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Table of Contents:

November 2005 Edition




Introduction: Introduction to November 2005 RHO
By: Scott Zachow & Gene Schwartz



Cover Photo: Anthias Species
By: Kevin Pockell



Nuisance Algae In The Reef Aquarium - Part II
By: Scott Zachow



Reef Currents: Reef Stability, A Moving Target
By: Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D.



Reeflections: ldrhawke
By: John Laurenson


November 2005 Edition Introduction
By: Scott Zachow & Gene Schwartz

Welcome to the November 2005 Edition of Reef Hobbyist Online - Celebrating 1 Year of Reading!



Can you believe it? Reef Hobbyist Online is 1 year old. Over the past year, we have worked very hard to bring you not only interesting and educational reading material; we also tried to bring you unique perspectives on marine aquarium keeping. We think we have accomplished that goal! However none of this could be done without our contributors. We would like to thank Anthony Calfo, Steven Pro, Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D., and Kevin Pockell for educating us over the past year! We would also like to thank each one of our Featured Members for giving us an up close and personal look at the inside of their beautiful marine aquariums. It is this that continually inspires us all to match the beauty of the world's reefs. Thanks to each of you for your contributions and support!

In the next year we will not only continue this path, but will expand it for our readers! In November 2005, we are very pleased to present you with a new feature at RHO, Reef Currents.


Reef Currents is a brand new column that will be in every new edition of RHO brought to us by Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D. In the first edition of this new column, Dr. Ron starts us out on this educational roller coaster with "Reef Stability, A Moving Target". Stability in the marine environment is an interesting topic, but do we go too far? Is it more stressful on the tank keeper striving for these perfect conditions than some fluctuations are for the inhabitants? We hope that you'll enjoy the column in this edition and all future editions of Reef Hobbyist Online.

Our cover photo this month is of the beautiful yet delicate Anthias. We are happy to bring to you another cover photo article by Kevin Pockell (known as kevinpo on the boards), where he details the captive care requirements of his favorite fish. The Anthias are some of the most colorful fish available so it's no surprise they are highly sought after by hobbyist. If you are interested in keeping, or currently keeping Anthias in your tank be sure to read Kevin's experiences with this prized fish.

This edition also brings you a continuation of "Nuisance Algae In The Reef Aquarium". This series is a documentation of experiencing nuisance algae and how to overcome the problem. In the first part we talked about some specific algae encountered in the author's personal aquarium and some potential causes. In Part II of this series, analysis of the problem and steps that have been taken to reduce the nuisance is documented and explained. Since most all aquarist will experience problems at one time or another, this series is a required read for not only new but experienced hobbyist as well. The purpose is two-fold, to detail the steps taken to eliminate the root cause but more importantly, to help hobbyist plan and act to ensure it doesn't become a problem for them.


We've already packed in a lot of great things in this edition but we're not done yet. Starting now, we are pleased to bring a different approach to our previous Featured Member series with a new twist we call Reeflections. In this column we will bring to you the most beautiful aquariums and most dedicated hobbyist from around the world to highlight their techniques and to detail their aquariums. In the first edition of this column, John Laurenson, also known as ldrhawke, details some of the unique techniques he employs in his cylindrical aquarium.

For anyone who doesn't have the time to sit in front of their computer to read each edition of RHO, we are pleased to provide a Printable Version. Look for the Printable Version link at the bottom of each page of RHO.

We hope that you'll enjoy the seventh, our 1 year anniversary edition of Reef Hobbyist Online and hope to see you around as we release new editions of RHO bi-monthly for many years to come!
The Staff of Reefland.com

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Anthias Species
By: Kevin Pockell

Anthias Species
By: Kevin Pockell




These fish are one of my personal favorites. They range by species from hardy and aggressive to timid and delicate. Most of the species are difficult to get feeding and require at least a 75-gallon tank. They can be kept singularly but do best in small groups of one male to 4-5 females. The exception is the Serranocirrhitus latus (Sunburst, Fathead, Hawkfish,) Anthias. Only one of these per aquarium unless it is a very large tank (300 gal+), but it can be housed with other species of Anthias as long as it is added first. Anthias are not easy to keep but their beautiful coloration and active behavior are well worth the effort.




Selection
I would strongly recommend asking to see the fish eat before purchase. This will make the job of acclimation much easier. Anthias will hide in the rockwork when first introduced into their new home unless other established Anthias are present. This can make it difficult to get a good look at your perspective purchase. Anthias are active fish with a high metabolism so they often arrive quite thin. Be sure to look for a full-bodied fish that has clear eyes and fins. Most species of Anthias need to be housed with peaceful tank mates and require excellent water quality at 76-82F. They must be provided with plenty of places in the rockwork to hide and sleep in.




Feeding
Anthias are zooplankton feeders in the wild and require meaty foods. Mysis shrimp, raw white shrimp, and enriched brine shrimp are good foods to get them feeding. Once one or two of them start feeding it quickly triggers the others to begin feeding also. This is the main reason why Anthias do better in a group. For the first three months (or until they look full bodied) they should be fed at least 3 times a day. Then twice a day should be enough. Anthias have small mouths so the food must be small. Once they become established they will eat meaty frozen foods such as cube types and Freeze-dried plankton. Most Anthias must have a varied diet to maintain their bright coloration so be sure to feed them a combination of meaty foods.


Not to be replicated in the home aquarium but a beautiful array of colors shown here with Surgeonfish, Anthias and others.

Combatibility
Anthias are very reef safe and get along well with almost all other reef safe fish. They are “dither fish” which are fish that both smaller and larger fish use as a warning system that either the coast is clear or danger is near. In the wild many of the Anthias species mix together in shoals numbering in the thousands where the males of the species will maintain a harem of 6-8 females. Some of the species are too aggressive to mix with other Anthias unless you have a very large tank so be sure to research carefully before purchase. Anthias are very difficult to catch as they are expert swimmers and can hide in the smallest crevice in the rockwork.




Conclusion
Anthias can be a great addition but they require special attention to diet, water quality, and space requirements. They are not for the beginning hobbyist but they are one of the most brightly colored fish available. They make a stunning display as they swim over and through the reef.




