Drain flow,H2O level, sump and back?

[Thomas]

Set up a 90 gal last weekend and have been having some problems with the level of water in the sump. I have an overflow with 1" drain and 3/4" return. On the sump is an external Velocity T-3 pump. At first my 1" standpipe was sucking air and sounded like a farting contest at the old folks home. I was told to put a gate valve on the drain to the wet/dry to control the flow and I did this, I was told that by restricting the flow a little here would raise the water in the overflow and help eliminate that noise. This worked but the problem is still the same.

The water in the sump goes down to the level of the bulkhead and the pump starts to suck air. If I turn the ballvalve down on the pump I can control this, But.., the level of water in the sump exposes the Rio 2500 that I will be using with my Protien Skimmer and I do not want the Rio to suck air as well.

I believe that I need more water flow down to the wet/dry. I did use 1" PVC for the stand pipe but it doesn't seem to be giving me enough flow to the wet/dry. Is there a way that I can get more water down there to raise the level so that my Rio does not get exposed to the air? and make sure that the level stays there?

My thanks for all your help and suggestions.
Thomas

[reefer504]

I don't know about getting more water to your sump but you could put another ball valve on the return line to bog down the pump,this will help equal out the water level.


HTH

[reefer504]

oops

[Ltspd]

If you made a Stockman or Durso standpipe and you have a 1" drain then the standpipe should have been made from 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 pipe. The sucking sound is because you dont have a large enough air hole in the top cap. I had a 1/4" micro ballvalve and it was wide open.

I think if you will get the air hole fixed, and possible fix the pipe size you can add more water and stabilize everything both in the sump and tank.

[Bughead]

I know exactly what you're talking about! I had this problem for six months before I finally figured it out. I had a ball valve on the return, and if I turned this down so I could hear the TV, the circulation in the tank was minimal. Finally, I thought a bigger opening on the overflow pipe would work. I went to HD and got a connector for the 3/4" pipe and increaced the opening to 1" and PRESTO immediate 90% improvement. Maybe sometime I'll get another connector and increase the size of the opening even more, but right now it's liveable and I can keep the pump full open.

[Thomas]

Ltspd- Well I guess that makes sence. I will start making a new standpipe using 1 1/4 on my next day off. Thanks for the tip.

Bughead- awful noise isn't it? you just used a connector? Good Ideal also but I would rather go for the larger dia. standpipe first and save the old one in case of emergancy but will keep your idea on file.

Thank you everyone for posting. I will try to make this work.

Thomas

[Ltspd]

When you make the larger standpipe make sure you increase the air hole size.

I would try increasing the airhole size now, before I went to making a larger standpipe. You may not have to re-do it.

[Thomas]

Alright, When I started out I had a 1" sockman, then I built the 1 1/4" derso but this will not fit in my overflow, if it did fit, it would put too much sideways pressure on the 1" bulkhead. I did use the 3/4 " elbow in the 1" T part to prevent it from sticking out so far. The only other possability that I can see is cutting a 1/2 inch of of the T and maybe a 1/4 inch off of the elbow and then it might fit. Open to suggestions

[Thomas]

Ok it worked. I cut 1/2 inch off of the short part of the T fitting and the 1 1/4 inch derso fit into place without causing any stress on the bulkhead below and it works and is quiet.....yeah! Thanks for everyones suggestions.