Table of Contents:

March 2005 Edition Introduction: Introduction to March 2005 RHO By: Scott Zachow & Gene Schwartz Cover Photo: Ctenochaetus striatus By: Gene Schwartz Clean Up Review: Clean Up Crews By: Scott Zachow Main Atrraction: Beautiful Seagrasses - Keeping True Flowering Plants in Your Marine Aquarium By: Anthony Calfo Extra Extra: Variations on a Refugium: Installation Options By: Steven Pro Featured Member: Take 2 By: Eric and Sheila Ropke

Ctenochaetus striatus – Bristletooth Tang By: Gene Schwartz

Cover Photograph Ctenochaetus striatus – Bristletooth Tang By: Gene Schwartz Ctenochaetus striatus pictured above in the authors 75 gallon reef tank enjoying a small patch of algae. Photo and caption by Gene Schwartz This particular tang, captured in this picture sampling some hair algae (Derbesia sp.) in my tank, belongs to genus Ctenochaetus (Bristletooth), Gill 1884. The genus is comprised of 6 species and possibly 10. The reason that it may be 10 is that at this stage it's not quite clear if certain members of species-complex represent valid species, are sub-specific, or are actually regional color morphs of a single taxon (R. Kuiter, Surgeonfishes, Rabbitfishes and their relatives). Species in this genus superficially are similar in appearance to the species in genus Acanthurus; the most distinguishing differences being different structure of the jaw and number of teeth. Teeth themselves are flexible (movable) and incurved. They also have 8 dorsal fin spines compared to 9 in the Acanthurus. Their behavior is similar to those in Acanthurus except that Ctenochaetus surgeonfish feed on detritus, thin film and matter on substrate that contains high concentration of unicellular algae. The Ctenochaetus striatus is one of the species of Bristletooth tangs that are found extending into the Red Sea but are also spread from Indo-Pacific to Oceania. Species from the Red Sea have bright yellow pectoral fins but they are identical otherwise to the other C. striatus. I find it interesting that this particular fish is not that common in US but is the most frequently imported species in Europe. Now for the aquarium care. As with all tangs, they need lots of swimming room and plenty of live rock to graze upon. In addition, I've noticed that my C. striatus likes to hide for short time, perhaps to rest, so some hiding spots like caves and crevices should be constructed. I also noticed that it prefers grazing on short, turf type algae more than anything. The picture you see above is quite deceiving because it just depicts a single incident when the fish was sampling hair algae. I do not see it feeding on it constantly and that particular patch still persists. In addition to the greens in their diets they should be offered a variety of frozen/fresh seafood's chopped into small pieces. My fish goes for all commercially available frozen foods, like squid or mysis shrimp and even chopped pieces of silversides goes well with my particular specimen. I find my Bristletooth quite easy going towards other fish but is not always the case with this species and as a general rule they should be added as the last fish into the tank. When choosing a Bristletooth tang, look for any damage in the mouth area as it is the most common injury at collection time due to their extended mouths and teeth. Ask a store clerk at the store to feed the fish prior to purchasing so you can observe if it can feed and has no difficulties doing so. Gene Schwartz Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Clean Up Crews By: Scott Zachow

Clean Up Review Clean Up Crews By: Scott Zachow Over the years, the term Clean-up Crew has been used loosely in the online communities so to start, I would like to offer what it may refer to when used. To most, clean-up crew is used to describe herbivorous invertebrates that help keep nuisance algae "in-check". To others the term clean-up crew is used to describe the scavengers needed to populate a live deep sand bed to help to process decaying matter and to keep the sand bed aerated and alive. Both of these are important parts of the marine system and personally I don’t think it matters which one is used to describe the term. As long as you know what you’re seeking to add to your tank and for what reason (utilitarian or ornamental) you can add any definition to the term you want. What I intend for this article is to give some general ideas to the various "clean-up crew" participants that are available and their usefulness to the marine aquarium. Herbivorous Algae Eaters For most people the first thing added to their marine aquarium after the initial cycle is some herbivorous algae eaters. These are utilitarian additions for the sole purpose of trying to battle nuisance algae that shows its ugly face early in the game. Diatoms and Cyanobacteria are the 2 most commonly noted after the initial cycle of the system. Tip For years, adding some type of hardy fish (usually Damsel Fish) to cycle an aquarium was common practice. Although effective for the captive environment the method was cruel and unnecessary for the fish. Many local stores trying to make a dollar will still recommend the inexpensive Damsel Fish to be used to kick start the bacteria populations needed to maintain the stable environment. Today, live rock is the best option for kick starting these populations and pushing the system through the nitrogen cycle. If live rock is not incorporated into the system, a raw piece of shrimp can be placed into a “sock” and placed into the tank for a week and then removed. The decomposing shrimp will help start the needed bacteria populations. Other alga that may be encountered as the tank continues to develop and age is hair algae (Derbesia), bubble algae (Valonia) and other various green and brown film and filamentous algae. Snails have different capabilities to eat different algae, listed below is a list of the commonly available snails and what they are useful for eating. Turbo Snails (Turbo fluctuousus, Turbo castenea) – Turbo snails are quick moving and a bit larger than other snails that we’ll discuss. They are hardy eaters and probably the best at attacking Derbesia and other filamentous algae. Due to the snails large appetites and the speed at which they eat, it is recommended that only a couple of them be added to the aquarium. Adding more than this will most likely cause starvation in the long term unless supplemental food is provided. Most of us want to rid the tank of nuisance algae, not introduce it to keep some snails alive.   