Regards,
Kevin Pockell


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Nuisance Algae in the Reef Aquarium - Part II
By: Scott Zachow

Nuisance Algae in the Reef Aquarium - Part II
By: Scott Zachow


In Part I of this series I began by talking about some of the fuels that feed nuisance algae and described the nuisance algae that is present in our 75-gallon reef tank. The problems started in early spring of 2005 with the development of the unidentified brown wafer-like algae. The algae weren’t undesirable; in fact the growth form was quite nice to contrast the purple coralline algae that was growing abundantly in the aquarium. The mistake that I made was assuming that despite the algae growth, all of the tanks water parameters were fine and a biological balance was still in place. All algae require nutrients to grow and if there is an undesirable algae growing in your tank, it is because excessive nutrients are available for absorption. If I would have remembered this myself we wouldn’t be talking about this today, so maybe it’s a good thing that my memory slipped me in order to provide me the opportunity to help ensure yours doesn’t.

The first place for us to start was to look for Nitrates (NO3) in the tank. A test was performed on 9-17-2005 for NO3 in the aquarium and the results using a Salifert Test kit following the low range procedure resulted in 0ppm. This isn’t surprising though as the nuisance algae is most likely taking all of the nutrients in for growth. A common misconception is that a test result of 0ppm total Nitrate means that there are no nitrates present and the algae are growing for other reasons. With abundant algae to consume the nutrient as fast as it is available, the test results appear fine although the Nitrate is undoubtedly available. Determining whether it is building in the aquarium and not being exported or if it is being added unknowingly to the aquarium must be determined.


An image of the aquarium taken on 9-17-2005. Note the overgrowth of nuisance algae throughout the aquarium.

We began analyzing our problem with the source water. We started here to ensure the source water (water used for water changes and top-off) wasn’t the cause of our problem. To start, a Nitrate test was performed on the top off water. All water for our aquarium is run from our tap through an AquaFX 4-stage RO/DI unit. The 4-stage unit contains a .5 Micron Sediment Cartridge, Chlorine Guzzler Carbon Cartridge, Color Changing DI Cartridge and a 75-gallon per day RO Membrane. After producing a fresh 5 gallons of water, the NO3 tested 0ppm using the same testing procedures as above. Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) was also tested in the freshwater ran through the RO/DI unit. TDS is a measure of anything in water, whether it is calcium, magnesium or any other solid present. If you were to fill a cup of water and let it evaporate, any solid left after complete evaporation is what we are measuring for. Using a hand-held TDS meter, or other, you can perform the same test with freshly made water to determine the amount of solids present. Obviously the lower the TDS reading the better off you are since we want to add only pure water to our tanks. To continue to test the fresh top-off water, a TDS test was performed on both our tap water and the filtered water. I was surprised at the TDS of our tap water, measuring 247ppm. The filtered water wasn’t too bad with a TDS of 10ppm. I wouldn’t suspect that a TDS of 10ppm would be a problem in the tank and therefore will not act on the make-up water at this time. If no other sources are found we may have to move back and re-evaluate this decision.


Another image of the aquarium showing the various overgrowth of algae.

Since we can assume at this point that the source of the nutrients feeding the algae in our tank isn’t coming from the source water, there has to be some other source of nutrients. However top off water is not the only addition made to the tank. We continue to look at the possibility of NO3 being added into the aquarium so we shift our focus other miscellaneous additions. We do not use any additives with our tank. The only thing that is added to our aquarium other than source water is food. We use a variety of flakes from Ocean Nutrition but add them sparingly. The main source of food is from 1 cube of Hikari Frozen Brine Shrimp and one cube of Hikari Frozen Mysis Shrimp. The food was considered a possibility due to previous studies that have been performed on their actual ingredients (Shimek, 2002) and also because it is noted that the liquid from frozen foods can be a significant source of nutrients, as well as uneaten food in general. Up to this point we were very mindful about how much food was added to the aquarium with only small pinches of flake and the 2 cubes per day provided. To feed the cubes we allowed them to thaw in a cup of water and once thawed, dumped the contents of the cup into the tank. Since mid August, 2005 we changed our procedure to eliminate the thawed, nutrient rich water from being added. Our new method of feeding the frozen food is to allow it to thaw and then strain the food through a fine net (fish net works great). Once the thawed shrimp is in the net we place it into the tank and turn it inside out in front of a current source, which blows the food throughout the aquarium. This was an easy fix and although the outcome of this change cannot be measured, we do know that we have reduced the amount of nutrients being added to the tank.


Taken on 10-6-05 this image shows the progress that is being made in the reduction of the nuisance algae through various techniques.

As mentioned above we do not add any supplements into the aquarium. For Calcium and Alkalinity we use a My Reef Creations Dual Chamber Calcium Reactor filled with Knop Korallith 1.8-2.5mm media. Although others have mentioned that the reactor is probably not any part of the problem, I am unsure. What leads me to this uncertainty is that the pH is our tank is significantly lowered when running the reactor (as suspected). The low pH is obviously from the CO2 and probably from the NO3 as well (since increased NO3 will depress pH). The second thing that concerns me about the reactor is that the effluent line has a nice coating of green algae inside which is not present in the hoses from the pump to the 1st chamber, or in the hose from the 1st chamber to the 2nd chamber. The feed hose for the reactor, which is connected to a Maxi-Jet 1200 does not have this discoloration either. To see if there was any Nitrate present in the reactor, a cup was filled with the reactor effluent and tested using the same procedures for testing the tank water and freshwater used for top-off. As with the rest of the test, this water test also resulted 0ppm. Something was different with this though. I noticed when the cup was filled with the reactor effluent that the water had a foul smell. I also noticed this when opening the Salifert vial to complete the test by comparing the water to the chart by looking through the top. Perhaps the water is stagnant in the reactor? Perhaps the stagnant water contains nutrients other than NO3 that is fueling the algae? In order to try to flush this water out, I took 2 steps. On 9-17-2005 the CO2 feeding the calcium reactor was shut off. This was done to see if the pH would rise and have any change in the growth of the algae. I also opened up the effluent from the reactor slowly. I did this slowly in order to not drop the pH significantly by flushing out low pH water from the reactor. The hope here was that flushing out the reactor (and eliminating the foul smell) would if nothing else help ease my mind. The reactor was basically shut off for 8 days and during this time there was no change in the pH, which tells me that the pH is suppressed due to the excessive Nitrate that is somewhere. On 9-25-2005 the reactor was placed online only after noting the foul smell originally encountered from the effluent was gone. I also hoped that placing the reactor back online would increase the Alkalinity and offset any negative effects that the low pH might cause; particularly coral growth since it reduces corals ability to calcify.

