Table of Contents:

September 2005 Edition Introduction: Introduction to September 2005 RHO By: Scott Zachow & Gene Schwartz Cover Photo: Chelmon rostratus - Copperbanded Butterflyfish By: Kevin Pockell Nuisance Algae In The Reef Aquarium - Part 1 By: Scott Zachow Main Attraction: The Use, Overuse, and Abuse of Biological Controls By: Steven Pro Aquarium Logging Software Personal Online Aquarium Log By: Scott Zachow & Gene Schwartz Featured Member: Tank Gallery By: Reefland Members

Genus Tridacna By: Kevin Pockell

Cover Photograph Chelmon rostratus - Copperbanded Butterflyfish By: Kevin Pockell Photo by Mike LaPorte One of the most exotic looking yet inexpensive and readily available Butterflyfish is the Chelmon rostratus (Copperbanded Butterflyfish). They have a large natural range covering the Indo-west Pacific. Most tank specimens are in the 5-7" range and need a tank of at least 75 gallons with ample liverock, in which they spend most of their time inspecting every nook and cranny with their elongated mouth looking for an easy snack. While they may require special attention in regards to acclimation, diet and water quality their endearing personality makes it well worth the effort. They are fairly well behaved in a reef tank but will usually eat Feather Dusters, and small worms. A few may nip large polyps stony corals or clam mantles. Selecting a healthy specimen and housing it with proper tank mates are two of the most important keys to success with this species. Photo by Mike LaPorte Selection When selecting a specimen look carefully at the mouth and nose for any signs of injury or damage. These delicate areas can be easily injured during capture and shipment and often result in secondary infections or cause the animal not to eat. Make sure the body is full especially in the area just below the dorsal fin. If it is sunken it is a sign of long-term lack of nutrition and few fish recover without special treatment and care (such as housing it its own tank and feeding it 4-5 times a day). When observing the fish it should be on an almost constant hunt of the rocks and/or plants looking for small worms to eat. With the Copperbanded Butterflyfish you will increase your chances of success greatly if it is already eating at the store. I recommend asking to see it eat and note what foods they have been using. Photo by Gene Schwartz Feeding As the size of their mouth would suggest they can only eat very small particles. I have yet to see one pass up small feather dusters that come as hitch hikers on live rock so if you have a prized colony of them a Copperband will make short work of them. A few foods to have on hand to try are mysis shrimp, raw shrimp, live brine shrimp, frozen brine shrimp. Small steamer clams and mussel still in the shell can also be used but be sure to promptly remove uneaten portion as they can quickly decay and pollute your aquarium. Freeze dried plankton presoaked in a little tank water is also a good choice. They often become quite tame and will eat from your fingers. They are not aggressive feeders at first and as such should not be housed with aggressive tank mates. Once they are eating well and settle in to your tank they will come to the surface and beg for food with the rest of their tank mates. Photo by Gene Schwartz Compatibility Unless your tank is very large (180+ gal) or the Copperband is established in the tank first, most Tangs and large Angelfish will not tolerate the addition of a Butterflyfish. Pygmy Angelfishes are more accepting but a well-established individual may chase and harass the newcomer. It will usually ignore most invertebrates such as ornamental shrimp, hermit crabs, and starfish. With the proper selection, housing, and diet this is a long-lived species that has quite the personality and well worth the effort required to meet its special needs. Kevin Pockell Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Nuisance Algae in the Reef Aquarium By Scott Zachow

Nuisance Algae in the Reef Aquarium - Part 1 By: Scott Zachow At one time or another every aquarist experiences problems with nuisance algae. It's not just a problem that plagues new hobbyist; the most seasoned aquarist can experience the dreaded hair algae or cyanobacteria outbreak. As Steven Pro points out in his “Use, Misuse and Abuse of Biological Controls” article in this same edition of Reef Hobbyist Online, purchasing cleaning crews isn't the appropriate way to deal with the problem. Many people add various species of snails and other nuisance algae eating invertebrates and they are helpful, but there is a root cause to the problem; one that is not always easily found. In this series of articles I will explain the different types of fuel that allow these unsightly algae to take over an aquarium. We will also detail step by step actions taken to identify the fuel(s) that are present in my own 75 gallon reef and which parts of my husbandry still need to be changed to overcome the problem. When people post threads on Reefland's Forum to voice their discouragement with unsightly nuisance