Left: The larger, fast moving and voracious eating Mexican Turbo Snail. Right: Astraea Snails sometimes get flipped upside down and cannot turn themselves over, requiring assistance from the hobbyist. Astraea Snails (Astraea tectum, Astraea phoebia) – Commonly spelled Astrea, these snails are handy at eating green and brown film algae that inevitably cloud our viewing panes. They are also helpful to add after a new marine aquarium has cycled and the Diatom bloom has started. Astraea snails are slow moving and slightly less desirable than others due to their inability to right themselves if they get turned upside down. Due to this prohibiting factor, when an Astaea is found upside down, the aquarist is forced to help them over which can be a tedious task. Although they are useful for film algae, due to their inability to right themselves it is recommended to only put 1 per 5 gallons of water. Tip Diatoms are commonly brown rust colored algae that bloom in the early stages of a maturing tank or in mature tanks that have experienced a lack of care for some time. It is highly nutrient driven in that reducing the level of said nutrients will succumb the bloom. Since new systems experience a high level of nutrients as it continuous through the initial nitrogen cycle, new systems almost always experience this unsightly bloom. The film can cover everything, turning your beautiful coralline covered liverock into brown rock and the same for your bright white sand bed. Rest easy, the bloom will eventually pass. It is important to note that no Snail should be introduced into the aquarium until the cycle is complete and the levels (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, etc.) will support their long term existence. Trochus Snails (Trochus sp.) – Available cultured; Trochus snails are in the reach of every aquarists and should be included in any algae eating livestock package to help control nuisance algae. Trochus Snails eat a variety of aquarium algae from filamentous to film, especially diatoms, and do not grow large like the Turbo Snails making them an excellent addition. At younger ages, Trochus Snails also often culture and lay eggs in captivity. You will typically not see the eggs hatch because they quickly become natural food for your tank. You could easily place 1 Trochus Snail per 2-3 gallons of system volume. Trochus Snails, available cultured and excellent algae eaters. Nerite Snails (Nerita and Neritina) – Another common egg layer, Nerite Snails have quickly gained in popularity over the years for their ability to tend to nuisance algae especially on plants and macroalgae. Nerites at times need to come out of submersion so they may be better suited in tidal displays. Their ability to clean algae from other desirable plants and macroalgae make them excellent refugium candidates and could be added at 1 per gallon of refugium volume. Stomatella Snails (Stomatella varia) – This snail is typically not purchased yet a very common and very prolific hitch hiker. The Stomatella is fast moving compared to other snails and has only a very small shell in comparison to others. Almost any reefer that has purchased an amount of liverock and gazed at their tank at night has noted an abundance of Stomatella Snails that they have never seen before, as this is a nocturnal herbivore. Due to their rapid reproduction, some people consider there a nuisance and they can be but fear not, there are many other reefers that would love to have a few if your willing to catch them and take them to local club meetings. 2 small Stomatella Snails, note the very small shell. Bumble Bee Snails (Engina mendicaria) – These Snails should be avoided in the common reef aquaria due to their predatory nature to eat sand bed fauna. They simply lack the ability to eat algae although they are commonly sold as snails that will do such. Since these predators are likely to eat the worms and other desirable life one would want in a tank with a thriving deep sand bed, these snails should be avoided. Margarita Snails (Margarites sp.) – This is another snail that is available and sold to aquarists as a tropical herbivore snail that would be a beneficial part of a “clean-up crew”. On the contrary, these snails are temperate snails and will not survive in a typical reef system kept at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Sometimes common Turbo Snails may be misidentified as Margarita Snails but since we are not likely to make a positive identification, they too should be avoided.   