With all of the external sources looked at, it was time to look at the internal causes and see what could be done to address them. This tank employs a Bare Bottom, which is one without any substrate. The purpose of changing to a bare-bottom tank was to allow us to increase the amount of flow in the tank for the SPS corals that we keep. This also adds problems since without any form of substrate there has to be a mechanical source to remove excessive waste before it is converted to NO3. This can either be by keeping the detritus in suspension for removal or through manual siphoning. Since we have had out aquarium setup in this manner, bi-weekly 5-gallon water changes were performed during which time we siphoned the detritus. Even though we have over 3,700gph flowing through the tank it is not enough to keep all the detritus in suspension. During the two weeks between the water changes piles still accumulated and had to be removed. To counter this, we increased the frequency and amount of water changed. Since we do not use any natural forms of nutrient export (refugium with macroalgae that is manually removed for example) it was determined that the frequency of our only main export mechanism needed to be increased. We are now performing between 10-15 gallons of water every week, 5-gallons 2-3 times per weekend. This is an increase from 13% per month to nearly 67% per month of our water being changed. During each of these changes the accumulated detritus is also removed from the aquarium.


Another image showing the reduction in nuisance algae.

In addition to water changes, our secondary source of nutrient export is through Protein Skimming. We utilize a My Reef Creations MR-1 skimmer powered by a MAG 18 pump. As with our water changes, we also increased skimmer production and the frequency of maintenance. In order to keep a skimmer efficiently skimming, the skimmer should be cleaned often. This was typically done bi-weekly and is now also being performed weekly with our water changes. The type of product from the skimmer has also changed from a cup full of dark dry product every week to a lighter colored and wetter product every few days. In order to keep the skimmate production we are looking for the skimmer is adjusted daily or every two days to ensure optimal production. The goal is to reduce the amount of Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOC’s) before they have a chance to contribute to Nitrate. Since water changes and protein skimming is our only methods of nutrient export, at the moment, we felt like we needed to maximize the export capacity of these two forms to reduce the available nutrients and to starve out the algae.


Another image showing that through persistance nuisance algae can be controlled.

Through all of this, I am pleased to report that we are already seeing a reduction in the nuisance algae in the aquarium and are seeing an overall improvement in the health of our animals. There is still a significant amount of progress that needs to be made. An abundance of the various nuisance algae remains in the aquarium. Through all of our efforts to date the most significant decrease as been in the Valonia sp. algae. This is reverse from what I thought since I was expecting this to require aggressive manual removal. Secondly are the Derbresia and lastly the Bryopsis, which seems to be the only one that is still steadily growing. I am confident that we are on the right path though as has been proven through the reduction. Addressing the accumulation of nutrients that build up in the tank appears to be the way for us to beat this problem. However it was important for us (and you) to go through the steps to find the real cause of the problem and correct it. Next month we will provide you with an update of our progress. Until then...

Reef On!
Scott Zachow


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Reef Stability, A Moving Target
By: Ronald L. Shimek Ph.D.



Garbage In... Garbage Out...

One of the more constant concerns of many reef aquarists is keeping their reef “stable.” To this end, large amounts of money and many hours of effort are often spent on all sorts of gadgetry, paraphernalia, and activities all designed or used to keep the aquarium conditions stable. This is done because coral reefs have been described as being in some sort of condition of stability and this statement has entered into both the lexicon of reef aquarists and into their references. This is really, really, unfortunate. The quest for reef stability, much like the quest for the Cup of Christ, is doomed to fail; there is no DaVinci’s Code for the secret of how to succeed. Not the least of the reasons for the inevitable failure in the reef aquarists holy quest is a misunderstanding of the, always undefined, buzzword “stability” in the context of coral reefs. When I was a mere lad, and taking Geometry in high school, we had to do mathematical proofs. For each step in the process, we were supposed to list the mathematical law or postulate that allow that particular step. To save the effort of writing out the same phrase or law repeatedly, our instructor allowed us to abbreviate the phrase with an acronym. It was all very tidy. Not surprisingly, however, occasionally we students, brilliant and excellent though we were, found the appropriate law “missing in action.” My geometry instructor, one Mr. Ludvik Jun, was a man of very finite patience. When the students in his class began sporadically using the acronym MJVC, as a representation of a mathematical law to support a step in their proofs, it didn’t take him long to discover that MJVC meant “Mr. Jun’s Variable Constant.” In other words, it was a “fudge factor” term. It meant precisely whatever we thought it meant at the moment. Mr. Jun was NOT amused! To the point of this essay, however, “stability” is an ecological “variable constant.” It has so many meanings and shades of meanings that unless it is precisely defined in the context of the moment, it is a useless “garbage” term. It is NEVER precisely defined in the reef aquarium literature.

One of the earliest descriptions of coral reefs as having some sort of stability relationship was that of the Odums in their 1955 paper and reiterated by Grassle, in 1973,

“…Coral reef communities are stable ecosystems that have existed in a state of near-equilibrium for millions of years, arising largely as a result of long term and diverse competitive evolutionary adjustments under benign environmental conditions…”

This statement implies that corals are evolutionarily stable, and live under benign or favorable environmental conditions. Please note, that interestingly enough, this statement, although calling the environmental conditions benign, doesn’t say anything about how variable they are.

The concept that coral reefs are evolutionarily stable and live in a environmentally “friendly” environment has slowly morphed over the years into a concept that coral reefs live in an environmentally stable environment without much variation in salinity, temperature, light or any of the other myriad of factors that may be measured. This concept pervades the reef aquarium “literature,” (and I use the word, “literature,” very loosely). As result of this saturation of the literature with ideas of stability and their presumed (but also, interestingly enough, never proven) importance, I think that concerns over all sorts of environmental stability are probably the biggest worries that most reef aquarists are likely to have. And it may be a justified worry, IF the environmental conditions are, indeed, stable. After all, one of the obvious dictums of animal husbandry is that you should maintain animals under the conditions where they do best, and this is, generally, the center of, or the middle point, of the range of conditions in the geographical center of the species range.

IN OTHER WORDS, ORGANISMS DO THEIR BEST WHEN LIVING UNDER THE AVERAGE CONDITIONS OF THE AREA THAT THEY EVOLVED IN.