algae, the typical response, even from me is "You need to find the source of the nutrients." That's easier said than done, right? Besides, our aquariums are nothing but artificial oceans lacking the nutrient cycles present in nature. We have to add top off water (which probably contains nutrients), we have to feed our fish regularly, and often, to maintain their health (foods contain nutrients, and when uneaten leads to real nutrient problems), those same fish are producing feces (which if uneaten is nothing but nutrients) and the list goes on. Most of this is considered to lead to Nitrate problems in the aquarium, but there are other types of nutrients that cause problems and other combinations of elements that can become problematic. A typical view of an over run area in the aquarium. Here is mix of undesirable algae is taking over. All aquarists are familiar with nitrate, the end product of nitrification. In the nitrogen cycle ammonia is converted to nitrite, which is then converted to nitrate. In anything but the smallest level nitrate fuels the growth of undesirable algae in the reef aquarium. The sources for nitrate are uneaten food and poor quality water that is used for the aquarium. Although these sources add nitrate to the water, an aquarium that is overstocked and unable to process the nitrate is just as bad. Since the waste produced in the aquarium has to be processed, overstocking an aquarium can put such a load on the exporting mechanisms that they cannot keep up. Phosphate is another key contributor to undesirable algae in the aquarium. Phosphorus is a part of every living animal and is necessary, but in elevated amounts, helps to fuel undesirable algae growth and also inhibits calcification. Phosphate is added to the aquarium in several ways, but more often through food and water sources. Food is a significant source of phosphate and still contributes after it’s been eaten as it is present in fecal matter. Tap water is the other main source. One difficult aspect of solving phosphate problems is measuring it in the aquarium. Most test kits measure PO4 in orthophosphate, however it may be in both organic and inorganic forms. Since most foods add phosphate in organic forms, it doesn’t come as a surprise that PO4 is often not detectable with the readily available test kits. Silicates are another source, although this typically leads to increased diatom growth. The primary entry point for silica into the reef aquarium is through tap water. If one decides to use silica-based sand, this could also be another source. Studies have shown that silica, although allowing diatom growth to increase could be a beneficial addition to the tank (Holmes-Farley, Randy, Ph.D. Advanced Aquarist). I personally wouldn’t recommend deliberately adding silica and since the algae that we are battling are not diatom, we will exclude Silicates as a source of our problems. Most water companies publish their water tests annually or bi-annually. Some of them test for more elements than others, but your local results should be available perhaps as easily as the Internet. Here are the Louisville, KY water results from The Louisville Water Company for 2005 http://www.lwcky.com/water_quality/ccr2005.pdf. I wouldn't rely on the information totally; it's always a good idea to test the water yourself. As you can see in my case, the phosphate or silicate readings aren’t even available. For Nitrate, we have 1ppm. Lighting has also been mentioned to cause algae blooms. It is suggested that when lights age and shift in intensity and spectrum, light at the red end of the spectrum can increase the growth of algae. As where the red spectrum may be beneficial to the growth of algae, it is still true that nutrients are elevated in the aquarium. Without the nutrients, the algae would never have the necessary fuel to grow. Algae blooms in the aquarium all come back to either a lack of husbandry, or source water with undetected nutrients being used for water changes or top-off water. In our aquarium, we have a couple of different types of algae bloomed to undesirable levels. The first and most common algae are Derbesia sp., commonly referred to as Hair Algae. This is a very fast growing algae that can quickly take over an aquarium. It does not have the ability to harm corals directly, but can by shading corals from needed light and by taking over the same substrate that corals grow on. The smallest skeletal exposure on a coral can also be covered with hair algae and that will most likely lead to the demise of the coral since it will continually and aggressively out compete the coral for space and light. Hair Algae grows in varying lengths and green colors from bright green to dark green. A small patch of Derbesia sp. growing in front of a T. derasa. Bryopsis has also recently started to grow in the aquarium. This algae is easily identified by the feather shaped thalli although from a distance it would appear to be common hair algae. In our tank, the Bryopsis is a deeper green than the Derbesia and has grown a lot taller. Since the hair algae