Left: The very colorful Bumble Bee snails can be enticing, but should be avoided due to their predatory nature. Right: Margarita Snails should also be avoided as they are a temperate snail. Sand Bed Fauna As mentioned at the beginning of this article, "clean-up crews" may also mean life that is necessary or beneficial to deep live sand beds. Since some snails should only be kept with deep sand beds but too are herbivores, I have decided to list these in this section along with other desirables for a sand bed. Tip Sand bed fauna is necessary to keep a sand bed aerated as well as to help push detritus through the different depths where it can be processed by said fauna and bacteria. Due to expected life spans of some fauna and the predatory fish that may be kept in an aquarium with them, it is necessary to replenish the life in your sand bed occasionally; some people suggest that once per year is best. Cerith Snails (Cerithium) – These snails are very active eaters that will help control outbreaks of nuisance film algae, especially diatom outbreaks in new aquariums. The added benefit to these snails is they are also live sand bed agitators, but do not have to be kept exclusively in aquaria with sand beds; although it is recommended. The Cerith snails are also long lived in captivity, which also makes them great candidates for the reef aquarium. They stay reasonably small and will not bother others kept with them in the reef. The amount of Cerith snails to add to your aquarium is dependant on the amount of food available to them; just like all snails. 1 per 5 gallons of water would be a good start. Nassarius Snails (Nassarius vibex) – Nassarius snails are excellent additions to a tank or refugium with a deep live sand bed. These snails will bury themselves under the substrate until feeding time when they quickly emerge. This activity provides excellent agitation to the sand bed and stirs the top layer time and time again. Nassarius snails feed on carrion and other natural waste in the aquarium and will also eat on brine and mysis shrimp when fed to the aquarium. The main purpose in the aquarium is to keep a sand bed agitated and to help remove waste that builds on the surface of the sand bed. These snails are often mistaken for Ilyanassa obsolete but this can be visually determined as the Nassarius snails have a groove in their aperture that the Ilyanassa obsolete does not have. The Ilyanassa obsolete are also larger than the Nassarius vibex. I would recommend 1 Nassarius vibex per 2 gallons of water, only in an aquarium with a deep live sand bed. Tall tanks would alter this recommendation. Recommended for any tank with a deep sand bed, Nassarius Snails bury themselves in the sand until feeding time. Worms (Polychaete annelid) – There are many, many different types of Polychaete worms and for possible identifications, I will refer you to Dr. Ron Shimek 3 part articles on them in the references below. When one encounters a worm in the reef aquarium, it is commonly referred to as a Bristle Worm or Fire Worm and for the sake of this article; we’ll leave it as just that. The things to note is that these worms whether hitch hikers or deliberately purchased, are very beneficial members of "clean up crews" in tanks with live deep sand beds. They are excellent scavengers and excellent agitators for the sand bed helping to push detritus through the different layers of the bed. Most of the time, purchasing a large quantity of good quality cured liverock will provide enough Polychaete annelids to the aquarium but if desired they can also be purchased from some Internet sites. The Crabs – I have opted to place all crabs in this one grouping for one simple reason, I do not recommend them as a part of any clean up crew. Crabs are opportunistic omnivores, that is they will eat other members of your clean up crew if they have the chance. Some people say that Blue-Legged Hermits are ok; some say that Scarlet Hermits are ok… I say that they can be problematic at any point so it’s best to avoid them all together. If one has a tank without any snails, crabs can be introduced into an aquarium fairly safely and they do make pretty good scavengers. My recommendation here would be to try and find some small crabs that stay small to ensure they don’t become problematic. In a lot of cases, one may choose to add a variety of all these clean up crewmembers in their aquarium and a mixed variety is probably best. As long as enough food is provided these guys will provide good service for a long time. Whether your clean up crew needs are for nuisance algae or utilitarian for a live sand bed, choose the members wisely with the information provided here. Since most places sell clean up crew packages that contain a mix of snails and crabs it is best to avoid such package deals. There are many online shops that will allow you to pick and choose your own package items from which you can choose suitable members for your tank. Reef On! Scott Zachow References and Additional Reading: Calfo, Anthony and Fenner, Robert. 2003. Reef Invertebrates. Reading Trees, Monroeville, PA. 399 pp. Nassarius vibex and Ilyanassa obsolete – Reefland.com Forum Search http://www.reefland.com/forum/showpost.php?p=95938&postcount=17 Polychaete annelids – Dr. Ron Shimek 3 part series. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/rs/index.htm http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.htm http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/rs/index.htm Pictures courtesy of Seacrop Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Beautiful Seagrasses - Keeping True Flowering Plants in Your Marine Aquarium By: Anthony Calfo