If those areas have little variation, then the organisms from those areas are generally tolerant of little variation. It should be a relatively simple matter to go to the scientific, oceanographic or climatological, literature and determine what the conditions are on a reef.


Figure 1. A portion of the atoll of the Belau archipelago. The lagoon is to the upper left. The shallow nature of the lagoon indicated by the whitish sand visible under only a few feet of water. The temperature fluctuation in such an environment is quite great.

Average Reef Temperatures

In 1999, Kleypas, and her coworkers, published data on coral reef temperatures (Table 1) (Kleypas, et al, 1999). They examined and summarized published data taken from separate measurements on over 1000 different coral reefs. It is worth remembering that these data were gathered prior to the recent increase in temperatures attributable to global warming and probably reflect more-or-less “normal” conditions for the last couple of centuries. In Table 1, the data in the average column are probably the most pertinent. The average temperature calculated for all 1000+ coral reefs was 81.7°F. Over all reefs, the average annual lowest temperature observed was 76.4°F, and the average annual highest temperature was 86.4°F. Probably the best way that these data could be interpreted would be to say that for most corals and coral reef animals, the best conditions would be between 76°F and 86°F, with the average being about 82°F, and fluctuations of as much as about 5.0°F on either side of that average being acceptable. As I hope to show, in this and my next couple of columns, such variations are not only acceptable for normal and natural coral growth, they are NECESSARY for it.

Table 1. Coral Reef Temperatures From Kleypas, et al., 1990. All Converted to Degrees Fahrenheit.
 MinimumAverageMaximum
Averages69.881.785.1
Minimums60.876.482.8
Maximums76.286.493.9

Temperature Variations

An area's average annual temperature does not tell the whole story, of course, as there are always fluctuations around this average. Such fluctuations may vary in magnitude from month-to-month as illustrated in some data from Belize (Table 2). As you read this, it is worth noting that some of the richest coral reefs in the Caribbean have been historically found near Belize, and in these areas average monthly temperatures are generally above 84.1°F (29°C), and the monthly maximum temperature may reach 91.4°F (33°C) (Highsmith, 1979 a, b). These are temperatures slightly cooler than the Indo-Pacific areas of highest coral diversity, but the Belize area is significantly further north. Generally, higher latitude reefs, those further from the equator, have greater temperature extremes than do lower latitudinal, or more equatorially placed, ones.

Table 2. Surface Water Temperatures for Belize City, Belize, 1964-1971. Data from Highsmith, 1979a.
 AveragesAverages
Month°F°C°F°C
January79.226.284.229.0
February80.226.884.229.0
March82.428.089.632.0
April84.929.491.433.0
May86.730.491.433.0
June86.230.191.433.0
July85.629.889.632.0
August87.130.689.632.0
September86.230.191.433.0
October84.929.489.632.0
November81.327.487.831.0
December79.926.684.229.0

The variation within a single month, at even low latitude reefs can be significantly greater than most aquarists realize. Pulau Pari is an island in Indonesia (5°26'-5°37'S, 106°24'-106°37'E); the variation in the temperature of the shallow reef water in January, 1995 varied over 5.7°C (11.3°F), and the daily extremes were almost as great as the monthly extremes (Figure 2). This island is in a region noted for its coral diversity and these temperatures are typical.


Figure 2. Hourly sea surface temperatures taken 0.5 m below the lowest low water on a shallow coral reef in Pulau Pari, Indonesia, for January 1995 (modified from Fig. 4.3 in Wood, 1999). The red line indicates the maximum temperature, the blue line indicates the minimum temperature, and the pink bar indicates the zone of the average temperature, all values on the left ordinate. For comparison, the values in blue, on the right ordinate, are taken from shallow waters off the Washington coast in the Northeastern Pacific for the same period (values from this NOAA website), the blue band indicates the range of variation seen in that region. Note the range of variation between the highest and the lowest temperature is far greater over the coral reef area than in the offshore area of the Northeastern Pacific. All temperatures in degrees Celsius.

It would be theoretically possible to add data from effectively every coral reef to this short series of examples, but space doesn’t permit it and, in any case, it would be a fruitless exercise in duplication. Coral reef temperatures are variable on tidal, diurnal, weekly, monthly, seasonally, annually, and multiannular time scales and the scope of variation is quite large (Figure 3). Generally, variations of 1.5 ºC to 4.5 ºC (2.7 ºF to 8.1 ºF) are common in equatorial areas, and one-day extremes such as a tidal pool on the Great Barrier Reef of 25.3 ºC to 34.9 ºC (77.5 ºF to 94.8 ºF) are not uncommon (Wood, 1999). Long-term fluctuations in the monthly average sea surface temperature at equatorial localities often fluctuate over a 3ºC to 5 ºC (5.4ºF to 9ºF) range (See Figure 3). When the data for the monthly average fluctuates this much it should be understood that the values for the daily extreme temperatures fluctuate over a much high range. It is worth remembering, that as far as oceanographers and climatologists are concerned, the “sea surface” implied in the measurement of Sea Surface Temperatures (SST) extends to a depth of about 50 m (165 feet) throughout most of the tropics.

Stability With A Grain of Salt

Aquarists often also consider salinity in reef areas as being “fixed” and invariate. This is also an error. Salinity in shallow waters, down to at least 20 m, and sometimes far deeper, can and will fluctuate a lot. Most of these fluctuations are caused by the interplay of oceanic temperature, salinity, rainfall, and evaporation.

AS WITH THE TEMPERATURE, THE SALINITY OF THE TROPICAL SHALLOW MARINE WATERS IS BY NO MEANS INVARIABLE OR STABLE.

The first factor that needs to be considered is the temperature. Seawater tends to stratify by density, and tropical shallow waters are warmer and, therefore, less dense than the cooler waters under them. The shallow waters float on cooler, denser deep water and they don’t mix with them. The boundary between these water masses is often very sharp. Crossing the boundary will result in a temperature change of several degrees Celsius. Density, salinity, and other factors may also change at the boundary. In any case, this boundary effectively isolates warm tropical shallow waters from the much larger mass of cool water underneath it. Tropical warm waters are seldom more than about 300 m in thickness.