isn't too tall it would indicate that tank inhabitants either graze on it or it's just starting to grow. As hair algae becomes more established, it grows rather long and attaches to the substrate stronger making it harder for manual removal. The feather like filaments are visible in this picture indicative of Bryopsis. This is starting to spread faster than the other algae in the aquarium. Valonia sp. or Bubble Algae is another that is growing rapidly in our reef. They are commonly called this because they look like green bubbles or marbles. Ventricaria sp. look almost identical and may more accurately describe what we have in our aquarium since they are better known to grow in clusters or into colonies. It's hard to distinguish between the two since we have grown both types; solitary bubbles and groups. This may be the most challenging to eradicate from the tank since they are not known to grow simply because of excess nutrients. Once they begin to grow, if not removed, they are difficult to get rid since when they are busted, they release hundreds of tiny "spores" that settle and generate a new "bubble". It's obvious why this is commonly referred to as Bubble Algae. The last type of algae that is growing is unidentified. It is a wafer type of brown algae that grows in a similar fashion as coralline algae. It spreads in mats on the rock structure and on plastic in the tank (both the overflow and on powerheads). In small amounts, or alone, this algae wouldn’t be unsightly or problematic but it is growing for the same reasons as the other algae; excessive nutrients. An unidentified algae growing in the aquarium. Although it isn't as unsightly as the others, it could quickly take over the tank. The Steps As mentioned early in this article, we will not attempt biological controls of the algae except for what controls are already in the aquarium. This series will document that steps taken to bring the aquarium back in control through better husbandry skills identification of the root causes fueling the algae. There are animals in the tank that may help with the control which include a Paracanthurus hepatus which has been in the tank since 10-27-2003, several Astraea snails and a couple of Turbo fluctuosa snails all of which were added on 5-30-2004. Other than those, there are no other algae eating inhabitants in the aquarium although there are also 2 Amphiprion ocellaris clownfish, 1 Gramma melacara and 1 Chelmon rostratus. The newest is the Copperband Butterflyfish but was introduced more than 6 months ago. Corals include a couple of Montipora sp. and a couple of Acropora sp.. There are also 3 Tridacna clams in the aquarium. Tank and Equipment: 75-gallon AGA Reef Ready Tank with a 20-gallon sump utilizing a MAG 7 return pump. 2 Tunze Stream 6060’s and 4 Maxi-Jet 1200’s on a Red Sea Wavemaster provide internal circulation. Protein Skimming is performed with a My Reef Creation MR-1 powered by a MAG 18 pump. Calcium and Alkalinity maintained with a My Reef Creation dual chamber calcium reactor powered by a Maxi-Jet 1200 and MAG 2 re-circulation pump. Lighting is provided by 2-250w 10k XM Double-Ended Metal Halides for 10 hours per day. The tank contains about 65lbs of Kaelini liverock and has a bare-bottom. The current maintenance routine is as follows: Water Changes – Performed bi-weekly to every 3 weeks, 5 gallons per change. Water is made with a 4 stage RO/DI unit. Feedings occur 2 times per day, 1 with a mix of Ocean Nutrition Flake and 1 with 1 cube each of Hikari Frozen Mysis and Hikari Frozen Brine Shrimps. During now and the next article in this series, I will begin to look for the potential root causes of the algae problems and begin to verify those root causes. Detailed documentation will be kept in order to show each and every step that is taken to identify the husbandry deficiency and correct it. Throughout the time period, all test results and steps taken will also be documented in my Aquarium Log so interested readers can keep up with the progress in real time. I hope that this will be beneficial to other aquarist that has the same problems as we do and together, we can enjoy beautiful, nuisance algae free, reefs! Reef On! Scott Zachow Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

The Use, Overuse, and Abuse of Biological Controls By Steven Pro