Main Attraction Beautiful Seagrasses - Keeping True Flowering Plants in Your Marine Aquarium By: Anthony Calfo Sought after by aquarists around the world, the Hawaiian bristle-tooth, Ctenochaetus hawaiiensis, is a member of the best Tang genus for algae control on soft substrates like in seagrass displays. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo For some years now, private aquarists have begun to realize success with the culture of true, vascular, marine plants. While the number of flowering species available in the hobby is rather small, their natural distribution on or near coral reefs is quite great! Some can be found approaching the deepest range of photosynthetic life in the sea, while others occur within the first few meters of the surface. These plants live in a wide range of conditions too, from cold temperate seas through to warm tropical waters. Yet for all the geographical differences between them, they have many common traits in husbandry and handling that make their care in aquaria a very straightforward endeavor. For the purpose of this article, the focus will be on genera that we commonly call "seagrass", although other marine plants such as Rhizophora (Red Mangrove) and Halophila (Paddleweed) share similar needs, benefits and purpose in aquaria. There are even some interesting brackish species like Ruppia maritima (Beaked Tasselweed) that are both interesting and hardy, ranging from fresh to full seawater. A closer look at coastal waters and salt marshes will reveal quite a number of other candidates to you for aquarium use. And with the increased application of refugiums and natural filtration strategies, our appreciation of marine plants will grow stronger in time! Best Bets: For American aquarists, the most familiar seagrass is Thalassia testudinum, collected from Atlantic waters, although imports (seeds) from islands in the Tropical Pacific (such as Fiji) do make seasonal appearances. This species, Thalassia hemprichii, is widely distributed - including the Philippines. Either species is suitable for aquarium use, largely do to the sturdy form (reasonably hardy to handle and prune) as well as modest maximum size; they can be cropped nicely at 12"/30 cm. Blades are flat and wide (1/2"/12 mm.) and can reach one meter in height, although less than half of that is more common. Thalassia produces the largest flowers (pale white/pink) and seeds of all the currently kept seagrasses. "Manatee grass", Syringodium filiforme, can be found in many of the same regions of the Atlantic/Caribbean as Thalassia. They also make their way into the US hobby. A Pacific species, S. isoetifolium, occurs in Australia and New Zealand waters. Although hardy enough to establish and culture, this genus is slightly more challenging to keep by private aquarists if only for their need for very large, tall tanks (towards 1 m in height) and the significant hardware (large, expensive pumps) needed to produce adequate water flow in such vessels. Like Turtle grass, Manatee grass requires regular cropping of the blade tops to prevent overgrowth, disease or infection. "Blades" of manatee grass are tubular or cylindrical in nature. The flowers are very small, inconspicuous and slow to appear in home grown colonies. Zostera marina, "Eelgrass", looks very similar to Syringodium, but is impractical for casual reef aquarists due to its cool water needs. In point of fact, however, it is a good candidate for cultivation in temperate displays for dedicated hobbyists keeping biotopes, for example. Some public aquariums have used this relatively hardy species for unique Eastern Pacific exhibits. This seagrass naturally occurs in deeper, calmer waters, which translates well in typical home aquaria that commonly lack adequate light or water movement. Zostera is usually found just below the intertidal zone. Sexual reproduction (and flowering) in this plant seems to be influenced by warmer water temperatures and, as such, may limit propagation strategies and dispersal in cooler climes. As an interesting aside, this plant is quite edible and was consumed by Native American (Indian) coastal peoples. Although hardly seen in the hobby, Shoal (Sea)grass, Halodule, is a very appealing genus for aquarium use. Its benefits include small size (more narrow blades than Thalassia and most are short at 4"/10 cm tall or less), and rather weak root system. What this means for aquarists is that large, deep sand beds (> 6"/15 cm.) are not so critical for success as it is with the other seagrasses. Halodule has much appeal for smaller refugiums and home-sized lagoonal displays. Specimens collected in the Atlantic (H. beaudettei) occur in very shallow water and tolerate a wide range of salinity. I do hope we see more of this and like species in the hobby soon. For aquarists searching for these plants and other uncommon creatures, it has been a bit of a challenge to date. As the popularity of keeping such organisms grows, so too will support from merchants. For some of these and more, there's a good chap at www.billsreef.com who can help you with his experience as a lifetime marine biologist as well as dedicated hobby mentor and volunteer. The root systems of seagrasses are very delicate! Never push specimens into the sand to plant, but dig a hole and bury them gently. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo Handling: One of the biggest challenges to keeping seagrasses is getting healthy starters! The rhizomes/"roots" of these plants are somewhat to very sensitive to being disturbed. The very best way to transplant seagrass is to dig deep and around a patch, to be taken whole as a "plug" with undisturbed roots and substrate together. For shipping, however, this is too difficult and too expensive (the heavy weight of muddy substrates and the postage to deliver it). It is inevitable that we must accept starters as "bare root" specimens in most cases. If shopping on sight, select pieces with the longest, unbroken rhizomes. At all stages of transit, be very gentle with the runners/roots. You will notice that the roots may have an offensive (sulfur) odor from the muddy, anoxic substrates they are harvested from. This is no cause for concern. But it should remind you about the need for like (mature, nutrient rich) substrates in aquaria. More about this below. Planting seagrass is a sensitive matter just the