The relative thinness of the tropical warm layer means that it can be subjected to significant changes due to the input of fresh water. This fresh water enters the system either from rainfall or terrestrial run off, and the relative magnitude of each of these factors will vary from locality to locality. The amount of rainfall, even on isolated tropical islands may be a quite large, and quite variable. The monthly average daily rainfall amounts may vary by as much as 20 mm per day. For example, at Tarawa in 1984 through 1985, the average daily rainfall was less than 3 mm per day. In 1987, at the same site, the monthly rainfall averages were never less than 5 mm per day, and as high as 20 mm (0.8 in) per day (Figure 3). Rainfall of this amount can cause significant variation in the salinity of the reef areas.

Outer reefs are generally bathed by oceanic waters, and these are often mixed well and rapidly due to the influence of winds. Consequently, changes in salinity on the outer reefs tend to be transitory, ranging from a few hours to a few days. That isn’t the case in lagoonal areas. Lagoons are often relatively enclosed, and this low frequency of water changing tends to mean that any changes are of long duration. During periods of high rainfall, lagoonal salinities may drop significantly; often to values as low as 30 psu. Because of the relative inefficiency of water movement into and out of lagoons, the salinity may remain low for extended periods; several days to several weeks. Such fluctuation in salinities, and the resultant plankton blooms that may develop if they have been accompanied by nutrient-rich terrestrial runoff, have been hypothesized as one of the causative reasons for the out breaks to of the coral-eating sea star, Acanthaster planci (Birkeland, 1982).

The changes in lagoonal salinities are not all one way. Because lagoons are shallow, and relatively isolated from the surrounding ocean, they also tend to change salinity due to evaporation. If there is little rain, and a lot of evaporation, the salinity may rise. The salinity in some hypersaline lagoons has been measured as high as 42 psu. Needless to say, the variability of lagoonal salinities is a major determining factor in the flora and fauna found in them. Those animals, algae, and plants that can’t tolerate the changes in the salinity will not be found in the lagoons. The flipside of this, though, for aquarists, means that any lagoonal animals in their tanks are likely to be quite tolerant of salinity variations.


Figure 3. Long-term variation in SST (Sea Surface Temperature) and rainfall at some equatorial coral reefs (Modified from Fairbanks, 1997). Note: A SST reading of 27ºC = 80.6ºF. Note, as well, the rainfall is given in 30 day averages, but represents rainfall in mm/day, thus a value of 12.7 mm, means an average of one half inch of rain per day for a month. The regular periodicity of rainfall variation from Sulawesi was due to the annual monsoonal rain pattern.

Rainfall variations of the magnitude shown in Figure 3 will cause significant variations in the sea surface salinities, and such variations are common throughout the coral reef regions of the world. Depending upon the prevailing winds, the land near coral reef areas is often and naturally covered with tropical rain forest, and it should not be surprising that it rains on many reefs, as well.

During periods of little or no rainfall, the seawater in these equatorial regions is generally around 36 psu, but can fluctuate depending on the amounts of terrestrial runoff or deep-water upwelling. When the rains are heavy, the shallow water salinity, down to a depth of 30m (100 feet) or more can be as low as 32 ppt for extended periods. Conversely, during dry periods, there may be significant evaporation within coral lagoons. In these areas the salinity may routinely rise above 37 psu.

In her study of reef temperatures and salinities, Kleypas and her colleagues (1999), found some reefs that had extremely high or low values of temperature or salinity. The values for the Red Sea were particularly high, in terms of both temperature and salinity. The salinity ranged upwards of 38 psu at the southern end, to about 41 psu at the northern end. The average temperature ranged from 88º F to 91.2º F. (31.1º C to 32.8º C). Such temperatures and salinities are at values higher than most aquarists would dare keep their tanks. Nonetheless, those values are the natural ones for the animals of that region.

Stormy Relations


Figure 4. A storm over Chuuk Lagoon. This was just a mild afternoon storm. It altered the next day’s salinity a tad, but by the afternoon of the next the salinity was back to normal.

I would bet real money that for most aquarists, the standard mental image of a coral reef is one of calm seas and blue skies, perhaps with a gentle breeze. Toss in a palm tree on the beach and a Planter’s Punch in one’s hand, some steel guitar music in the background, scantily-clad members of the opposite gender, and the image is one of a version of paradise. Well, yes… but, now, fast forward to when the hurricane hits. Virtually all coral reefs are in parts of the world subject to violent cyclonic storms; these are called hurricanes, typhoons, or cyclones, depending upon where they occur. As we all know, the effects of such storms may be catastrophic and terribly destructive. Nonetheless, they are a periodic and, generally, relatively frequent if unpredictable component of the climate of most coral reef communities. The awesome power of such storms can cause much destruction of reefs, moving large blocks of rock around and simply flushing a lot of animals out to sea. On the other hand, many corals, most especially the acroporids, reproduce mostly by fragmentation and the presence of such storms is a necessary prerequisite for the success and persistence of such species. While we may perceive the advent of a hurricane on the reef as a disaster, such an event may be also interpreted as “Mama Nature’s Frag Fest.” Generally, within a year or two of the awesome destruction of a hurricane, the reef will look fine. Rearranged, perhaps refreshed, but neither abnormal, nor destroyed. As part of the natural environment, these storms have to be tolerated by the organisms in the area. If they weren’t, the organisms would be extinct.

Short-Term Stability Of The Reef Environment; A Contradiction In Terms

I hope this brief examination of temperature and salinity has convinced the reader that the coral reef environment is neither especially stable nor benign. The variability seen on a coral reef is often greater than seen in many temperate marine environments. Additionally, the periodic effects of cyclonic storms might be said to emphasize the variability of these environments with a punctuation point that is hard to ignore. Simply put, coral reefs are environmentally stressful and hazardous environments. The concept that these environments are benign has met a slow death as data on the true conditions of the reef have been accumulating over the last five decades. The quote by the Odums at the beginning of this article was made early in the study of coral reefs, and it was conjecture and assumption, NOT fact. Much has been learned since these early pioneering studies. One of the things that has been learned over those decades is that physically stable environments do exist in the seas. However, they are the environments of the deep seas, not the environments of the coral reefs.

Are Reefs “Evolutionarily Stable?”

