if i need it) Ryan Last edited by rwag; 02-18-2002 at 08:02 PM. |
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#4 |
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Council
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LOL
This topic sounds all too familiar. If your tring to get the MOST out of your return pump dont reduce the plumbing untill the SeaSwirl. Meaning say your return pump use's 1 1/2" run 1 1/2" from the pump then split (you should use a "Y" fitting instead of a Tee) and run 1 1/2" from there right to the SeaSwirls. You can do a search on this topic. Take a look at Scubsdudes closed loop, and you will see what I'm talking about. What kind of pump do you plan to use?? Alot of people love the new AMP master 3000 by Dolphin pumps they are VERY good on saving energy. Here is a sketch of my plumbing plan ( MY SS's will be on a closed loop along with a spray bar |
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#5 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: plymouth mi
Posts: 165
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Wasted,
Thanks for the tips. I guess a "Y" fitting would make more sense,less resistance. Dont see your sketch though. Please post it I am interested. Ryan |
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#6 |
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Council
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ya my computer froze up and I thought that I lost the entire post. I'll try it again
ahhhh It wont let me repost the pic because I posted it once before so I'll find the post and bump it up so you see it |
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#7 |
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Citizen
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: plymouth mi
Posts: 165
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Looks great wasted, Thanx alot!
I need to get rid of my "T" fittings and use "Y" fittings instead. Thanks again Ryan |
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#8 | |
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Governor
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Arden, NC USA
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
other than the addition of SS's which I love.
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Paul C Timing has an awful lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance. |
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#9 |
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Governor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,171
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paul you changed youre plumbing and didnt gain much????
too funny imsure you gained alittle ,and you needed some sea swirls anyway rwag,read youre pump instructions for the optimum size piping.you cant rely on the size of the outlet all the time either,the mags(at least 12 on up) have 3/4 outlets,but ruquire 1" plumbing for max flow rates.hth |
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#10 | |
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Governor
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Arden, NC USA
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
My old manifold worked fine, and IMO was a complete waste of time replacing with 1-1/2 all the way to the SS's. I should have paid attn to Rin's comment about the friction being small and not enough to worry about. Yes, I did need the SS's but I could have ran them on the existing lines and it would have worked as well as it does now. Live and learn.
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Paul C Timing has an awful lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance. |
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#11 |
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Governor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,171
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key word is -almost-
how about some pics of the redone plumbing...if possible ![]() |
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