same. They generally must be rooted at great depth. Arguably, anything less than 6"/15 cm. of substrate is not enough for long term success. By comparison, consider the potting needs of a 1-3 feet tall houseplant! Yes... seagrasses need tall tanks and deep fine substrates. Oolitic sand can be used alone if it is very mature (over one year established). But a mix of mud and fine sand (sugar-fine aragonite) may be best overall. I recommend a bed depth of at least 6"/15 cm., and preferably substrates approaching 12"/30 cm. for long term success. The depth of the aquarium is somewhat more flexible, but a water depth of 24"/50 cm. above the sand is a fair minimum. Note: Halophila, Ruppia and Halodule are exceptions among marine plants; they tolerate shallower substrates and less deep water. Never push a seagrass pod or cluster directly into the sand; driving it forcibly into the substrate can damage the crown or roots, which may be fatal for the specimen! Instead, always dig a pit and then gently lay the pod or cluster down inside before covering the roots gently. It is important to note that most seagrasses need to be planted rather deep into the new substrate. About 3"/7.5 cm. minimum below the surface of the substrate is recommended. Anything less reduces the likelihood of a successful transplant. Seagrasses transplanted from the wild will generally lose their original (shipped) leaves in the ensuing weeks and months. This is very normal and is commonly observed in other aquatic plants after a change in light or water depth. In some cases, the plant appears to die back completely with no sign of life for many months. But after five months or even longer, the roots may sprout anew! Leave the rhizomes buried even after the blades have died back with hope for such recovery. Deep, fine, soft substrates are best for seagrasses. Six inches (15 cm.) is the minimum recommended depth. Add mud for better results. Picture and Caption by Anthony Calfo Husbandry: As mentioned above, a nutrient rich substrate is necessary for best success with seagrasses. If you ever get the chance to dig around in the substrates of a seagrass meadow, you will appreciate this intimately. A bit too intimately... bring nose plugs! Using mud in a fine sand mix is helpful, but patience and time is the best recipe for success here. Plumb the seagrass aquarium inline with the rest of the aquarium system and allow the substrate to mature for at least six months. Twelve months or more is better. Fertilization of the roots may be helpful, but must be done carefully (small, weak doses). Aquatic plants and algae are unique in that they do not depend on substrates like terrestrial plants do for their principal nutrient base. Aquatics can draw such elements through their stems and leaves too. Be sure to provide very strong water flow. If possible, generate surge-style flow to help thrash and wash sediments and epiphytic matter off the seagrasses (this wash is very good matter for filter feeders!). You will likely need to employ some gastropods or fishes to rasp the leaves of seagrass for improved health and vigor. Trim dead or dying tips off actively. One of the theories revolving around seagrass diseases in places around the world is that larger grazing animals such as turtles and manatees have been overfished. Some such large herbivores are active grazers on seagrass, but dwindling numbers of these creatures in recent centuries has led to overgrowth of the plants. Overgrowth stifles vigor and water flow and increases the risk of disease. Prune your seagrasses actively (monthly). This is not only a means of nutrient export, but it stimulates health and vigor exactly as it does in terrestrial plants! Lighting varies by species, but generally speaking... bright warm daylight is best for seagrass species. A minimum of 5 watts per gallon of 4000-7000K lamp color over aquaria less than 30"/75 cm in height is a good starting point. Excessively blue spectrums will handicap the growth of most common seagrass species. Look for lamps that have a high CRI rating as well (over 90 ideally). You can find inexpensive and useful plant-suitable lamps and fixtures at the local DIY home store (lumber and hardware store). A search of reef hobby message boards will often lead to specific brand and model recommendations for stores in your area. Aquarium-specific lighting, although more expensive, is generally best of all though. Daylight temperature metal halides will generally support the fastest growth of shallow water species. If the seagrass display is to keep cnidarian animals, lamp temperatures closer to 10, 000K are acceptable and perhaps preferable, depending on the needs of the species kept. Seagrasses will still grow very well under such "10k" light. If nothing else, the bluer light is aesthetically more attractive to most people. Why Keep Seagrasses: There are many reasons for keeping seagrass displays and refugiums. Studying these unique plants helps us see the much broader picture of how expansive reef communities really are. Specific biotopes like seagrass meadows and mangrove swamps play crucial roles in the overall support and survival of coastal and reef ecosystems. They bring many of these benefits to aquarium culture as well. Just like desirable algae species, seagrasses trap and utilize nutrients like phosphate and nitrate. In fixing these compounds, they improve water quality and serve as a vehicle for nutrient recycling when eaten by creatures, or nutrient export when harvested out of the sea or aquarium. The very surface of grass blades is a living substrate for the cultivation of epiphytic matter that gets liberated with surging water flow and rasping herbivores. Some species of cnidarians, like free-living Goniopora, have been linked