Main Attraction The Use, Overuse, and Abuse of Biological Controls The So-Called Cleaner Crews and Nuisance 'Algae' Problems By: Steven Pro There was an old lady who swallowed a fly. I don't know why she swallowed the fly. Perhaps she'll die. There was an old lady who swallowed a spider that wiggled and giggled and tickled inside her. She swallowed the spider to catch the fly. I don't know why she swallowed the fly. Perhaps she'll die. There was an old lady who swallowed a bird. How absurd! She swallowed a bird. She swallowed the bird to catch the spider... For those of you with young children, I am sure this nursery rhyme is familiar. Or perhaps it has sparked a memory of your own from when you were young. I bring up this little story to illustrate a point about the many instances where biological controls are used inappropriately or overused. First off, I guess I should discuss just what a biological control is. It is when you utilize a live organism to control or eradicate another organism that is considered to be a pest or predator. Examples in aquarium keeping are very common. Snails, hermit crabs, urchins, Surgeonfish, and some Blennies are used everyday to control diatoms, algae, and cyanobacteria. People attempt to use Peppermint Shrimp, Berghia nudibranches, or Copperbanded Butterflyfish to rid their tanks of aiptasia anemones. Dragonets and certain wrasses are sometimes employed to control flatworms with varying levels of success. The list goes on and on. But, do any of these animals really do what has been claimed; namely that they can eradicate a nuisance for the aquarist without any work on their part? Let us take for example the newbie aquarist who has just purchased his first saltwater setup. He has just completed the installation of his 30 gallon slice of the ocean. He then releases his first acquisitions, two Ocellaris clownfish and promptly named them Marlin and Nemo. Things are going pretty well for the first few weeks. He was lucky enough to have purchased fully cured liverock from the local fish store and since it was not a long drive home, he dodged the bullet regarding cycling. Like most beginners, he has a tendency to overfeed. When he details the fuzzy globs sitting at the bottom of his tank, the shop owner tells him that he is giving them too much food. That he needs to cut back, but that he can buy a starfish to clean up the bottom. He takes this really neat looking green brittle seastar (Ophiarachna species) home and proudly shows his wife this strange new addition. Everything is cruising along swimmingly. The starfish has picked up all the excess food and the captive raised Clownfishes don't venture far from the top of the display, the area where the food is dropped, so they have avoided the starfish thus far. The problem has been solved, but the invisible nutrients from the uneaten food remain in the system. While some people are afraid of these because they have heard certain reef keeping gurus accuse them of eating corals, the majority of Asterina seastars one finds in aquaria are tan colored, found on the glass or sand, and eat diatoms. I would however remove any that are pink, purple, or found consistently on and around corals as these could be predatory. After a few weeks though, he has noticed some nasty looking brown scum growing on the glass, sand, and rockwork. He runs to the fish place and is informed he has what are called diatoms. They are normal, but that he can buy some Astraea snails to help control their growth. He agrees. The new aquarist is given the rule of thumb that an aquarium requires 1 clean up crew animal for every gallon of water. Since he has a 30 gallon tank, he is told he will need 30 snails to get rid of this nuisance algae. Bag'em up, he replies. He takes these home, does a careful drip acclimation like he was told, and these snails promptly go to work. He is amazed at how quickly the diatoms disappear and he is very pleased with most of these hard-working snails. He uses the word 'most' because some seem to be very old and in need of Medic Alert bracelets since they are constantly falling and can't get up. But all in all, he is very pleased with their cleaning duties. Although, the invisible nutrients are still in the water. About now, these invisible nutrients are beginning to fuel some hair algae. This necessitates another trip to the pet store where he buys 10 hermit crabs, 5 blue legs and 5 scarlet reef hermits, plus the Dory fish that he has been keeping an eye on for the past week. This combination is supposed to mow down his hair algae in no time. And, it does. He is truly amazed at his luck. All his life he has heard horror stories of attempts to keep a marine aquarium, but in his mind, he has done exceptionally well. This is in no small part to the excellent advice he has received from his local fish store. Every time he has any trouble, they seem to know exactly what he needs to maintain the delicate balance in his aquarium. About a week later, he notices something is awry with this Blue Tang, Dory. She quit eating, has been hiding more, seems to be panting, and looks like some of the sand is stuck to her body. So, he makes the trip back to the pet shop. This time the owner is not there, but a competent sounding young lady helps him. She says his fish has Marine Ich and needs a couple of Cleaner Shrimp, like Jacques in the movie Finding Nemo. This makes sense to him. He has had good experience with the other biological controls and the Finding Nemo reference seals the deal. He takes a pair of shrimp home, does the same drip acclimation technique he learned with the snails, and sends them off to do their work. They immediately setup cleaning stations and appear to be doing some good because he watches the Tang approach them, the shrimp climb all over the Tang, and after