The fossil record of reefs is immense, and the story of reef evolution is now pretty well known. It is, however, not a straight forward progression from primitive ancient reefs to the modern “complex” reefs. Reefs as biogenic structures are truly ancient; however, the ancient reefs were algal reefs and were dominated by animals very different from those found on modern reefs (Fagerstrom, 1987; Wood, 1999). The story of reefs is a story of change. Corals are minor or insignificant components of reefs until the middle to late Mesozoic Era. Modern stony corals, scleractinians, and dinoflagellates first appear in the fossil record in the early Mesozoic somewhere between 150 and 200 million years ago. Scleractinians diversify in the middle to later Mesozoic, possibly as a result of a symbiosis with dinoflagellates (zooxanthellae), although there is no clear fossil evidence of the symbiotic relationship. The scleractinians were a diverse assemblage at the end of the Cretaceous period, the last portion of the Mesozoic Era, but most of them went extinct at the end of that geological period. The asteroid impact that took out the dinosaurs did a nasty number on the corals as well (Fagerstrom, 1987; Wood, 1999).

After a period of several million years where there were no reefs, scleractinian corals diversify again about 40 to 50 million years ago. For the first time, scleractinians come to dominate reefs. However, the corals that were found during this period were large massive corals, similar to and including species of Porites. Although branching corals such as Acropora first appeared during this period of diversification, they were rare and remained uncommon. Many modern stony corals, especially acroporids, are generally representatives of evolutionarily very new groups, and are probably less than a couple of million years old (Wood, 1999).

Modern coral reefs are not ancient, but recent phenomena.
“Due to this faunal turnover, late Miocene and Pliocene communities are entirely distinct from early Pleistocene and recent Caribbean reef communities. Although acroporids also appeared in the Eocene, they did not become dominant on reefs until the early Pleistocene (1.8 million years ago). …With this unexplained rise to dominance of branching acroporids in the early Pleistocene, and a corresponding decline in massive, domal corals, coral reef communities with a modern aspect appeared,” (Wood, R. 1999; emphasis and age in years, added).

In point of fact, coral reefs are not evolutionarily stable, but highly dynamic and changeable assemblages.
“…the history of (reef) communities is not simply a quiet and gradual proliferation of lineages… (it) involves dramatic and disconnected episodes, repeated radiations, stagnation, replacement of dominant groups…selective extinction and even worldwide obliteration of entire communities leaving ecological vacuums…” (Newell, 1971).

“Contrary to the previous consensus that emphasized the stability of physical variables at tropical latitudes, the modern, shallow, tropical marine environment is in fact characterized by considerable fluctuations in physical conditions on a daily, seasonal, and annual, and interannual basis….These data have radically altered the view that coral reef communities are stable ecosystems that have existed in a state of near-equilibrium for millions of years, arising largely as a result of long term and diverse competitive evolutionary adjustments under benign environmental conditions (Odum and Odum, 1955; Grassle, 1973). Reefs are clearly not in equilibrium, but present highly dynamic communities that are constantly responding to both constant disturbance, and also to wholly unpredictable catastrophic events.” (Wood, 1999; emphasis added).

In other words, modern coral reefs are not “stable” communities that are the result of long periods of “evolutionary accommodation.” They are highly dynamic and fluctuating associations of organisms containing a mishmash of species in a “free-for-all” fight for existence.

Additionally, coral reefs are in extremely variable environments – on ANY scale you want to measure.
“Shallow water tropical coral reefs occupy changing and often extreme environments…” (Wood, 1999).

“Indeed the constant disturbance and heterogeneity of the coral reef habitat appear to be necessary for the functioning of a healthy coral reef,” (Brown, 1997).

Aquarium Consequences Of These Changes Of Opinion

The viewpoint of researchers concerning the evolutionary and environmental stability of coral reefs has changed dramatically over the last five decades. This is to be expected; coral reef ecology is a relatively new science. As more information is gathered, the previous assumptions and preconceived notions are being shown to be incorrect. This conceptual change has resulted from a tremendous amount of reef research, most of it within the last 15 to 20 years. Scientists now know that not only do corals and coral reef organisms tolerate changing conditions, they may REQUIRE changing conditions for good health.

The implications of this “sea change” in the viewpoint about coral reefs has not percolated through impervious layers of mythology and mythinformation that surround the reef aquarium hobby like a concrete cocoon. When they do – or if they do – aquarists should expect some changes.

They would find there is no reason in the world to keep temperature and salinity in a reef tank stable. In nature, temperature fluctuations of several degrees (Celsius or Fahrenheit) on either side of the average reef temperature of 82º F are normal and of no consequence. They are of no consequence in aquaria as well. The corals “know” this; it is evolutionarily encoded in their genes. Hitherto, most reef aquarists have not been as knowledgeable. Obviously, expensive controllers and chillers are by and large unnecessary, advertising hype to the contrary. Likewise, salinity can vary a bit. Keeping it in the range of 36 to 37 psu is prudent and minimizes the stress on the animals, but some slight variations outside this range are inconsequential.

A Bit Of Foreshadowing…

In my next article, due to be published here in January, 2006, I will discuss how aquarists can use the toleration or, better, the need, for environmental variation in coral reef animals to their advantage in the husbandry of these animals.

References Cited:
Birkeland, C. E. 1982. Terrestrial runoff as a cause of outbreaks of Acanthaster planci (Echinodermata: Asteroidea). Marine Biology (Berlin). 69:175-185.

Brown, B. E. 1997. Adaptations of reef corals to physical environmental stress. Advances in Marine Biology. 31:221-299.

Grassle, J. F. 1973. Variety in coral reef communities. In: Jones, O. A. and R. Endean. Eds. Biology And Geology Of Coral Reefs. Vol. 11. Biology 1: 247-270. 1973.

Fagerstrom, J. A. 1987. The Evolution Of Reef Communities. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Publishers, New York, NY. 600 pp.

Fairbanks, R. G., M. N. Evans, J. L. Rubenstone, R. A. Mortlock, K. Broad, M. D. Moore, and C. D. Charles. 1997. Evaluating climate indices and their geochemical proxies measured in corals. Coral Reefs. 16, Suppl.: S93-S100

Highsmith, R. C. 1979a. Corals, The Inside Story. Ph. D. Dissertation. Department of Zoology, The University of Washington, Seattle. 322pp.

Highsmith, R. C. 1979b. Coral growth rates and environmental control of density banding. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology. 37:105-125.

Kleypas, J. A., J. W. McManus, and L. A. B. Menez. 1999. Environmental Limits to Coral Reef Development: Where Do We Draw The Line? American Zoologist. 39:146- 159.