to seagrass meadows with an implicated need for the relationship and proximity of the plants for health/survival. Of perhaps worthy anecdotal mention: the author’s own best success, like that of some other aquarists, with Goniopora stokesi living for many years and reproducing by numerous daughter satellites have all been in the company of seagrasses. Many, many years ago... one of the author's 240 gallon seagrass refugiums with free-living, reproducing Goniopora stokesi in residence. Picture by Bob Fenner, Caption by Anthony Calfo Seagrass exhibits also afford more natural and successful displays of lagoonal species of fishes and other reef creatures. Syngnathids (pipefish and seahorses) do remarkably well in seagrass systems for having behavioral enrichment as well as matrices and substrates for cultivating more natural prey such as copepods. Some anemones, jellyfishes and Fungiid corals, for example, are displayed more naturally in lagoonal displays. Seagrass habitats in the wild are largely in need of protection. To do this successfully, we must study and understand the organisms. Aquarists can contribute to this understanding and conservation by learning to successfully culture seagrasses and the natural species they support, and sharing results with the aquatic science community of hobbyists and academics at large. With kindest regards, Anthony Calfo Bibliography and Recommended Reading: Littlers, Diane and Mark, 1989 Smithsonian Institution Press. http://www.sheddaquarium.org/sea/fact_sheets.cfm?id=112 http://www.ukmarinesac.org.uk/communities/zostera/z3_1.htm Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Refugium Installation Options By: Steven Pro

Extra Extra! Variations on a Refugium: Installation Options By: Steven Pro I am an equipment junky. Don’t get that confused with a technology buff, though. I hate gadgets. I don’t use electronic probes to monitor my display’s pH, ORP, temperature, salinity, or anything else. A refractometer and simple colorimetric test kits work good enough for me. I don’t even use a mechanized top-off unit. Starting a slow siphon each morning before the lights come on to dose kalkwasser and keep up with evaporation works just fine and I don’t see a reason to change. The fewer gizmos you use, the fewer things can malfunction or break. I am an advocate of the keep it simple mentality. But, I do appreciate something that is well designed and constructed, that performs superbly and efficiently, and is also a good value for the price. In that sense, I love to check out the latest pieces of technology, see how they work, and evaluate if I need one. So, while I leave my good friend Anthony Calfo to discuss the pro’s and con’s of the livestock common in refugia, I am going to focus on the more mechanical aspects of refugium technology. In this first installment, I am going to discuss the various locations one could place a refugium in relation to the main display and the inherent positives and negatives about each installation option. There are basically three places to put a refugium; above the tank, below the tank, or beside the tank. Any of these can be a desirable addition to the overall aquatic system. It is just that some of these locations are better for certain desired applications, while others excel in different ones. Let us take a look at these refugium installation options. Below Tank If the aquarium already has a sump setup, a below tank refugium is the easiest to install as well as the easiest to hide. It is this second quality which lends itself to this type of refugium being a true working refugium. If it does not have to be attractive, then the only concern is to maximize production and usefulness. Since they are hidden, than can be ugly and not detract from the rest of the display. Plus, it will save you the ear beating you would get from your better half if it was a visible eye sore. This type of layout is also the most versatile. Any commercially available stand could hold and conceal a below tank refugium. This design could also easily be incorporated in a sump system when the tank is in a wall with a fish room behind it or when the plumbing is all run to the basement. Any aquarium that already has or is planned to have a sump can also have a below tank refugium. A typical below tank refugium that is sectioned off in the sump for the tank. This is the most commonly used refugium system since most tanks already incorporate sumps and the refugium does not require a seperate vessel. In this combination, the sump is sectioned off with 3 chambers: the first accepts the drain water from the display and contains the protein skimmer, the second is the refugium followed by a series of baffles to help remove any bubbles, and the last section is just for water. This last section is where the water level drops with evaporation. Photo and caption by Gene Schwartz Below tank refugiums usually receive raw feed water from the display. This water is rich in organics from surface tension at the air water interface as well as heavy in stirred up detritus or excess food that gets swept into the overflow. Hence, this design is great for nutrient uptake and removal. Fast growing macroalgae like Chaetomorpha or Caulerpa can utilize these nutrients and convert them into living tissue for easy removal from the system. You will also notice that in dense growths of algae a variety of critters are attracted to this ever-flowing food source. Mini brittle stars, amphipods, copepods, and mysis shrimp are some of the most common ones you will find in amongst the macroalgae growths. Again, these living creatures are there to grab a hold of any available food and convert that into living tissue. While they are unable to use every portion of that food to create tissue