a few days the spots disappeared. But alas, they reappeared a few days later and this time the Clownfish are covered, too. Things start to go downhill quickly for Mr. New Aquarist at this point. He wakes up one morning to find the Green Brittle Starfish happily munching away on poor Dory. And, it is not long before the Clownfish are found to have perished. At the same time, the hair algae is growing like mad now and there is also this nasty slime algae which he is later told is cyanobacteria. The whole tank looks awful and he is cursing the hermit crabs and cleaner shrimp for not keeping the place looking better. But, the shrimp seem more inclined to eat the fish food then to clean house. And, he swears the hermit crabs have gone psychotic because he believes they are killing snails even though he has not been able to catch one of these serial killers in the act. By now he is totally frustrated. The kids cried a great deal when they had to send Dory, Marlin, and Nemo back to the sea where they came from with a flush. And, his at one time beautiful ocean display looks more like a tiny cesspool. A few weeks go by and he is happy to sell the whole thing for ten cents on the dollar in an ad in the local newspaper. Even though their first instinct might be to run out to the local fish store to buy more hermit crabs and snails or perhaps a tang, these aquarium owners would be better off cutting back on the excessive amount of pellet food offered. I use this little piece of fiction to illustrate a larger point. Take a step back and try to determine the underlying causes of any tank troubles you experience. Far too often, we have a reflex to run to the store to get a solution to the perceived problem. In many of these instances, the actual cause is overlooked or ignored while the symptoms are treated. That is not a long-term recipe for success in this hobby. I can categorically say that any and all nuisance algae problems, whether it is cyanobacteria, hair algae, dinoflagellates, Bryopsis, bubble algae, etc., has the same root cause, excess nutrients. But, that is good because that means the cure is the same for any of these plagues. All one needs to starve any outbreak back under control is the following: - Aggressive and efficient protein skimming - Regular water changes of the appropriate volume and frequency - Purified source of water (RO, RO/DI, DI-only, etc.) - High quality salt mix devoid of nitrates and phosphates - Consistent and appropriate levels for pH, calcium, and alkalinity to encourage coralline algae - Careful feeding and dosing (don’t dose what you can’t test for and only feed what your inhabitants can consume in a minute or two) - Refugium with macroalgae harvesting to compete against the nuisance outbreak - And, possibly the use of activated carbon and/or other chemical filtration media That is not to say that I am completely against using biological controls. There are several that I think are absolutely fabulous. Asterina seastars, mini brittle stars, strombus, stomatella, and cerith snails are some of my favorites. I prefer these because they all are known to reproduce easily and have offspring that survive to adulthood in captivity. All one needs to do is introduce a small group of any of these creatures and they tend to reproduce to a level that controls the particular type of algae they prefer to consume. While algae blennies are interesting and somewhat comical in their behavior, they are also problematic. Only about half of the time will they eat any prepared foods. Instead, they prefer to survive solely on what they can get from rasping the substrate in the display. As such, they tend to do poorly in smaller aquaria (anything under 90 gallons). I am going to attempt to make a distinction, which may seem like a shade of gray argument to some, but I believe there is an important difference. I do not, nor do I encourage others, to employ these animals to help with a nuisance algae outbreak. They won’t help you do that. But, I believe they are a nice compliment to overall good husbandry in maintaining a beautiful display. To say it another way, they will help the aquarist keep a tank clean, but they won’t clean it for you. There are a few others that I utilize in my own aquariums. I find Sea Urchins interesting, so I stock them in both my own tank and those of some of my maintenance customers. In my mind, a pair of Bangghai cardinalfish hanging around a commensal long-spine Diadema urchin is on par with Clownfishes and their host anemones. But, I really keep them more for their interesting interactions than for any cleaning duties they perform. That is a distant secondary benefit as far as I am concerned. I also must admit that I added Nassarius Snails to my tank. I keep a lot of sand dwelling cnidarians that I target feed quite a bit. Fungia, Trachyphyllia, Cycloseris, Heliofungia, Alveopora, Catallaphyllia, and a green Carpet Anemone are all part of my collection. The Nassarius snails permit me to be a little sloppy in my feedings, but again, I am not employing them to take care of a