Newell, N. D. 1971. An outline history of tropical organic reefs. Am. Mus. Novit. 2465, 37 pp.

Odum, H. T. and Odum, E. P. 1955. Trophic structure and productivity of a windward coral reef community on Eniwetok Atoll. Ecological Monographs. 25: 291-320.

Wood, R. 1999. Reef Evolution. Oxford University Press. Oxford. 414 pp.

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Reeflections:
A Three Foot Square Challenge By: John Laurenson



It is an honor to be featured in the Reef Hobbyist Online Reeflections Column, especially considering I’m following reef keepers like JB NY, steveweast, and others. I often visit their Web sites and envy their tanks. I often sit in awe when I read and see the effort and thought they have put into their systems. My little reef tank covers less than a 3-foot square piece of floor in my condo and doesn’t seem comparatively worthy.

The tank is a 45 g ½ barrel shaped tank as shown below. The stand and hood extends from the floor to the ceiling, curved to match the tank, and has been made to look like a wall extension. The stand and hood are covered with aluminum laminate. All support equipment is compactly installed either under or above the tank.

Being an engineer and a “Rube Goldberg” inventor, I love tinkering with new ideas and tweaking old ones. I continue to modify my reef tank support system in an effort to make it easier for me to maintain a clean stable environment for reef life with minimal daily input. I frequently need to leave my system unattended for a week at a time.


Reef Tank under heavy actinic lighting.


For additional details about my system not shown here can be viewed on my Web Site.

Transitions in thinking...



I set up my system about 2 1/2 years ago. This was my first real attempt at salt water but I had a lot of preconceived filtration ideas carried over from freshwater aquariums. I decided the best approach for processing waste biologically was to do it inside the tank substrate.

I designed a DSB plenum system that was more responsive by allowing regular wasting by flushing to the drain. I called it CPW (controlled plenum wasting) to describe it. The concept was to stimulate bacteria growth within the DSB so that waste could be more efficiently processed and keep the DSB from going sour. Many reef keeper have had great success using DSB’s, I did not. After about a year it was becoming difficult to keep SPS when using this process because of phosphate and nitrogen waste being released back into the water column and nuisance macro algae growth was difficult to control. Later, when I removed the DSB, it showed heavy calcium clumping and several large black anoxic pockets. Flux from the substrate may have caused my SPS coral to RTN.

After a number of months fighting excess nutrients, I started to believe that exporting waste (detritus) before it started to biologically break down made more sense. Also detritus exporting is more easily accomplished without substrate in the tank. After a lot of thought, I spent two days changing the system and applied some different waste export methods. I also pick up a tinge of humility in the process. Following are several methods describing what I have found that seems to work well on my system for the last 18 months in keeping excess nutrients under control with minimal effort. I am sure many reef keepers will find my support system and filtration export methods interesting and maybe even a little controversial.

My present approach to exporting waste...

1. Heavy Short Pulse Circulation - To reduce energy consumption from a large pump running all the time, I use a high flow pulse recirculation system. Every 6 hours for 15 minutes a high flow rate pump is turned on giving over 50 times turn over per hour. Virtually all detritus on the tank bottom is put into suspension by the strong flow rate so that is can flow into the filter. It has eliminated my need to manually remove waste off the bottom.

2. Fine Bubble Flotation Filtration - During heavy pulse recirculation an air pump is turned on diffusing air near the pumps inlet for 2 – (1 minute) periods. The air injection floods the tank with fine bubbles for a few minutes. The bubbles attach to floating waste particles and assist in floating out the waste and exporting it to the over flow weir. The fine bubbles also causes the SPS coral to release a lot of slime as the bubbles attach to it and floating it off.



3. NPR - (Nitrogen / Phosphate Ranching to stimulate phosphate and nitrogen laden bacteria growth for exporting) I regularly dose small quantities of vodka, ½ ml per 25-gallon tank capacity, which supplies a clean carbon source that promotes bacteria growth. As the bacterium biomass grows, by using excess nitrogen and phosphate nutrients, the floss and skimmer remove it.

4. Filter Floss Exporting - The vodka is dosed into filter bags which is filled with filter floss. A highly concentrated bacteria slime bloom grows within the floss after a few hours as it is fed by the high waste laden water flowing through it. The bacteria slime starts to die and slough off in about 24 hours, so I remove and replace the bacteria laden floss 8 hours after dosing vodka. The floss removed is loaded with bacteria slime. Floss is never kept in the system more than two days so that it does not become a nitrate factory.

5. Vodka dosing is done daily, until P is non detectable in the water column and/or nuisance algae is eliminated, and then less often to maintain low P. This helps me to maintain low phosphates throughout the system and it also keeps the tank nuisance algae free.

6. An over sized skimmer is required to keep up with bacteria removal when dosing. I modified my ER to improve performance. It works well and removes nearly a gallon per week of black goop that drains into a gallon milk jug.

7. And just as important regular semi weekly 25% water changes.

My basic maintenance has been reduced a 10 minute job every other day; feed the fish, clean the tank front, dose vodka, and remove dirty floss. Once a week I empty the gallon jug and clean the tank with a magnetic pad. Everything else is automated with my computer and X-10 controllers. Hopefully I will never need to rebuild the system again. I have had to leave the tank unfed and unattended for over 5 days with no adverse affects.

In reef keeping, every system is unique with it’s own demands. The bioload is different for every system. There is no single best way to keep a system. I don’t advocate anyone use my methods. They are detailed to stimulate thought. The often bantering conversations on the Internet’s reef keeping forums with other members has given me an advanced degree in reef keeping in a few short years. I am continuously amazed at the depth knowledge of many members. Give me another 10 years and I might get my PHD in reef keeping.

Support Equipment

Stand Construction - Plywood construction using 2 sheets 3/4” plywood glued to make a 1-1/2" structure. Plywood inside is covered with plastic laminate.