and do create some waste products, they are living amongst the macroalgae. In effect, the algae is capable of consuming some of their waste products just the same as the overflowing waste from the display in a symbiotic-like relationship. Additionally, below tank refugiums with their normal multitude of baffles to trap and eliminate bubbles also tend to trap detritus. In effect, these baffles tend to operate as a settling chamber and when the hobbyist routinely siphons out this debris, they further facilitate nutrient export. As you can see, these below display designs operate optimally for nutrient export. And while they do harbor a number and diversity of planktonic lifeforms, to get up into the display they must pass through the return pump. This surely impacts the number of viable specimens that make their way into the display even though the exact amount of impact is debatable. Sperm, eggs, and small larvae could conceivably pass through unharmed, but larger adults are likely to become shredded. Although pulverized, dead crustaceans are still edible just as live, whole ones are, if the intent is a steady supply of live plankton to feed into the display, there are better placement options, which leads me to discuss the next installation option. Above Tank This design is by far the best for introducing live plankton into the display because they are gently gravity fed into the aquarium from the refugium versus traveling through the pump to make their way into the display. This ensures that both offspring, reproductive material (eggs and sperm), and adults alike can re-colonize the heavily grazed and preyed upon display. For as good as this layout is for plankton production, it unfortunately is not nearly as good for nutrient uptake and removal as the below tank design assuming that the system utilizes both a sump and above tank refugium. In this scenario, the water coming to the refugium from the sump is likely to already be heavily scrubbed of nutrients by the sump’s protein skimmer, by chemical filtration media located there, mechanical filtration, and/or possibly another refugium. The other drawback to this layout is it is not as easily incorporated into most displays. It can be retrofitted fairly painlessly into tanks that are built into a wall. In these instances, a portion of the return pumps water can be diverted and sent to a secondary aquarium mounted on a secure shelf above the display. Unfortunately, not all of us have setups such as this. Most hobbyists are working with commercially available aquarium and stand kits. This makes creating a seamless appearance of an above tank refugium with a display tank difficult. Best of Both Worlds It should not be a great leap in logic to see that combining two refugiums, one above tank and one below tank, will theoretically yield the best results. It just takes some planning and forethought to incorporate both and is not easily retrofitted into existing displays unless you have a considerable amount of room to work with, as is the case with in the wall designs. But, two refugiums also gives you additional options as far as differing the substrates in each or varying the lighting schedules (all subjects that will be discussed in future editions). For instance, the below tank refugium could focus on macroalgae growth while the above tank refugium’s primary goal was generating amphipods, copepods, and mysis shrimp. Or, the below tank refugium could grow macroalgae with a 24/7 lighting schedule while the above tank one could operate without lighting to create a cryptic zone that promotes feather dusters and/or sponges for their filter feeding capacity. Truly, the options are limitless. One only needs to research a little to custom tailor a refugium package that best suits their specific aquatic pets’ needs. Beside Main Display There is yet another option when it comes to locating a refugium. One could install it beside the display tank, in effect creating a second smaller display. This is a display in and of itself, so the final appearance is important while plankton generation or nutrient export are secondary concerns. This would be a refugium in the broadest sense of the term. It would simply be a place of refuge for a specimen or species that could not be housed in the main display for whatever reason. One could seek to showcase something unusual, beautiful, or small that would otherwise be lost in the larger display tank. For instance, there are many smaller shrimp that are less bold and would not be as easily observed in a large aquarium but could become a focal point of a smaller display. Harlequin and Sexy shrimp are two that come to mind. Additionally, this smaller display could house a Mantis shrimp that would problematic in the main aquarium, but could be safely housed here. Also, you could design this refugium mostly for the beauty and appreciation of unusual plants and animals, for biotopic displays, or an attempt to build a larger reef ecosystem. For instance, a lagoon for seagrasses, mangroves, urchins, snails, seastars, etc. would be appealing, interesting, and unusual. These types of refugiums are easy enough to install. Simply get another tank and stand that matches the main display, place them near enough to one another to plumb them to a common sump, and you are done. While you won’t contribute much in the way of plankton generation or nutrient export, you will increase the total gallons of the system, which increases stability. Plus, you have added to the beauty and your personal admiration of your display and there is something to be said for that. Hang On Back Hang on back refugiums can fall under either the above tank or below tank category depending on their exact configuration. If the water is pumped from the display