nuisance algae problem. I am using them to help me keep things clean along with the sound husbandry practices that I learned long ago. Feel free to use them as well as part of a larger maintenance program. As for other biological controls, I am generally not a big fan. Pest anemones such as Aiptasia and the so-called Anemonia 'majanos' are better dealt with in my opinion and experience via chemical means such as kalkwasser pastes and Joe’s Juice, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm. And, fish parasites are best dealt with using strict quarantine protocols and proven means of treatment: - Quarantine - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.htm - Marine Ich part 1 - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.htm - Marine Ich part 2 - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-10/sp/feature/index.htm - Marine Velvet - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/sp/feature/index.htm When flatworms get this bad in a tank, a thorough review of the husbandry practices and equipment is in order. Pay careful attention to the flow rates of the pumps, feeding amounts and schedule, as well as nutrient export processes. As for dealing with flatworms, I have to say, I just don't get it. I don't understand why people flip out and pour poisons into their reef aquariums in an effort to deal with such a mild nuisance. The common rust-brown flatworms are not parasitic. They don't do any direct damage to corals or fish. At worst, they are simply unattractive when their population blooms to plague-like proportions. But, they are dealt with easily enough by less drastic means. Manual removal via siphoning and water changes helps tremendously as does making sure the system has sufficient circulation. The aquarist should notice that the flatworms tend to congregate in areas of weak flow. Ensuring that the total flow rate is appropriate as well as making sure the circulation is applied properly creating random, turbulent patterns throughout the display is necessary. Also, check that the maintenance is up to date on all the pumps. I notice the number of flatworms in my own display increases when it is time to clean out the intake screens on the return pumps and give the impellors a vinegar soak to remove deposits. And once this is done, their numbers quickly drop to unnoticeable levels. That makes this yet another instance of a supposed nuisance organism that is easily and best dealt with via normal good aquarium husbandry. No need for additional fishes for biological control or noxious substances added. Just good old simple cleaning practices and your troubles should disappear. Some people wrongly try to employ the beautiful yet challenging Mandarin fish to aid them in controlling plague-like populations of flatworms when there are far simpler and more effective means. Steven Pro Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

Featured Member - Tank Gallery By: Reefland Members

Featured Member Tank Gallery - Reefland Members We have decided this month to feature a different kind of tank at Reefland.com. This month, we feature many members by providing a 20 image gallery of The Best of the Best images. These images were hand selected by our very own photographic guru, Mike LaPorte. We hope you'll enjoy this relaxing look at some of the most beautiful reef pictures there are. A beautiful Acrpora sp. coral in the reef tank of Kevin Pockell. Gallery Link Here's looking at you kid! The Zebrasoma flavescens is a popular among hobbyist. Photo by Gene Schwartz. Gallery Link Colorful button polyps have gained in popularity in the recent years. An up close and personal view on zoo's is provided by TStaut. Gallery Link A beautifully kept aquarium by ldrhawke. Gallery Link An incredibally patterned T. maxima in the reef aquarium oh Mihn Nguyen. Gallery Link A 210 gallon mixed reef tank from a side view. Photo by Bald Eagle. Gallery Link This is your brain. This is your brain on salt... Photo by Poseidon. Gallery Link Reflections. Photo by Gene Schwartz Gallery Link Who wouldn't want to get stranded on Ricordea Island. Photo by klasikb Gallery Link The grass is always greener on the other side... of the glass. Photo by bguile Gallery Link Come out, come out where ever you are! Photo by sandbaby. Gallery Link Just "clowning around" on Sunday. Photo by CanadianBacon. Gallery Link The Tubastraea faulkneri says "Feed Me!" Photo by Gene Schwartz. Gallery Link T. maxima Teardrop close up. Photo by Scott Zachow. Gallery Link A well balanced mixed reef in the care of charlie. Gallery Link Getting some R & R in the comfort of my own home. Photo by Gene Schwartz. Gallery Link Lets see those pearly whites! :D Photo by Gene Schwartz. Gallery Link When will we go back to the moon? Photo by dougc. Gallery Link Look at all the pretty colors! Photo by Mark Middleton. Gallery Link Clam Heaven. Photo by klasikb. Gallery Link Want some candy? Photo by Penguin. Gallery Link Back to Current Edition Table of Contents View Printable Version

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