 

  


Lighting - DIY Hood and reflector:
(2) DE 250 watt Metal Halides(10k: 9am - 4pm and 15k: 8am - 8pm)
(2) 75 Watt 24” actinic VHO (7am - 12pm)
(2) LED moonbeams - on 24 hours



Filtration - Modified Berlin: Liverock, Bare bottom
1. Modified ER-5-2 Skimmer that runs 24/7
2. Nylon mesh Filter bags in sump
    a. bag #1-1 Cup of carbon w/ Floss on top
    b. bag #2-1 Cup of Zeolite rock w/ floss on top
3. Periodic Vodka dosing
    a. 1 ml of Vodka dosed into filter floss daily
    b. Floss removed within 12 hours and disposed of
3. Strong Pulse recirculation to re-suspend settled detritus
4. Fine bubble air injection to float detritus to surface, feed SPS and softies, and remove excess SPS slime

Circulation
1. Continuous 350 gph into tank over flowing into sump
2. High rate closed loop– 2000 gph,
3. Closed loop is pulsed for 15 min / 6 hours

Inhabitants - ...too many
Yellow Tang, Purple Tang, Lawnmower blenny, Long Nose Hawk, Clown Wrasse, Copperband Butterfly, Flame Angel, Betta and a Mated Pair of Percula Clowns that breed once a month.


Water Parameters

Temperature: 79 degrees F +/- 2.0
Salinity: 1.026 or 35ppt
pH: low 8.1 high 8.3
No3: undetectable
No2: undetectable
NH4: undetectable
Po4: barely detectable
Ca: 450ppm
Alk: 11 DKH
Mg: 1300ppm

Other System Components

Sump: 15 gals
Pumps:
(1) Dolphin AmpMaster 3000 closed surge recirculation
(1) Sedra 9000 Needle Wheel Skimmer Recirculation
(1) Sedra 3500 Skimmer feed
(1) Sedra 5000 Tank feed
Calcium reactor:
(1) C-1502 KORALLIN KALKREAKTOR
(2) pH CO2 controller



I use low energy fans for evaporative cooling. The fans evaporate about 2.5 g per day. I make up this water by adding RO/DI water through a Calcium reactor and Kalk reactor set in series. The 6.5 ph Calcium Reactor out put runs through my Kalk reactor to increase pH and pick up additional calcium in the process.

This allow me to use a single industrial stainless steel needle valve to control the RO/DI feed water to about 1 drop per second. It maintains a very consistent drip rate, very stable calcium and alk, and keeps up with calcium demand. The tank pH stabilizes around 8.3, calcium around 450, and Alk 10 to 12.

Skimmer:
(1) Modified ER 5-2 made external
(2) Sedra 9000 pinwheel recirculation added
(3) 18” by 6” dia cast acrylic extension added



Kalk reactor DIY – Holds 7 days of Kalk powder:
(1) Feed output from Calcium Reactor
(2) 6.5 pH input
(3) Auto mix every hour

Phosphate reactor - Rowaphos media

Water Temperature control:
(1) fan sump
(2) fan tank top
(3) fan ceiling exhaust
(4) controlled by tank water temperature controller set 79 F

RO-DI unit - 5-stage unit that produces 75 gal/day
Pump and Light Controller - X-10 Computer program on MAC

A 25% water change is made every two weeks using Reef Crystal Salt, which has increased calcium and trace elements. No additional additives are added to the system other than some magnesium pellets in the Calcium reactor.

Cleaning the skimmer:
Once a week. The skimmate drains into a gallon plastic milk jug, which fills up about once a week.




Feeding:
Feeding is normally performed every other day and consists of various frozen mysis, brine shrimp, plankton, squid, oysters, dry plankton, dry flake algae, Cyclops-eeze, all enriched with Reef Plus amino acids. I use a very simple feeder which allows dry and frozen food to be released over 15 minutes. It is made using a plastic medicine bottle. It has two 1/4” holes drilled into the cap, the bottom cut off and turned upside down. It is attached to a weighted holder that allows it to sit on top of the tank with the cap extended into the water.

Humidity and heat control:
The tank stand is enclosed and extends to the ceiling. A quiet bathroom fan is installed in the ceiling, which ventilates the stand 24/7 of heat, humidity, and skimmate odor.

Inspirations that got me into reef keeping...
When I was a 9-year-old kid in Chicago the milkman (milk use to delivered to homes) gave me a 7.5 gallon aquarium with a couple of guppies. After a few months I lost interest in the aquarium and hide it in the corner of the attic, with water and the fish still in it. A few months later on a cold winter day I looked into the tank with little water remaining and saw my two guppies and a bunch of little guppies. I have been hooked on aquariums ever since and had at least one aquarium set up wherever I have lived for a long time.

Like many of us, I have been drawn to these fascinating containers of water with life like a magnet. From a couple of guppies, to dozens of different tanks raising tropical fish, to building a Koi ponds that flowed thru my home and office, to trips to Japan to stock them, to diving on reefs off my sailboat, to a reef tanks, and always dreaming about a bigger and better natural looking pond or reef tank. If they had an AA group (Aquariums Anonymous) I’d be a charter member.

Favorite coral & fish
Favorite fish... The first fish I bought for my tank was from PetWorld , a common Yellow Tang. Since then it has grown from the size of a quarter to 6” across. He's boss of the tank or maybe she’s the boss of the tank. For two days to a week he will beat the h#ll out of any new addition to simply say, “I run this tank and don’t forget the pecking order”; then he quickly becomes everyone’s best buddy again. He even tries to join in when my Clowns mate.



Favorite coral... I have been bitten with the SPS challenge.



Future Plans
My little taste of the ocean is enough for right now, but like all reef keepers it doesn’t stop me from always dreaming about a bigger and better reef system design.

In your mind, what does Ethical Reefkeeping mean and what roles do we all play as hobbyist?
Ethical Reef keeping starts by learning to keep whatever you purchase alive, progresses to enjoying the propagation marine life and hopefully moves on to a higher appreciation and new respect for the ocean’s reefs.

Any advice for others?
Read every book on the topic you can.
Monitor and become involved in the numerous reef-keeping forums.
Find Web sites that have the most beautiful reef tanks and copy the best ideas and methods of those that have succeeded.
Join a local club and ask for help.
Don’t be discouraged with failures or mistakes; everyone with a reef system has made them and most more than once.
Be patient, you will hear this said a hundred times, “nothing good happens quickly in a reef tank”. It’s true...except for maybe a water change when things start to go wrong.
Rather than spend money on additives, spend it on salt and an RO/DI system to do regular water changes.
Think of your tank as a big black box. What ever you put into has to be removed or it will eventually become unbalanced. If you don’t keep nutrient imports and exports balanced, the system may fail.
Enjoy and have fun...it’s only a hobby.
And most important, if you get a chance, be a “milkman” in some kids life.



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