into the refugium and allowed to gravity flow back into the aquarium, than it is technically an above tank refugium. On the other hand, there are designs which use a siphon to draw water into the refugium and then have a pump return the water back into the display. These would have to be considered below tank refugiums. Regardless of which type the hang on refugium is, these tend to have additional limitations. They are generally small because weight bearing down on the display aquarium is a real concern. As such, their ability to produce plankton and/or grow macroalgae is restricted. But in my opinion, any refugium is better than none. Hang on the back refugiums have grown in popularity mainly because they are easy to add to an already running marine aquarium. These refugiums are effective, but limited in size. They can be used to hold a small sand bed, some liverock rubble and various macroalgae for nutrient export. Photo by orion25. Caption by Gene Schwartz On the positive side, these refugiums are extremely easy to install as long as there is sufficient room between the display and any walls behind it. Also, for smaller aquaria, sumpless systems, or undrilled tanks (I will save you all from my rant against siphon overflows), they are the best solution for incorporating a refugium into the overall system. You should be able to see now that there is a range of options as far as where to locate a refugium. And hopefully, I have sufficiently laid out the pros and cons of each installation option such that you can make an educated decision as to which one best suits your tank’s needs. And lastly, any refugium is better than none, so decide which location can work for you and get to work. Steven Pro Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Featured Member - Take 2 By: Eric and Sheila Ropke

Featured Member Take 2 - ereefic and klasikb Tank Size: 110 Gallon - 48"x24"x22" Lighting: 2x250w MH with 10k XM's and 220w of VHO URI Super Actinic. VHO's are on from 11am to 11pm. MH's are on from 1pm to 9pm. Filtration: My Reef Creations MR-1 Protein Skimmer run with a Gen-X 6000 pump in a 30 gallon sump. 10 gallon refugium, fed from sump with a Maxi-Jet 600, with Chaetomorpha only lit by 18w PC 50/50 bulb run on reverse daylight. Circulation: Return pump is a Mag 9.5 going to a SCWD with 2 outlets in the tank. A Mag 12 as a closed loop pump running a spraybar in the back of the tank on the bottom blowing to the front. There are also 2 Rio Seio 820's in the tank along with a Maxi-Jet 1200. Current Fish: Yellow Tang Powder Brown Tang Kole Tang Blue Jaw Trigger Corals: All corals in this tank are SPS corals, 55 in all. 99% of the corals in the tank started as frags, many from local reefers. I’m not good with names of corals but there are many different varieties in there. Current Water Parameters: All testing is done with Salifert Test kits with the exception of pH which is monitored with a Milwaukee SMS122 pH controller. Alkalinity - 10.2 dkh Calcium – 430 ppm Nitrate – 0 ppm Phosphate – 0 ppm Magnesium – 1300 ppm pH – 7.9 to 8.1 Temp. – 78 to 81 Misc. Goodies: For topping off the tank we use a Tsunami AT-1 auto top off unit with a 10 gallon tank holding the top off water. A Korallin C1502 Calcium Reactor is taking care of the Alkalinity and Calcium demands of the tank. Mainenance Routine: I try and do a 5 gallon water change once a week but sometimes miss and then do 10 gallon change the next week. The skimmer is cleaned once a week to keep it running at peak performance. Glass cleaning when needed, usually once a week or so. Feeding: Nori on a clip is feed generally every day. A blender mush is feed usually every 2 or 3 days. The blender mush consists of prepackaged foods as well as fresh seafood. What Major Transitions Has This Tank Went Through: This aquarium has only been running for 11 months and has been pretty smooth sailing. I would say the most major transition to this tank has been the addition of a calcium reactor. Mixing kalkwasser on a daily basis gets very tedious very quickly. What Drives This Beautiful Aquarium: Our love of the animals is what drives us to do our best at providing them with the proper requirements to thrive throughout there life. Future Plans: The plan for this tank is to let everything grow out nice and big. Some times we don’t think that is ever going to happen with all the fragging we do. We are in the process of planning a 210 gal. in which our 120 gal. softie and LPS will be moved into. In your mind, what is ethical reefkeeping? Ethical reefkeeping to us is keeping our inhabitants healthy and happy. Sharing corals with others with the hope of one day minimizing what is taken off the reefs. And sharing our knowledge with others to minimize mistakes that cause loss of reef life. Any advice for others? Read!! - There is a lot of information out there and so many people willing to share there experiences and help each other out. You can learn so much to better yourself as a reefkeeper and to better care for the animals you intend to keep. Plan!! - Don’t be in a rush to get a tank set up. Plan it out and save up if you have to in order to buy quality equipment. Doing it right the first time will save you a lot of money and headaches in the future. Be patient!! – The reefs weren't built in a day neither should yours. Taking your time with setting up a tank is very difficult due to the excitement of the end result, but taking your time is so important in building a stable environment for the critters we find so fascinating. Keep it simple!! If you would like to discuss this feature with ereefic and klasikb or to Congratulate them, please do so in this thread. Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

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